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Re: my baterry keeps on going dead and i had the...
Here's the key parts of the electrical system. Battery: the source of your electrical energy Alternator: The charging source for the battery. Driven by the engines rotation via a fan belt Regulator: tells the alternator when your battery needs to be charged and how much. The Load: all of the devices that use the batteries energy
If you have replaced the battery 3 times we can rule out the battery as the problem You had the alternator check and it passed. We can rule out the alternator The load: It's fixed and for the most part you can control most of this with knobs on the dash That leaves only the regulator. If the regulator is giving bad info to the alternator that could account for the problem.
Try this ( if you don't have a voltmeter, places like AutoZone can make these measurements) Start the engine and measure the voltage at the output of the alternator. It should be about 13.5 to 14.0 volts. Then measure the voltage at the battery terminals. It should read the same as what you got at the alternator. If it's not,check the battery cables for clean bright connectors. Use a battery terminal brush to clean the. If this still doesn't help check the regulator.
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are you sure you're not leaving any inside lights on inside? if so, check the battery for a dead cell, have the battery load tested. if not that, check the altenator for bad diode. can buy a rebuilt altenator for it. or if you choose, new one for it. just to be sure you cover all bases, check to make sure your altenstor belt is on it. i hope this helps!!
The light indicates that the battery is receiving insufficient charge voltage from the alternator. Take the car to an autoparts store and have the alternator output checked. Most parts stores will do the test for free. Sorry for your trouble and I hope this helped. Best wishes.
I gather the old battery was replaced because it was dead or dying.
Was the battery light on for that one too?
Is the belt around the altenator good?
Cables good? No breaks or frays? Connectors clean and tight?
If you have a multimeter and are comfortable working under the hood with the engine running, you can check the altenator. Black wire to ground (any bare metal surface or the negative battery terminal) There is a single wire on the rear of the altenator. Red to this one.
An alternative: Most auto parts stores have the facilities to do a bench check on your altenator. I recommend auto parts stores over a shop because their ulterior motives are trying to sell parts not service. They are less likely to 'Discover a Problem' that previously had no symptoms.
Also keep in mind, just because a battery is new, doesn't mean it's necessarily good. They can sit on the shelf for months, be dropped, whatever. The auto parts store can also perform a 'Load Check'. Voltage is one thing. A load check simulates the draw of a starter. No black magic, it's either Pass or Fail. Fail means replacement.
YOU NEED TO THAKE YOUR CAR WITH A ELECTRIC SHOP TO CHECK IT IF YOU CHANGE THE BATERIE AND THE ALTERNATOR TO YOU CHECK IF THE ALTERNATOR BRAND CHARGE THE BATERRIE SOMETOIMES WHEN YOU CHANGE THE ALTERNATOR OR REBUILDIT SOME PARTS HAVE PROBLEMS CHECK THE ALTERNATOR AGAIN WITH A VOLTIMETER TO CHECK IF CHARGE BETWEN 14 VOLTS OR 12 VOLTS
Check your Belt Tensioner. If the Belt Tensioner is Not Holding the Belt Tight Enough it will not allow the Alternator to Charge the Battery. Let me know. Please Rate my Solution, I need all the Help that I can Get! Thanks!
Possibly could solve the problem IF the cables are bad. Do u know if they might be original? If they might be, (or almost original) I would replace them, as 25 years is mighty ancient when it comes to cables. Running out of ideas!!!! Keep me posted. Gotta get to work, will check in later.