Question about Audi Cars & Trucks
Hi, i had total brake failure and found a leak where hose goes in from the top and meets caliper. I fixed the leak and went through the bleeding proceedure, i got fair pressure on pedal and kept topping the fluid up. All wheels done so i went to test brakes, my foot went to the floor and brakes did not work. We had to top up nearly a bottle full and lost the fluid. No sign of any leaks, is this a master cylinder failure????
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
In my experience with Audis, after any job requiring changing/draining the coolant the car ideally needs to be driven. With the coolant topped up to max drive the car, keep the revs up and shake the car with steering and over bumps where possible. Whatever you do make sure you take at least 2 litres of water/coolant with you, as as soon as the air lock goes, the level drops a lot and quickly. Also keep an eye on the temp gauge and avoid letting it go much over 90 degrees (over 90 on the gauge usually means its well into the hundreds) When you get consistant hot air through the heater, at idle, the level should of settled. If this doesnt work you may have thermostat issues or a blockage. Good luck, let me know how you get on.
Posted on Mar 26, 2009
hi check behind the light assembly itself could be its not earthing out due to corrosion your mounting screws are your earthing point it only takes water getting in behind to cause this hope this helps
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
if hinges are in good order, then ,with the door ajar "adjust" by grabbing hold of the bottom of the door edge and lifting upwards a little at a time to get correct fit,a common problem with heavy doors nowadays....
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
If Theyre Lucas brakes there is located on the back side of the caliper two hex bolts I think 10 or 12 mm.
You have to remove these screws and pull the bolts out.
Should be one on top and one on bottom.
They might have a rubber plug that covers the hex indention in the screw.
Theyre located by the accordion looking rubber boots behind the calipers
Posted on Dec 04, 2010
SOURCE: I am changing my fron
For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow:
1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease).
4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier.
5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston.
6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary!
7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing.
8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward).
9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier.
10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm.
11. Install both caps.
12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!
Posted on Feb 21, 2011
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