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How to remove a tool bar - Cars & Trucks

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Posted on Feb 08, 2012

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Remove fan clucth nut, tool doesn't work. nut very tight


you may need what I call a breaker bar. a metal pipe to fit over your ratchet, wrench etc. to give you more leverage to break the nut loose. I've always made my own tool if your talking about the tool with two prongs that slide into holes. and the I just let it wedge itself in somewhere and use the breaker bar to get the nut off

Jul 14, 2012 | 2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

Need serpentine belt layout for 2003 mitsubishi montero


Hi there,

To Remove:
  1. Rotate the tensioner with a ½ in square drive breaker bar until hole A aligns with hole B.
  2. Insert an allen wrench or similar tool to hold the tensioner in position.
  3. Remove the drive belt from the pulleys
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To Install:
  1. Install the drive belt on the pulleys.
  2. Rotate the tensioner with the breaker bar and remove the holding tool.
  3. Verify the belt is properly routed on the pulleys.
  4. Release the tensioner to tighten the belt.
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3.5L Engine


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Sep 16, 2011 | Mitsubishi Montero Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to change the water pump


Solution 1
First of all,you will need the Northstar waterpump removal tool, You can get this from most reputable auto part stores.


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You need to remove the air filter housing and ducting to gain easy access to the pump.

Remove the shield covering the pulley and belt. The belt is easily removed by levering the tensioner pulley.

The water pump is located at the lower radiator hose manifold where you will also find the thermostat.Remove the manifold cover and you will see the water pump.

Insert the removal tool over the pump making sure it is locked in position.You will need to use a breaker bar on the removal tool and turn the tool CLOCKWISE to release the pump (1/4 turn), or if you imagine the breaker bar being vertical, push towards the windscreen of your car,it takes quite a bit of force to unseat the pump hence the use of a breaker bar.

Installing the new pump does not require as much torque as removing the old one.
Tighten the new pump to 73 ft.lbs. making sure it is seated properly before tightening.

Don't forget to clean out the water pump housing prior to installing the new pump and don't forget to include a new water pump gasket and housing cover gasket.

It is also a good idea to install a new thermostat while you're at it.









TIM...........


Dec 03, 2010 | 1995 Cadillac Eldorado

2 Answers

What is the torson bar on jimmy and where can you get the part for it?


1995-2005 Models NOTE: The following procedure requires the use of the torsion bar unloader tool No. J-36202 or equivalent.
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the transmission shield, if equipped.
  3. Install a torsion bar unloader tool to relax the tension on the torsion bar adjusting arm screw; record the number of turns necessary to properly install the tool. Remove the adjusting screw and the unloader tool.
  4. Unfasten the lower link mount nut from one side, then disengage the torsion bars. NOTE: Note the direction of the forward end and side of the torsion bar being removed
  5. Remove the lower link nut from the opposite side.
  6. Remove the lower link mount, upper link mount nut, upper link mount and then unfasten the torsion bar from the frame.
To Install:
  1. Install the torsion bar and support.
  2. Install the upper link mount and mount nut.
    • Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) on 1995-96 models and 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) on 1997 and later models.
  3. Place a jack under the torsion bar to release tension, then install the lower link mount bushing and nut.
    • Tighten the nut to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm) on 1995 models, 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) on 1996-98 models and 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1999 and later models.
  4. Install the torsion bar unloader tool and tighten the tool against the adjusting arm the same number turns recorded earlier, then remove the tool. This loads the torsion bars.
  5. Install the transmission shield, if removed.
  6. Remove the jackstands and lower the vehicle.
  7. Check and adjust the Z height as outlined in the wheel alignment portion of this section.
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Jul 08, 2010 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Instructions on how to take apart a water pump in a 1995 cadillac eldorado


First of all,you will need the Northstar waterpump removal tool, You can get this from most reputable auto part stores.


da8a631.gif

You need to remove the air filter housing and ducting to gain easy access to the pump.

Remove the shield covering the pulley and belt. The belt is easily removed by levering the tensioner pulley.

The water pump is located at the lower radiator hose manifold where you will also find the thermostat.Remove the manifold cover and you will see the water pump.

Insert the removal tool over the pump making sure it is locked in position.You will need to use a breaker bar on the removal tool and turn the tool CLOCKWISE to release the pump (1/4 turn), or if you imagine the breaker bar being vertical, push towards the windscreen of your car,it takes quite a bit of force to unseat the pump hence the use of a breaker bar.

Installing the new pump does not require as much torque as removing the old one.
Tighten the new pump to 73 ft.lbs. making sure it is seated properly before tightening.

Don't forget to clean out the water pump housing prior to installing the new pump and don't forget to include a new water pump gasket and housing cover gasket.

It is also a good idea to install a new thermostat while you're at it.

May 12, 2010 | 1995 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

What tool would i need to remove cylinder head bolts on a 93 ford escort gt


Hi
A cylinder head removal tool is provided for removing the cylinder head from the engine block of an engine.The tool comprises an elongated bar made of tool steel with means for bolting the bar to the cylinder head and for mounting pusher bolts which can be tightened down onto exposed threaded ends of frozen studs holding the cylinder head. As the bolts are tightened down onto the studs the cylinder head is gradually lifted upward free from the studs.
Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Nov 05, 2009 | 1993 Ford Escort 4 Door

1 Answer

How to remove the damper bolt on a 1997 honda


safely raise & support vehicle, lock down flywheel, remove wheel, get a really big breaker bar 1/2 inch drive. a long extension . the apropriate 6-point socket & a jack for all these tools. assemble the socket/extension/breaker bar, set onto the bolt on the crankshaft, support the extension close to the head of the breaker bar with the extra jack stand & use this extra leverage to break the bolt loose by pushing down towards the ground on the breaker bar using the jack stand as a fulcrum. You MUST lock down the flywheel with the right tools for this operation to work. Do disable all electrical before you start this operation to avoid injury from accidental starting of the vehicle.

Nov 03, 2009 | 1997 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Need directions to change my water pump


First of all,you need the removal tool which looks like this.

Copy and paste the following link.


http://www.etoolcart.com/gmnorthstarwaterpumpsocketast7880.aspx


You need to remove the air filter housing and ducting to gain easy access to the pump.

Remove the shield covering the pulley and belt. The belt is easily removed by levering the tensioner pulley.

The water pump is located at the lower radiator hose manifold where you will also find the thermostat.Remove the manifold cover and you will see the water pump.

Insert the removal tool over the pump making sure it is locked in position.You will need to use a breaker bar on the removal tool and turn the tool CLOCKWISE to release the pump (1/4 turn), or if you imagine the breaker bar being vertical, push towards the windscreen of your car,it takes quite a bit of force to unseat the pump hence the use of a breaker bar.

Installing the new pump does not require as much torque as removing the old one.Tighten the new pump to 73 ft.lbs. making sure it is seated properly before tightening.

Don't forget to clean out the water pump housing prior to installing the new pump and don't forget to include a new water pump gasket and housing cover gasket.

It is also a good idea to install a new thermostat while you're at it.

Hope this has been of some help.

Sep 10, 2009 | 1996 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

Vent window repair.


To replace the window seal, you first have to remove the vent window assembly from the door. After it is removed, the nut and spring on the bottom of the window has to be removed. Then remove the glass and frame from the vent assembly frame. Then gently remove the rubber off of the frame and install the new one after you replace the top vent bar seals. Reverse the window removal procedures to reinstall the glass and frame. The top vent bar seals requires a special tool to remove and replace the rivets you get with the replacement seal. You need to replace the top vent bar seal before reinstalling the new vent window rubber. When I replaced my top vent seals, it was fairly easy with my removal/installation tool.

Oct 03, 2008 | 1965 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Crossmember mount nuts


This is what I found it seems pretty good but I am having a hard time removing the broken piece from the rear holder.
Tools and Materials Required

Floor jack, 2-1/2 ton minimum, 4-ton preferred
2 or 4 jack stands, 2-ton minimum
Breaker bar, 1/2" drive
Ratchet, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
4" or 6" extension, 3/8" and 1/2" drive
1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", 3/4" open end and box end wrenches/sockets
Scraper, pocket knife, etc. to clean torsion bar socket in A-arm
Bottle jack, wood blocks, etc.
2-lb. sledgehammer
3/8" or 1/2" diameter drift or hard steel punch or similar tool
Large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar to remove torsion bar socket end seal
Torsion bar tensioning tool
Penetrating oil, as required
Chassis grease, as required
High pressure thread lubricant, as required
Mineral spirits, solvent, etc. as required or desired
Gloves and eye protection
Procedure: NOTE: Always wear eye protection, especially when working under the coach. Be aware that when you loosen/remove any of the hardware or components, a lot of drek will fall out. Protect your eyes. And never, never, NEVER get under the coach unless it is supported securely with appropriate jack stands. Do not get under it while it is only lifted on a jack.

Raise and support vehicle enough to allow loosening of wheel lug nuts, loosen nuts.
With floor jack, raise vehicle at front crossmember until wheels are off the ground.
Support vehicle with jack stands under the front crossmember, and additionally under the frame as the situation warrants.
Remove wheel on whichever side is being worked on.
Apply generous amount of penetrating oil to the torsion bar adjusting bolts and nuts. Let set to thoroughly penetrate rusted bolts. Take a measurement of or carefully observe how far the adjusting bolts are threaded into the nuts. You will need these measurements to approximately reset the bolts for ride height adjustment later.
Apply penetrating oil to mid-frame crossmember attaching bolts. Let set.
Follow the torsion bar to the front, and locate the mounting socket in the lower A-arm. At the front of the hex shaped socket is a soft metal seal cap. You have to remove this cap to be able to slide the torsion bar forward enough to remove it from the rear mount. With the large flat blade screwdriver or small pry bar, pry out this cap. Try not to damage it too much. One or more of the side flanges of the cap may break off and it could get bent up while removing it. It doesn't seem to be too critical, and can be pounded back into shape sufficiently to be reused.
Apply a small amount of high pressure thread lubricant to the threads and end point of the torsion bar tensioning tool. Attach torsion bar tensioning tool squarely on the frame member. Be sure the locating pin is in the guide hole on the top side of the crossmember right over the "pork chop". If your tool does not have this locating pin, be sure to attach the tool squarely on the top of the crossmember.
Tighten any bolts/nuts on the tool to secure it. Turn the center bolt of the tool up into the dimple in the bottom of the pork chop arm. Continue tightening until the end of the pork chop arm is off the adjusting bolt.
Carefully remove the adjusting bolt. This could take some time and a lot of effort. Keep the penetrating oil handy as several applications may be necessary. If it strips or breaks, you'll have to cut it out or burn it out with a torch, and replace it with a new one.
When the adjusting bolt is out, remove the flat nut (rounded with slots on one side).
Turn the torsion bar tensioning tool center bolt counterclockwise to relieve the tension on the pork chop and bar. When the tension is completely off the bar, the tool and bar/pork chop assembly will basically fall apart.
Remove the tool.
Repeat 7 through 13 for the other side, except you don't have to remove the seal cap if you are not removing/replacing the torsion bar. You only have to loosen the bar to be able to move the crossmember.
On the rear side of the crossmember you can see the end of the torsion bar through a small hole in the crossmember. Insert the drift/punch into this hole and with the hammer pound the bar loose until it starts to slide forward. At this point you should probably be able to slide the bar forward enough by hand to clear the crossmember.
Loosen and remove the crossmember mount assembly on the side you're working on. Two bolts and nuts hold it in place. Slide the rubber mount away from the crossmember and remove it.
Loosen the bolts on the other side enough so that the crossmember can be moved. If you are removing/replacing both torsion bars, go ahead and remove the bolts and crossmember mount.
Using the bottle jack and necessary wood blocks, raise the crossmember enough so that the torsion bar can be slid under it. You will have to make sure the bar goes back into the hex socket on the front mount so it will slide through. The old grease in the socket will act like glue, so you may want to loosen it up with penetrating oil or mineral spirits or some other solvent. Slide the bar through and out of the socket. It weighs 25 or 30 pounds so don't let it fall on your head. Remove the bar and yourself from under the coach.
With a pocket knife or other small scraping tool, clean out the old grease from the front hex socket. Use a solvent to remove all the grease, if desired. Clean the old grease from the hex end of the torsion bar.
Reshape the socket seal cap if necessary. Test fit it into the socket, but don't pound it into place yet.
Examine the threads of the adjusting bolt and nut. If they look okay, clean them up with a wire brush. Dress them with a die and tap if you have these tools. Otherwise, the wire brush should be fine. Reassemble them with high pressure thread lube and run the bolt all the way through and back again. Clean the threads again, and re-lube them with thread lube. Leave them disassembled.
Apply a glob of clean chassis grease to the inside of the front hex socket. Be liberal and coat it well. Apply grease over the hex end of the torsion bar.
From under the coach, insert the torsion bar (either replacement or same one) into the front hex socket. Be sure you have the correct bar for the side. Each bar is marked on the end with either "L" or "R". Each one will fit on either side, but you don't want to mix them up. Verify before you assemble.
Installation is just the reverse of removal. Reassemble the bar/pork chop. Tap the bar from the front enough to set it 1/8" or so from the inner surface of the crossmember. Check it at the hole in the crossmember.
Be sure to tap the seal cap back into place.
Reinstall the crossmember mount, and tighten bolts. Be sure to tighten bolts on the side loosened.
Apply the torsion bar tool and raise the end of the pork chop far enough to be beyond where it was originally. Insert the adjusting nut and bolt. Turn the adjusting bolt up to about the same position you observed or measured prior to disassembly. Remove tensioning tool allowing the pork chop to contact adjusting bolt.
Remove jack stands, and reinstall front wheel(s).
Completely lower coach.
Check and adjust ride height as outlined in the Owner's Manual or service manual. Be sure tire pressures are correct and rear suspension is at the correct height ("Travel" position). Use the tensioning tool with the front wheels off the ground to raise or lower the pork chop. Never use the adjusting bolt -- it will strip. No matter which way you have to adjust the ride height, always relieve the tension on the adjusting bolt before trying to turn it.

Jun 23, 2008 | 2004 Ford F250

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