Question about 1995 Chevrolet Silverado 2500
You SHOULD NOT have to replace your ball joints but about every 100,000- 150,000 miles as long as you keep them greased properly. Every year is crazy. Has your truck been wrecked? And make sure you install machined ball joints not pressed ones. They are junk.
I have 231,000 miles on my yukon and should have done the ball joints at 200,000 but i was not in the mood to rip it apart in the winter. So im doing it now. Yes it is a job, but it only cost me for the parts as i do all my own mechanical work. And you DO NOT need a pickle fork i have never used one to do any ball joint or tie rod end. Two hammers one on each side of the joint whack them together and the joint will fall apart. Pickle fork is a waste of money. Don't let anyone tell you different. I would not any of my guys use them at my shop. They are scrap iron. I have the lower rivets to drill on left side, already have the upper one ready to install and right side finished yesterday afternoon. So four rivets to go then ill put left side together and im done with all four ball joints. 94 yukon 2 door 10.50 31's . Next will be putting unbrella valve seals on my 81 chevy 454 not stock. Lifted 9 inches 6 in lift and 3 in body lift. Sitting on 37's its a screamer.
Restoring 71 GMC 1/2 short box 4x4.
Be good, chevytrknut
Posted on May 14, 2012
Many other users are noticing problem issue with ball joints.Always replace original parts instead of aftermarket parts.They dont last long.--------Before replacing ball joints ,i suggest to test and inspect the ball joints:----Click the link below for its procedure:----Upper Ball Joints
inspection and replacement?
How to Test Upper and Lower Ball Joint?
How to inspect Upper and Lower Ball joint?
How to Service Ball Joints on Car?
How to Replace Ball joints?
Lower Ball Joints replacing
on Mitsubishi car?
--------This will help.Thanks.
Posted on Feb 16, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it has not ever been changed it is rivited in and must be removed with a flat sharp chissel or cut off wheel and pounded through. The new one bolts in.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
You will have to get a couple of tools for this job, a "pickle fork" and a pitman arm puller. You may be able to rent or borrow, but you should be able to buy them for about $80. They come in handy. To do the ball joints, jack up the truck and block it. With the wheel off remove the big nut on the inside of the spindle. Wedge your pickle fork between the spindle and control and give it a few belts with a hammer until the ball joint comes outof the spindle. Don't be shy with the hammer. Next you remove the ball joint from the control arm. IT may be riveted or bolted. Grind the rivets off, with a mini grinder. Bolt the new ball joint into the control arm tight and put it back in the spindle. Tighten up the big nut. If you are using a socket or box end wrench when you can't turn it any more it should be tight enough,put your shoulder into it when you tighten. Do your ball joints one at a time. You can use this procedure to remove the pitman arm from the center link. To remove the pitman arm from the steering box, remove the nut first. Hook up your puller making sure it is centered on the steering box shaft and straight with the angle of the box. Tighten the center bolt. When it gets hard to turn with your wrist give the bolt a sharp rap with a hammer. REpeat this until the pitman arm comes off. Put the new one on,they are usually made so that they will only go on in one position on the steering box. Make sure you before you tighten it that you didn't put it on upside down. When you sure it's on right tighten it up. Itshould return to a similar position on the steering shaft as the old one you took off. Reconnect the other end to the center link. Make sure you grease whatever you replace, and get your truck aligned as soon as possible, or your tires will start to wear funny.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
The reason is they are pressed in and you have to press them out with a tool and some have a C clip that has to be removed you can go to schucks or autozone to rent the tool to press out and it has to be pressed back in.
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
SOURCE: Have a 2002 chevy silverado
It is possible that the ball joint is bad, to check you can jack the wheel up 1/2 off the pavement and use a tire iron to lift up and on the tire and watch the ball joint if it moves up and down thats your problem. from a mechanics point of view I would replace both the top and bottom at the same time as this saves labor since you have to tear it down anyway and the upper ball joint should be worn as well. If the ball joint does not move then put your hands on each side of the tire and move it back and forth, if you get movement you will need to get a second person to move the tire back and forth and watch to see where the play is. normally it will be in the drag link or the control rod, replace items as needed and try for free play again, you may find another bad part as well. normally there is more than on failed part. once you have done the parts replacement you can put a scratch in the tire with a nail on each front tire and then with a tape measure measure the front and back of the front tire you will want to get it toed in 1/8 of an inch then go to a tire shop for a alignment. should be around 58 inch's center so front would be 57 inch's and 15/16 this of an inch and the back would be 58 inch's and 1/16 of an inch. hope this helps. If it does please rate and thanks for using fix-ya.
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
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