Question about 2002 GMC Sierra 1500
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
remove cover.take off back wheels and calipers (or drums).turn differential to where you see small bolt/pin (5/16) horizontally (same direction as axles)on right side of differential.remove bolt/pin.A large pin (about 5"long 3/4"diameter) should slide out differential with ease ( you may have to tap one side of the large pin).turn differential to completely remove large pin.turn differential so you can see in the view window.push each axles in (they'll go in about 1 1/2"each) You may hear one of the axle C-clips fall.If not use a small telescoping magnet to remove the C-clips from the axles through the differential window.pull each axle out about 10"so they are out of the diff.Now remove the cap bolts(4-5/8"bolts) and remove the caps(mark the caps so they go in excactly the way they came out.be careful the diff might fall out.If not you may have to use a long bar or 2x4 to wedge and pry the differential out. Have a basket/crate w/rags in it to catch the diff.TIP:If you are removing the ring gear from the diff, the bolts are left handed bolts meaning you have to turn them clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten ; )
Posted on Sep 15, 2009
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Defrost is the default position. Is the control a autyomatic temperture control unit? ( you set the temp and select automatic) if it is the system is completely electronic. You push the buttons and the control still says defrost or can you select something else and the control shows it but it just keeps coming out the defrost? If the control changes and the air comes out the defrost anyway and the cheack engine light isn't on, then the problem can be blown fuses or an air door actoater not working. Does the dash emit a clicking sound? if it does with the covers off the bottom of the dash reach around touching the different pieces till you touch the idem that is clicking. this is an acutor motor, or blend door motor. they have gears in them that wear out and break the motors aren't repairable and you just replace the ofending motor. the door that is moves can be stuck. and may have to be freed up with blaster, WD40, or other rust buster till it moves easy. maybe after getting the door to move smoothly you can get the old motor to move the door wiithout having to install a new one.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
The switch or the wire harness at the blower motor has gone bad. The highest setting 5 has no resistor, so the blower runs on high but the high current flow ends up burning up the switch's contact on that setting or the resistor wire harness at the blower motor has gone bad. Common would be the switch it self, if the switch is good. Then it's going to be the wire leads at the speed resistor by the blower motor under the glove box by the passenger leg compartment. Keep me posted, be glad to help you get your Sierra running 100% again soon.
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
The blower motor is on the passengers side under the dash.You might have to remove the a lower panel.This is the insulator panel.If the blower works at all just turn it on and follow the noise.Hope this helps.Good luck.
Posted on Apr 08, 2010
If noise is come from front end, and your truck is not moving at a stand still, it's going to be your ball joint's, bad news, if there OE there will be no grease fitting. New ones will come with grease fitting for future lube jobs on ball joint's.
Posted on Jul 19, 2010
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