Re: battery good alternator good could it be pcm on 2000...
Using a volt meter, you need to measure the voltage across the the batt. terminals when the engine is running. you should read near 14.5 volts DC (or more) if the alternator(charging circuit) is working. WARNING be real careful of moving fans,belts and hot parts.
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If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ
1. Dissconec the pos battery cable !!!!!
2. go under car and find starter on bottom of motor..the pos battery cable will be conected to it.
3. remove all wires on starter Note wire positions.
4 remove 2 bolts attaching starter to bell housing
5. remove starter. Install in reverse..
When you go pos to neg from one battery to the next it increases voltage, pos to pos just increases amperage. You would want to wire 2 in series, just imagine stacking batteries in a flash light, pos from one to neg on next. Remaining pos and neg are 12v now. Run both remaining pos to starter and ground both negs. your pushing a lot of amps with the batteries and doing 12v, and your charging system is 12v. If you do another series from there, you have to regulate the voltage when the starter kicks in...you risk burning every light and electric component...just like running 12v in 6v system... You can also use 4 12v batteries and run all pos to pos and all neg to neg and have mega cranking amps...that is how all modern big trucks are set up. Your pushing around 7k cranking amps that way(1500 per battery)...plenty to start the healthiest cat... And don't have the worry of dual voltages or running in series. You really don't need 24v to start and unless you have a 24v alternator, these are your 2 options. Best bet if your not sure is to try with 12v...no risk of frying anything even on 24v system. 24v on 12v system is, on the other hand, a big risk.
Options are a couple things like faulty ignition switch... or neutral safety switch either out of alignment or going bad... what does the car do when you try to start it... because it could also be the charging system ... such as the battery not having enough voltage to start or a bad alternator not charging the battery. You need to ***** the situation and check everything step by step. starting with the battery. if you have a voltmeter, you can set to DC and put POS to + and NEG to - and if it reads 12.5V with the motor off then the battery is charged a dead battery will read 11.8V. Start the car and place the POS lead of the voltmeter to the POS terminal on the alternator (the big red cover) and ground the NEG lead and you should get a similar reading steadily... It should not drop ... if you get a low reading then the alternator is going bad and cannot charge the battery. Next check your starter underneath the car and put the POS to the big terminal going to the battery, It should read a similar voltage. To check that the starter solenoid has enough power you can run a wire with a switch direct from solenoid to switch to battery and try or you can put the POS to the spade connector end and the NEG to ground and have a helper turn the key to start to check for voltage (12V) if not then it suspect a faulty ignition switch... If when you try to start after ensuring a good charge and get a cluck noise with no start or start sometimes then your starter may be bad... If you get nothing at all and your lights and accesories work with 'bright' lights then your starter solenoid may be bad... If nothing happens and the lights dim then the ignition switch may be bad ... If you're not much of a DIYer you can take the car to your local autozone or advanced auto and they do a free alternator and battery check...If they are good then you can remove the starter and have them perform a bench test. Hope this helps... Good Luck.
take a good battery from another car that you absolutely know is good.
Try to prime the motor twice
turn the ignition to start position...do not crank
turn ignition off
turn ignition to start position and try to start
You may have considered this ... arrange a volt/ohm meter like you did the light ... set it up for amps ... there should be some reading ... remove the fuses one at a time, until the meeter reads zero amps. When it gets to zero, you are almost home. Explore that circuit to find your trouble.
Just, Because you removed the battery connections and reinstalled them
will not repair a bad battery conection. Sounds like you have a bad conection at the battery. You'll need to remove the battery ends and clean
them with, a wire brush or a battery cleaning tool. Always, remove the NEG
conection FIRST,then the POS. After cleaning install the POS FIRST,Then
the NEG. Also, I believe there is a small conector on one of the cables.
Be sure to clean that conection also.
You, did not say if the lights are working.
you will need a 8 mm wrench or a 5/16 wrench to remove the side terminals on the battery. you must disconect the neg. first, then the pos.....when putting the new battery in , you must connect the pos. first, then the neg.
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