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Clunking noise in rear of hhr

Had to dealer 7 times for this clunking noise, they cant fix it, please help me!!!!

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: clunking popping noise from rear end when tires

the gears in your rear end are probably chipped and broke or need shims

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

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SOURCE: clunking noise from the left rear of 2001 volvo v70

the soud could be coming from the wheel having some loose lug nuts lift the car and see if the tire wigles

Posted on Oct 29, 2009

lesabre1972
  • 474 Answers

SOURCE: have had clunking rattle in rear underside of 1999

I would roll your window down while the car is parked and then rock the car side to side and listen for the noise.If the noise is heard you have either one or both swaybar links bad and should have them replaced.If you look under the car you will see a bar bent in a funny shape going from behind one wheel to the other.They are connected to the lower control arm or strut by a rod which is called a sway bar link and if you watch these you will see it kind of jumping up and down.If not these check the front ones also.The bar crossing the car is also monted to the body of the car with a couple of brackets with rubber bushings and these may be worn out also.They jump around when they are bad to and should be replaced if the do.

Posted on Feb 17, 2010

  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: rear clunk noise 2009 lincoln town car

most common causes are rear stabilizer links,or sway bar bushings. also check exhaust hangers(rubber mounts) or heat shields.

Posted on Mar 23, 2010

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: clunking and popping noise when

Is the popping and clunking coming from the rear end? If it is, you might try and find a new shop, a well reputable one. I believe there is a friction modifier you can put in the rear ends to help. If the noise is coming from the front end, could be a ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, pitman arm, control arm bushings wearing out. I would recommend finding a different shop you can trust and you take them on the test drive so you can duplicate the issue. Good luck.

Posted on Jan 19, 2011

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Clunking and popping noise when making turns mostly does it when very cold or rainy days it is limited slip rear end 2001 2wd 1500 the dealer has repaired it 4 times since new problem never goes away


Is the popping and clunking coming from the rear end? If it is, you might try and find a new shop, a well reputable one. I believe there is a friction modifier you can put in the rear ends to help. If the noise is coming from the front end, could be a ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, pitman arm, control arm bushings wearing out. I would recommend finding a different shop you can trust and you take them on the test drive so you can duplicate the issue. Good luck.

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Not sure what the dealer has done so far?
Would look to the struts or control arm bushings.

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1990 camaro Iroc z Clunking noise comeing from borg warner rear


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The LX platform consists of the 300, charger and magnum.

They will all have front end noise. It's just a matter of time. This appears to be a poor design and should be recalled.

The front end should be replaced with energy suspension bushings and greasable ball joints.

The front end needs to be inspected, but here are the usual suspects. Most to least

1. Stabilizer bushings to frame. Rattle and bump sound. Not too expensive.
2. Tension struts - radius arm as some may say. Makes a poping noise and moans when driving and turning.
3. Stabilizer end links if loose to touch. Noise over bumps only.
4. Tie rods. Primarily outer. If you can turn them by hand they need changing. These make noise when braking and turning. Inner is more pronounced when steering. May cause road wander.
5. Upper and lower control arm bushings. Creak!
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I have a chevy hhr 2006, automatic. I have been getting about 27mpg around town/back and forth to work for the past 2 years. All of a sudden, over the past 2 months my gas milage has dropped to 18mpg. no...


Odds are pretty good I know what'swrong... but we'll cover some stuffyou should do first, anyhow.

Check your tire pressure(low pressure is good for 3-4MPG loss)
Change your air filter.(can eat 1/2-5 MPG depending on how dirty/clogged)
Change your oil and oil filter.(going from dino to full synthetic was good for 1/2MPG and a "noticable" power increase)
Get the parts to redo your brakes. pads, and probably front rotors(ours were really **** steel. new rotors decreased stopping distance from 60 by over 10 feet, and they'vealready outlasted the old rotors by more than doublethe milage with no signs of wear).

Here's where i THINK your problem is going to be.
your rear drum brakes.
specifically, either the parking brake adjustment, or a broken spring on the rear drum brakes.
Either problem will cause the rear brakes to drag, signifigantly reducing your milage(and you may not even notice the loss of power or the sound of the drag). Using arear brake repair kit should takecar of either or both of those problems, and return your milage back toa respectable 25+.

Ignore the dealer, and find yourself a decent mechanic to go over the car.
The dealers people just follow the diagnostic directions the company gives them.
We'vehadthe steering column replaced4 times, becausethat's their SOP for drivers side clunking noise.... turned outto be a loose bolt on the front steering stabilizer!

If you want to eek a few more MPG out of your automatic HHR... Get the optional rear spoiler. It's good for around a 1/2 MPG. Lowering the suspension a halfinch(retaining at least 2"ground clearance) will be good for another 1/2 to1 MPG. And finally, change how your drive. When I drive the HHR, I routinely get 30-31MPG. When she drives, the average is closer to 26-28. Most of the differance comes from the fact that I accelerate more slowly, and cruise into red lights. She guns it at starts, and stays on the gas, then slams on the brakes.

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this is from a worn or wrong type shock that was placed on the vehicle and your vehicles tires are hitting the wheel well

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