I am installing a push button ignition in my car. The key lock cylinder has worn down so this is my alternative to around $150 new one. I am running the wires from the ignition switch to relays and switches, 3 relays, 2 toggles, one momentary push button. There are 2 accessory wires on my cavalier one orange, one brown, the orange on stays closed during the crank cycle, it operates blower, ac ect. the brown one disengages, opens during crank to start, MY QUESTION IS, how would i get it to open during crank????
the 12v constant along with the 1st orange accessory power, and 2nd brown one will be controlled with one switch & relay this will be ACCPWR. Ill split the 12v const having it go to the RUN relay with the ignition wire, so that i can run the car with out accessory power if i want, the third relay will have the starter wire hooked up with the 12v constant fed from the RUN relay on a momentary switch. How will i get the brown wire to disengage momentarily while CRANK to start????
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Re: 2nd Accessory Power??? Push button Ignition
Like your style but a simple dash mounted old fashioned ignition lock would do the trick then a padlock and chain .if no key chip is used on this vehicle that is ,if so then a hook to hold the key next to the original lock so the transponder can pick it up.All these relays and things are more to go wrong at a later date and not necessary ,Whatever you do make sure the steering lock mechanism is removed so it cannot lock the steering up when turning ,their is only three main cables to worry about power feed -feed to ignition and starter motor hence in the old films they join the wires up to steal a car bit more copmplicated on a modern car with a chipped key it just doesnt happen,a breakdonw pick up truck is used to lift a vehicle and nobody bats an eyelid ,then scrapyard for all the bits to make it run again .Now i know nothing about this but when the shunter driver has lost the key to customers car on the airport parking service -say no more
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Your public library will have a manual covering your mechanical repair. Moreover, they have the automotive shops online software called AllData. It is the best auto technician database available today. You can print out specific troubleshooting procedures, diagrams, step-by-step istructions, and soforth. The typical person cannot afford to pay for this service, just automotive dealerships, etc... that is why the public library made it available to everyone and for free to view and print out material. This should Fixya! Good Luck!
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1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.
2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time. If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.
3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position.
4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the remote transmitter. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. NOTE: Do not press the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.
5. If there are any remaining transmitters (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. Repeat this step for each transmitter (including any existing transmitters).
6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door.
push key switch in hard to start 2nd time (3 reports) ... Our next step is to replace the lock housing assembly or the ignition lock cylinder. ... The ignition switch on my 2008 Ford Escape randomly turns over -- apparently when it feels like it.
Jan 28, 2014 - Uploaded by mosaitogo
Sometimes vehicle would not start when crank/start pos. ...having to push in on the key because the tip of rod is jumping out of switch . .... I currently have my ignition switch dangling down, and I just manually turn it with a screw driver .... Thanks I had this issue since last year with My Ford Escape 2008 but ...
It's actually a really simple fix. Remove the surround from the instument cluster, turn the key to the acc position, and there is a little recessed button on the top of the cylinder, push it in using a suitable tool and the whole cylinder will pull out. Then you pull a retaining clip off back of cylinder and remove old cylinder then install new ignition cylinder install retaining clip that buttton will pop in only when key is turned to accessory on new and old lock cylinders. you will have seperate key for ignition and doors now unless you go to locksmith and have the new cylinder rekeyed with old key. hope this helps ya out
Remove plastic covers surrounding ignition sw. Place ign key into cylinder. On the bottom of the cylinder, there will be a small "button" that you must push in when the ignition sw is placed in the accessory position. Pull switch out with key still in.
remove the steering coloum trim. Turn the key to run position, Press locking button on back of steering coloum housing assembly, Remove lock cylinder, Disconnect the ground strap from lock preload spring ( if equiped ) . Make sure key is still in run position when you reinstall.
If the key is non functional and you cannot turn to run then you will need the tool in this picture
If you look at the bottom of the steering column by the lock, you will see a small hole with a pin in it. Turn the ignition to the accessory position, push the pin in. this will allow the key to turn a little more past the accessory position. Th whole thing will now pull out.
Disable the airbag system, as outlined in the Chassis Electrical Section.
Remove the hush and knee bolster.
Remove the steering column trim covers.
With the key installed, turn the key to the RUN position.
Install a hex wrench into the hole on top of the lock cylinder housing. Push down on the hex wrench to release the tab on the lock cylinder inside the lock cylinder housing.
Push down on the hex wrench to release the tab on the lock cylinder inside the lock cylinder housing
Slide the lock cylinder out of the lock cylinder housing.
Disconnect the passlock and key buzzer from the lock cylinder housing.
Insert into the lock cylinder housing
Release the tabs on the ignition switch using ignition switch connector release tool J 42759
Pull the ignition switch out of the lock cylinder housing.
Disconnect the connector from the ignition switch.
Verify the alignment of the gear in the ignition switch. If gear is not in position shown, turn gear in ignition switch until you reach the correct position.
Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear counterclockwise until it hits a stop. In order to reach a stop while rotating the lock cylinder housing gear you MUST push and hold in the solenoid on the electric park lock.
Connect the connector to the ignition switch.
Insert the ignition switch into the lock cylinder housing. The tabs on the ignition switch MUST be seated inside the lock cylinder housing for proper installation.
Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to the start position—allowing it to spring return into the RUN position.
Use a screwdriver to rotate the lock cylinder housing gear clockwise to the START position
Align the lock cylinder and install the lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing.
Connect the passlock and key buzzer into the lock housing.
Install the steering column trim covers.
Install the hush and knee bolster.
Enable the airbag system, as outlined in the Chassis Electrical Section.