Question about Ford E250
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Go to this site and pick owner guide on left task bar. Input your vehicle info then pick get owner guide.Then pick owner guide 1st printing and your fuse info begins on page 104
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
its a 2-3 Shift valve. ball it i have picture
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Save your money, the chip is a ohm resistor at Radio Shack for under $2.00. It splices in to you IAT wire harness located at the intake tube between the air filter housing and throttle body.
Problem with this system is, that you can not adjust anything and have to run a constant 91 octane just to make sure you do not have a Detonation. The ECM will catch the Detonation from the knock sensor and compensate for it by retarding the timing which in turn lose of HP till next start up.
If you like and don't mind the check engine light on once and awhile, you can do the same by just disconnecting the IAT wire harness which give the ECM a 0 resistance thinking it's -20 out side and turn the timing up and lengths the injector pules.
When i was running a Nitro in the Toy before i sold it, i had installed a 10K ohm Potentiometer which you can buy at radio shack for under $5.00 i believe, I just spliced it in to the IAC wire harness so if i wanted to play with the Nitro I'ld turn the resistor up making the engine think it's 185 degrees F and would ****** the timing so i would not hurt the engine. But if i wanted to get more timing i would just turn the knob to drop the resistance to get more time since the engine thinks it's -20 out side.
Hope this helps. Keep me posted if you need more info. Best thing is to do a dyno tune and you can change everything right down to the Shift points.
Posted on May 29, 2009
SOURCE: Fuse Panel Diagram
Here is the physical layout http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc270/anubiscycle/?action=view¤t=e350-1.jpg And here is the positions labeled http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/cc270/anubiscycle/?action=view¤t=e350-2.jpg
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
The bulbs have to be checked first. it's bad to ck something just to find the bulbs bad theres a fuse in the dash panel but its numbered and the location is buried in the owners manuel, The next trick to find a blown or missing fuse is to pull and replace them all one at a time by looking at them. A easy blown fuse may not look blown therefore turning the key on and probing the (tips) of the back side of the fuse with a test light ( an ice pick tool with a clear handle that has a lenght of wire with a clip on the end to bitea metal ground to ( see ) the power) All auto parts sell them and many dept. stores, name" 12 volt test light" Lets say all the fuses are good and it still doesn't work with good bulbs. On the side of the transmission where the selector shaft enters the transmission (that's where the cable from the gearshift hooks to the transmissin) is the park neutral safty switch it is also called the backup light switch, or selector switch depending if your talking to a parts store the dealer parts department or reading a repair manual. The plug can be dirty,,, Trans leaking just some oil out the selector shaft can wreack these switches. The plug and its wires or wire can be fouled ( road or off road activity ) The back up lights themselfs can get dirty and losse ground but other lights won't work right either. (Jumping ) power with a test lead from say the known hot running lights to the wire that powers the backup bulbs may find that it works that way or its shorted and sparks your test wire and maybe even blows the run fuse. touch quickly just to see. The wire goes to the switch on the side of the transmission though the switch ( when in reverse ) Adjustment being right to a power wire that comes hot with the key. All wires at the switch are cold with the key off and two are hot with the key on and one more comes hot turning the key to start. This is right on most all cars and trucks since the begining og backup lights 50's cars and older didn't have them. No power at the switch key off to on your back to the fuses or the ingtion switch itself but if the key switch were involved other things won't work too I guess that everything eles works, Some trailor package trucks have a separate fuse panel. The fuse pnel locations are in the owers manuel All data, Mitchell ondemand, and most good repair manuals like the ones most auto parts have in stock, They mostly tell where to look too. After that your looking to trace the wires that power the switch or the wire that goes to the back of the truck. When you find a wire that becomes hot (test light check) when put in reverse, that wire is the one at the tailight and your previous test said the lights will come on with power added and their not shorted, run a jumper wire from the switch to the ight wire found at the tailight if it works right like that cut the old wir and add a new one where the test wire worked Someone could have added or even ford could have put a backup beeper that failed some way and it blows the fuse even though the lights are good. Trailor connectors added sometimes the installer cut the wire not knowing what it does. Taped up and remade wiring for trailors or other asseries need to be checked as most backup light problems I have found are accident or mechanic created other than the trans leaking into the switch, The leak usally causes ck engine lite on no start and other intermitant problems, Codes will be called Park neutral switch failure, No start is more common than back up only problems. If the fuse blows again the wire going to the back is in troble some where and pulling it out or replacing it from known good to the point that you know the lights come on with power is fastest repair.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
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