Question about Chevrolet Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: instructional guide oil change
Check your owners manual for the following info: Engine oil requirements, which would be what engine oil weight is right for your car. It will be #'s such as 5W 30. Use the weight recommended by chevy. The manual will also tell u how much u need. Go to an auto parts store, where u will need to purchase the following: 1. engine oil (they should be able to look up the weight requirement for your car, 2. oil filter, get a quality filter. An easy way to determine that is the weight of the filter. A good filter has a valve in it to prevent oil from draining out when the engine is off. This way when u start the car, u have oil pressure right away. You can also ask for advice on what they feel is a good filter.3. Filter wrench, to remove the oil filter. You can determine the correct size by seeing if it fits on the new filter. Ok, take it all home and: the car should be at operating temperature, either jack up the car or buy a set of ramps to drive it up on so u can get under the car. Make sure the car is supported on safety stands, never go under a car w/ just a jack holding it up. Block the rear wheels front and back so the car can't roll, put the emergency brake on, leave it in gear if it's a standard trans, in park for auto trans. Go under the car to remove the oil pan drain bolt. Be careful as surfaces and oil will be hot. Have a good size plastic pan, or something similar (u can also buy a oil drain container especially made for this) under the car. Remove the drain plug, letting the oil drain for 15 minutes or so, to let it drain completely. The reason u drain it w/ engine hot is to drain the oil quickly and completely, cold oil would take a long time to drain. Remove the oil filter w/ your wrench. I assume your filter is accessed from under the car. A few (not many) allow u to remove the filter from above in the engine compartment. With a clean rag, wipe off the area where the oil filter screws on. Make sure the old gasket isn't stuck on (rare, but it does happen). Also clean the area around the drain bolt. Replace the drain bolt, do not use brute force to tighten it, you want it on good and snug, not loose or so tight you ruin the threads. Now coat the gasket on the new oil filter w/ new clean engine oil, screw on hand tight. Go by the oil filter instructions on the box, usually u tighten til it just makes contact w/ the engine, then tighten one half to one full turn more.
Add the required amount of oil, start up and let it run for a few minutes, check for any leaks. Check your level several times a month so u know how often to add oil. U shouldn't wait 'til its down a quart to add oil, if its down half a quart, top it off. Your engine will reward u with a long life w/ this care (change every 3k miles). Don't overfill ever, as too much oil is bad for the engine, it causes the oil to foam, and u loose your lubrication. Many garages, town and city recycling centers, oil change shops will accept used oil to recycle. Whoa! seems a lot more complicated than it really is! Let me know if u have any questions. countrycurt0
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
If your looking to replace them, wich is what most do today, it is cheaper to purchase a axle with new cv joints than to rebuild them. It is a very simple job in todays cars, remove tires remove lower tie rod , remove nut in center of the rotor and pull wheel assembley to the side hanging from the strut, pull axle out replace the transmission seal, push new axle in. When putting wheel assembley on, use a hydraulic jack on bottom of the rotor to push it to the axle splines and put the new nut on .
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
get ready for some work.you need to remove the master cylinder nuts that hold master cylinder to brake booster.once you remove nuts you have 2 choices remove master cylinder to remove booster. to keep from bending brake lines.or you can leave master cylinder in pull it toward you easily careful dont bend lines .disconnect vacuum line at booster .go inside vechicle to floor on driver side loosen four nuts on floor to booster .disconnect power brake push rod from brake pedal .dont force pushrod to the sides when disconnecting it.remove four booster nuts then remove booster.when in stalling the new booster loosely install four nuts then connect the push rod to the brake pedal .install new clip tighten the booster unit .if you decide to remove master cylinder use inline wrenches on master cylinder to remove lines.also plug the master cylinder brake line holes to keep from losing all brake fluid.
Posted on May 02, 2009
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Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5833579-auto_truck_c_recharge . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.
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