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Three point linkage lift arm jam

Leyland has a release valve in the centre between arms to free the jam but as soon as you move the control lever from low position it goes to top and jams again. any clues ?

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  • yadayada
    yadayada Feb 07, 2012

    I really have no idea what the part is that you are referring to here.

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1 Answer

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 5,370 Answers

Click the link below:---

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/every-question-has-answer.html

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Update it,thanks.

Posted on Feb 07, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 97 nissan sentra windshield wiper linkage arm disconnected

Most likely you will have to replace the wiper linkage from the center pivot to the left or drivers-side wiper pivot. The plastic piece in the linkage gets brittle over time and breaks down. To save a hassle in the future, replace both linkages. It should be under $20.00 for parts.

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: shifter linkage came apart from transmission shift arm

I had the same problem and also linkage inside the car. I took ball joint apart and cleaned the surface then put silicone inside ball joint. Joined the two together then I put plastic tie wraps for wiring around the ball joints, two per ball joint. Let sit for 24 hours and it worked. It is probably temporary but it got me out of a $165 an hour repair job 500 miles from home. Hope this works for you as it tightens up the linkage and worked great. CW

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: How do you get the external linkage arm off an aod transmission.

Just guessing that you have a 5.0 but if not, please let me know....this is for an AOD Tranny removal for an 88 Mustang 5.0L:

Automatic Overdrive (AOD) Transmission

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Place the drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally, remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With the fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  3. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  4. Remove the converter–to–flywheel attaching nuts. place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  5. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolts, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  6. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  7. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  8. Remove the rear mount–to–crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember–to–frame attaching bolts.
  9. Remove the two engine rear support–to–extension housing attaching bolts.
  10. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  11. Remove the two bolts securing the bellcrank bracket to the converter housing.
  12. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  13. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  14. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission.
  15. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  16. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  17. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  18. Remove the converter housing–to–cylinder block attaching bolts.
  19. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  20. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in a holding fixture. To install:
  21. Tighten the converter drain plug to 20–28 ft. lbs. (27–38 Nm).
  22. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  23. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  24. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flywheel. NOTE: Be sure to lubricate the pilot bushing.
  25. Align the yellow balancing marks on converter and flywheel on models with the 8–302 engine.
  26. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flywheel and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flywheel. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  27. Install and tighten the converter housing–to–engine attaching bolts to 40–50 ft. lbs. (54–67 Nm). Make sure that the vacuum tube retaining clips are properly positioned.
  28. Remove the safety chain from around the transmission.
  29. Install a new O–ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the transmission case and secure the tube to the engine with the attaching bolts.
  30. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing.
  31. Connect the oil cooler lines to the right side of the transmission case.
  32. Position the crossmember on the side supports. Position the rear mount on the crossmember and install the attaching bolt and nut.
  33. Secure the engine rear support to the extension housing and tighten the bolts to 35–40 ft. lbs. (47–54 Nm).
  34. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  35. Secure the crossmember to the side supports with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 35–40 ft. lbs. (47–54 Nm).
  36. Position the bellcrank to the converter housing and install the two attaching bolts.
  37. Connect the TV linkage rod to the transmission TV lever. Connect the manual linkage rod to the manual lever at the transmission.
  38. Secure the converter–to–flywheel attaching nuts and tighten them to 20–30 ft. lbs. (27–40 Nm).
  39. Install the converter housing access cover and secure it with the attaching bolts.
  40. Secure the starter motor in place with the attaching bolts. Connect the cable to the terminal on the starter. Connect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  41. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle.
  42. Adjust the shift linkage as required.
  43. Adjust throttle linkage.
  44. Lower the vehicle.
  45. Fill the transmission to the correct level with Dexron® II or Mercon® fluid. Start the engine and shift the transmission to all ranges, then recheck the fluid level.

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: remove front wiper arms. Lift arm, slide out

Just pry them off. Make sure the tab is out the whole way. Sometimes they can be tough to get off. Spray with wd40 it should aid in getting it loose. You could even tap it a few times with a rubber mallet or a light hammer, just be careful. Good luck if this helps let me know.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • 2002 Answers

SOURCE: repair steering linkage

You'll have to rent or borrow a pickle fork and a pitman arm puller. There is more than one size of pickle fork so specify for tie rod ends. You can buy them too, about $100 for the pair and they are not vehicle specific.
Jack and block up your front end so the wheels are clear. Take the nut off the tie rod end and wedge the pickle fork between the tie rod and the drag link, rap with a hammer until it separates. Loosen the bolt on the collar and unscrew the tie rod end. Count the turns when you remove it and screw the new one in the same number of turns.Fit it into the drag link and tighten the collar and the new nut.
Take the nut off the idler arm and use the pickle fork to separate it from the drag link. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame. The new one goes on in the reverse.
You'll probably need an adjustable wrench to remove the nut from the pitman arm,it's bigger than most wrench sets. Separate it from the drag link first. Slide the puller on and tighten it up. Once it starts to turn hard, give the bolt on the puller a rap with the hammer and tighten some more. Repeat until the arm comes off. Slip the new one on and tighten.
Don't be shy when you tighten these parts because if there is play, the holes in the drag link will oval out and you will have to replace it too. Don,t use a pickle fork on the pitman arm or you will have to replace the seal in the bottom of the steering box. Hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a case 2090 that the 3 point arms raise but will not lower. I changed oil and filters, and replaced seals and springs in the vale body but not working yet any ides?


Hi Kelly:
The history as to how it came to stop working will assist in diagnosis.
I'll just go over my "trouble shoot" logic.
Since the arms raise, the pump and ram are working, as are the linkages.
Since they won't go down, I would suspect the linkage from the control lever to the valve spool, or possibly the spool itself.
There are a LOT of links for manuals and forums that will be "hands on" resources.
Here's the connection.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=Case+2090&rlz=1C1GGGE_enCA468&oq=Case+2090&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3583j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Hope it helps.
Cheers

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Back light stays on


If back up light, there is a switch activated by the reverse rod of a manual transmission linkage and on the transmission in the area of the shaft that goes into transmission if automatic. Replace switch as reliable solution. Sometimes they can be tapped with a screwdriver to make them work, but it is a short lived solution.

If it is brake lights, lift the pedal, if it does not correct, follow the lever arm of the brake pedal and feel or look for the pivot point where the actuator rod goes out the firewall into the cylinder- You should have a switch that stradles the lever arm anchored by the same bolt as that actuator rod- try shifting the location of the switch. if it corrects, it may be okay, you may need to loosen that bolt slightly to move the switch, retighten. If it does not correct it, replace the switch.

Jul 05, 2012 | 1999 Nissan Sentra

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Windshield wiper moter went out i need to change it out. how do i change it?


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove both wiper arm and blade assemblies.
  3. Remove the cowl grille attaching screws and lift the cowl grille slightly.
  4. Disconnect the washer nozzle hose and remove the cowl grille assembly.
  5. Remove the wiper linkage clip from the motor output arm.
  6. Disconnect the wiper motor's wiring connector.
  7. Remove the wiper motor's three attaching screws and remove the motor. To install:
  8. Install the motor and attach the three attaching screws. Tighten to 60-85 inch lbs.
  9. Connect wiper motor's wiring connector.
  10. Install wiper linkage clip to the motor's output arm.
  11. Connect the washer nozzle hose and install the cowl assembly and attaching screws.
  12. Install both wiper arm assemblies.
  13. Connect the negative battery cable.

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Installing the wiper arm connecting clip.


tecnovative_159.gif

Feb 25, 2011 | 1992 Ford F250

1 Answer

Where is windshield wiper motor for 1992 mercury grand marquis


1992-98 Vehicles
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the rear hood seal. Remove the wiper arm assemblies by raising the wiper blade off the windshield. Move the slide latch away from the pivot shaft and slowly lower the arm onto the latch. This unlocks the arm from the pivot shaft and holds the blade off the glass. Pull the arm from the pivot shaft.
  3. Remove the cowl vent screws and disconnect the washer hoses from the washer jets.
  4. Detach the electrical connectors from the wiper motor.
  5. Remove the wiper assembly attaching screws, lift the assembly out and disconnect the washer hose.
  6. Unsnap and remove the linkage cover.
  7. Remove the wiper module assembly retaining bolts and remove the module from the vehicle.
  8. Remove the linkage retaining clip from the motor operating arm by lifting the locking tab and pulling the clip away from the pin.
  9. Remove the motor retaining screws and remove the motor from the vehicle.
  10. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

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Fig.: Lift up to release the clips and remove the hood-to-cowl weather strip


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Fig.: Remove the cowl panel-to-firewall retaining clips



Remove the driver's side then the passenger side cowl panel from the vehicle


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Fig.: Detach the electrical connector for the wiper motor

Release the wiper motor retaining clips and remove the cover from the vehicle


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Fig.: Remove the wiper module assembly retaining bolts and remove the module from the vehicle


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Fig.: Remove the wiper motor retaining bolts and ...


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Fig.: ...remove the wiper motor from the vehicle




Hope helps (remember comment and rated this).

Aug 02, 2010 | 1992 Mercury Grand Marquis

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This is a generalised approach for most front wheel drive vehicles.
The front suspension strut needs to be unbolted from the control arm before the driveshaft can be removed.
First off, loosen the driveshaft nut(large nut in the centre of the wheel). These are very tight and usually require at least a 30 or 32mm deep wall socket with a torque wrench to remove. You will probably need some help as the car will move as soon as you put force on that nut. Best solution is have someone step on the brakes or put the car in top gear with the parking brake engaged.(This will not work on an automatic)
With the driveshaft nuts removed put the vehicle on axle stands so that the front wheels are clear off the ground. Do not use 2 jacks or bricks to do this. Be sure to chock the rear wheels and engage the parking brake.
Remove the front wheels. If you forgot to loosen the wheel nuts before jacking the car up, once again have your unfortunate assistant step on the brakes so you can loosen them.
Have a look at the lower control arm (Sort of a triangular shaped arm between the body of the car and the hub carrier. It connects to the hub carrier by way of a ball joint. If you're lucky the ball joint will be bolted to the control arm which is easy to remove, else it has to be undone by way of the single bolt on the hub carrier. The ball joint is difficult to remove at this point and needs a special tool to force it out of its seat. Hammering is definately not recommended and levering against the CV joint can cause damage to the CV.
Once done the hub carrier can be pulled away from the car to give you the free space to pull the outer end of the driveshaft out of the hub carrier. The inner end of the driveshaft clips into the gearbox and can be pulled or levered out with some effort.(hopefully the gearbox has been drained before this point as there may be some spillage of gearbox fluid/oil as soon as the shaft is removed from the gearbox).) Once the drive shafts are free the engine/gearbox combination can be removed. Reassembly is the reverse of removal, but remember to torque the driveshaft nut to the correct setting with a torque wrench. After reassembly have the wheel alignment set.
Hopefully I dont step on any copyright toes. Below is from a Haynes workshop manual.
e8058cc.jpg

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Hello

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