Having a hard time finding my bleeder zerk for my clutch. think i found it on driver side up by where the lever comes out of the cab to firewall, but not sure. dont want to strip it either, know what size them are???? and how do I drain/fill 90 wt in the tranny???? cant find the plugs... any help would be downright praised!!!!!! Leaded in north idaho...
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Hopefully, you can increase the size of the image below. I think the bleeder valve is the tube labeled 9. You would have to loosen the cap, have a helper press the clutch down so fluid comes out the tube, then quickly put the cap back on. Looks like it's near the transmission area. Can you get to it from underneath without removing the cab? Can't imagine you'd need to remove the cab.
I recently had a problem bleeding a slave cylinder. Took many tries, finally had a helper stab the pedal down a few times until fluid spurted out the bleed hole. once I got a good flow out the bleeder, the clutch started working.
You have all new parts, so it should be working. Are you certain it was put in the correct direction (the clutch disc, I mean)? And do you see a good flow from the bleeder? Watch the pin on the slave where it comes out to move the clutch lever. When the clutch is depressed, the lever should move a small but significant amount.
Adam: fill the slave cylinder resivour with fluid attach a bleeder hose to the port have someone pump the clutch pedal u ntil fluid runs thru without any air bubbles in it depending on the amount of air in the line and NO other leaks this may take a few fills.
Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm.
Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it.
There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.
I think you will find that the mechanical control which changes the air flow from cold-hot-aircon has come off. I'm not familiar with your particular vehicle but usually the dash lever control is connected to a wire or lever to each air duct. If one of these is not connected then the duct will stay in the position where it was at when the control wire. lever came off. A good place to start.
Not a real big deal , except there is an extra bleeder that is difficult to find. When the line leaves the master cylinder it travels behind some comedic covers on the firewall, follow the line from master c till it intersects with a block. Sometimes the extra bleeder will be directly on the block and sometimes it will be at the end of a line near the passenger side headlight that is connected to this line. So now that you have found the line i would do a gravity bleed first . Fill the resevoir and open bleeder at transmission. When it runs clear ( no bubbles) close it. Now bleed the accumalator block the same way. make sure the resevoir is kept full all the time. Now have someone pump pedal slowly and with full strokes 4 times. crack the block bleeder first while the pedal is being held to the floor . Then close it making sure the pedal is not released while bleeder is open. repeat procedure on slave bleeder and on block bleeder till trans will go in gear with the engine running smoothly.
Remove the fluid line, then go inside cab at clutch pedal remove linkage that connects master and clutch pedal. Remove bolts that hold it in place and remove unit. reinstall in reverse order and bleed system at clutch slave by opening bleeder then pushing clutch pedal down and holding until bleeder is closed. repeat until solid fluid comes out, then with bleeder closed pump clutch pedal three times and open bleeder to relieve any left over air.
There is a slave cylinder on the side of the transmission that has a bleeder screw in it. You'll need to pump the clutch pedal 4 or 5 times and hold the pedal down, while someone opens the bleeder valve, any air in the system will come out. Repeat this process until no air or air bubbles comes out of the bleeder screw.