Question about 1987 Buick Electra

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How to fix my front breaks?

I changed the back two and now the front break pad is completely out on the left side and it scratched up the rotor real bad. I cant seem to unscrew the back piece holding the break together. can anyone help me with what tools i use to change the break rotor,pads,and anything else i dont already know?

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  • 170 Answers

Here watch this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kt2fvHlzv-4

Make sure you replace both your rotors & pads. Don't just replace one side.

Posted on Feb 07, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1982 buick riviera replaced master break cylender stiff breaks

Either your power booster behind the master has failed or the vacuum line or check valve is restricted or leaking.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

  • 96 Answers

SOURCE: Just had breaks/rotors replaced. Car is still

If the car shudders all the time stopping it could be a rotor out of round sometime this happens with new rotors, they should replace them under warranty. But if it is more like abs shudder then they could have damaged a sensor at one of the wheels, the sensors are used for abs and traction control.

Posted on Sep 23, 2009

SOURCE: what tools do i need to change break pads

I assume you may have never done this before. Not on this veh. If you have, you already have the tools. how are you going to push the caliper pistons in to make room for the new thicker pads. What about cleaning of all the hub and pad slide rust. Lubing the right parts with the right lube. Rotors;new or have then turned. Work with us here We need to know you skills to be able to help.

Posted on Sep 26, 2009

  • 118 Answers

SOURCE: change rear break pads on 2000 Buick. Cannot

There's a special tool required to compress the rear caliper pistons. You may want to rent the tool. If you look at the piston you'll see one or two notches. The special tool has nipples to fit these notches. The caliper piston will have to be compressed with the tool and the notches will have to be placed in the o'clock and 6 o'clock for the brake pads to slide over the rotor. If you rent the special tool have the renter show you how to use it.

Posted on Sep 15, 2010

Cyberslave
  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: anti lock break is on.

If you don't own an OBD II scanner go to your nearest Autozone and have them try to lift the ABS code from your vehicle using one of their scan tools. If they can't find it then go to a a repair shop that has a better scan tool, such as GM's Tech 2 or equivalent, and have them lift the codes. The Tech 2 will also enable them to reset the gears within the ABS pump and preform diagnosis on elements with the ABS. The alternative is to get out an Volt Ohm Meter and start checking everything in the ABS system from the wheel sensors to the connecting cables, the relay(s), and even the brake switch on the car. Many times items that are subject to wear and tear such as the brake light switch and the wheel sensors are those most likely to be at fault. However, the scan tool saves you from this drudgery and points the technician to the difficulty. I'd go the scan tool route as I have tried the other with no result and found that after I purchased a Tech ! scan tool the problem, faulty brake switch, was made apparent quickly.

Posted on Apr 01, 2011

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3 Answers

My left front tire is locked up my husband repalced the pads whats wrong


Most likely a warped rotor and with new pads it has locked it's self up.

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How to change brake pads on an Acura TL?


Brake pad i them selves are a fairly easy job. However, to do the job correctly the rotters must be turned on a lathe. If you take the rotors off and bring them to a shop then you should change the barrings, the barrings must be packed with grease and reinstalled all this is simple but takes skill. you can also just buy new rotors and then just turn the old ones at your leasure for use in the future.

But that said,
to change the pads you will need a "C" clamp, a screw driver and some break cleaner. open the hood and take the cover off the master break cylinder. if you can remove some of the fluid. as you depress the wheel cylinder fluid will build up in the master cylinder resivware and over flow, you might be able to catch this with rags. Don't let this get on the paint. You may also need a set of allen wrenches. use the allen wrench to remove the two bolts that hold the break assembly in place, with the bolts all the way out remove the assembly by rocking it back and forth. once off remove the pads (pay close attention to any clips and the position of the pads there could be a difference between the inside and out side, left or right). after the pad are off place the "C" clamp over the puck and slowly tighten until it is all the way in, just hand tight, don't crank hard or fast, take your time. this is the easy part. after it is in remove the clamp and install the pads in the revers order mentioned, tighten down the bolts real tight. after all the pads are replaced the brake fluid will look real yucky. and rusty, pump the break peddle and see if you get a good peddle. you should as long as you did not remove the lines. use the break cleaner to clean off any grime or dust on the rotters and pads.

Jul 27, 2014 | 2006 Acura TL

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When I make a left turn only, and break, it sounds like something is rubbing or grinding. If I turn left without breaking, I don't hear anything. No noises when turning right or braking while driv


If the problem is as bad as it sounds, you may be close to parking it until fixed.
Normally, if you turn left, your are "loading" the right side, and visa-versa.
Think of it this way.
Picture a car going fast around a turn. The wheel on the inside of the turn might actually lift off of the ground, it is "unloaded".
With that thought in mind, look closely at the right front wheel. Start with the brake pads and /or rotor ( what the brake pads rub on to stop the car.)
Check the rotor inside and out. A good flashlight will do.
Pull the right front wheel and see if the pads are worn out or the rotor is no longer smooth, but "torn up" on the inside or the outside.
If the pads and the rotor is fine, next look at the wheel bearings.
This will be a bigger problem, probably a shop needs to check this out.

Jan 11, 2013 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

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Frontbrakes


first break the lug nuts loose. then jack the car up on the front of the side you wish to start on. Next remove the tire completely. While looking at the rotor (round thing with the lug nut studs coming off of it) you will see something either on the front side or back side that looks like it is hugging the rotor. That is a brake caliper. On the back side of that caliper there should be two bolt's one on top one on bottom. Remove those bolts. In most cases the part the bolts where going through actually have a sliding action you will want to slide them back away from the rotor. Now pull the caliper off. Use a 4 inch C clamp and put the piece with the threads on it into the cup on the inside of the caliper and the top fixed piece of the C clamp on the opposite side (careful not to put it on anything that can break) slowly turn your C clamp handle until you have backed the caliper all the way back into itself. Now the easy part. slid the old brake pads out and the new ones in their place. Bolt the caliper back on and repeat these steps on the other side. NOTE: make sure when you are done you pump the brakes a few times before you move the vehicle so that the calipers can adjust back out to the break pads otherwise you'll have no breaks at first.

Jul 12, 2012 | 1994 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

Ok when i am driving my car and when i need to apply the breaks they make a almost squealing noise but after i drive for a little the stop any help will be much appriciated


I have same problem; turns out all Honda Accords of this generation (2003-2007) do this. It has something to do with cold brakes and unseated pads, and the first time you stop from medium speed, you will hear a grinding, maybe from the back of the car (i think in my case).
My girlfriend looks at me, and we both wonder what it is, but it goes away in about 1 minute and I've realized it's only when the brakes are cold and it's not a problem. My brakes are basically ok, and there is nothing to fix...
I've done enough reading about this car on the internet, I feel pretty sure everybody's Accord does this, so I stopped worrying about it. A real problem, the sound would not go away as soon as the brakes warm up and seat the pads. After that, the breaks work fine.
If it was worn pads, the squealers will start up and not go away quickly. If it was a worse problem, the sound would grind continuously until fixed.
The two major problems with Honda Accord brakes are: 1) Brake judder at hi-speed medium braking. If you are going downhill, and just want to slow the car a little, if your rotors are getting worn, the steering wheel will give you feedback as brake judder. Hit the brakes harder, it will go away but it's scary and requires the rotors be replaced with a much higher quality rotor than came from the factory, and probably want to use ceramic pads (like Bendix CQ or CT). 2) Back brake pads wear down quickly. I read about this constantly with Accord owners, the EX back brakes are smaller rotors and pads than the front, but the electronic brake distribution system of the Accord will balance brake force between front and back, so the front pads will actually last longer than the back pads! This is very unusual but entirely normal for this car. Most cars are the opposite but that may change as we see new generations of cars with more evenly balanced braking front to rear. Be ready and watch your back brakes closely. Mine were toast at 30k...
I replaced my back pads and rotors, used cheapest new rotors I could find, and ceramic pads, and they have lasted considerably longer than the first set.
I now have 92k on my 2004 and the original front brakes are ready to be replaced. I replaced back brakes at 34k I think, and was very surprised they needed replacement at early, but the new pads have gone almost 60k, but look ready to be replaced sometime this year I think.
I have bad judder on high speed braking, but the pads are still ok in front. Rotors are **** in front and I'll replace with Centric Cryo-Stop rotors, they should last a long time as long as they get put on straight and I don't let anybody warp them with an air gun at the tire shop...
Two other more minor problems to watch for on this car: 3) Inner pads may wear faster than outer pads, because the caliper is on the inside, and forces the outside pads to contact the rotor after the inner pads are already braking. Seems like all Accords do this at least a little. The inner pads are not easily viewed without removing wheels, so it's hard to tell, but if your outer pads look like they are starting to get worn down pretty well, chances are good the inner pads are even more worn and you are ready to replace pads. 4) Pads may wear faster on one side of the car (fronts) faster than the other side. For example many people report driver side pads wear faster than passenger side. And the reasons proposed have to do with fast stopping for right hand turns or freeway loops. The car spends more time being braked in a right turn than a left over time.. But of course, on my car, it seems to be the opposite. The passenger side is wearing faster! Go figure..

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i assume you mean the front pads, because the back are probably shoes..is it both front wheels or just one? if it is the front brakes locking up, its either the hose to that caliper is collapsed or the caliper it self is faulty. if its the rear brakes, its possible they were put on backwards...little shoe goes toward the fron and the bigger one goes toward the back...maybe they were put together wrong..id say if this guy that did your brakes, cant figure the problem out, then he shouldnt be doing brake jobs!

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