Question about 1997 Honda Accord
You have the fun ones! What you will need to do is remove the knuckle from the vehicle. Remove the axel nut Rmove the caliper Unbolt the brake lines from the knuckle. Seperate the outer tie rod from the knuckle Seperate the upper ball joint from the knuckle Seperate the lower ball joint from the knuckle and remove knuckle from the vehicle. With the knuckle removed you can access the four bolts on the back side that secure the wheel bearing to the knuckle. Remove those for bolts and tap the wheel bearing out of the knuckle. You can then remove the four bolts that hold the rotor to the hub and then remove the rotor. Tip: replace the wheel bearing at the same time. You will probably ruin it when you move it from the knuckle. After reassembly make sure you tighten the axle nut to the proper spec. Failure to do so will cause the bearing to fail! Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
Posted on Feb 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: taking off front rotors
the easiest way is to take off the knuckle loosen the four wheel bearing bolts on the backside of the knuckle and leaving the socket on each bolt use an impact hammer to drive the bearing out then rotate the rotor 1/4 turn and it should pull off. . . you might have to clean up the rust on the bearing with a grinder so the rotor will come off... do NOT take the bearing apart you do not need to. many shops will do this but it is not needed and ruins the bearing as it is a sealed unit not designed to come apart. ( to take the knuckle out take off the caliper and undo the axle nut, top and bottom ball joint and the tie rod end)
Posted on May 24, 2009
Did you cut the rotors or replace them? If you cut them, they are probably too thin. If you replaced them, check their thickness with a micrometer. Rotors will overheat from being too thin.
Posted on May 17, 2009
It's not too hard if you get one with the same features and interior panel. If you have to change the door panel though it's no big deal. Don't go unplugging all the little wires in the door because there is a main plug inside of a rubber boot in between your door hinges: Pop the little pin out of the little holder bar, remove the 12mm bolts that hold the door on. If you don't get help holding the door you can scratch some stuff up. You might have to remove your fender, don't know on this one.
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
You must have what they call "trapped rotors" on your car.First thing is to jack the car,remove the wheel,unbolt the axle nut,remove the calliper and bracket and hang caliper out of the way with a bungi cord.Next look behind the steering knuckle where the axle goes through the hub and from back there you should see 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing hub assembly to the steering knuckle.You will need to remove the 4 bolts and very carfully remove the wheel bearing hub assembly from the knuckle.If the car has the dust shield you may have to remove the 2 phillips head screws to remove the shield and the hub assembly together.(If the car has ABS please be carfull not to hurt the wires going to it these may have to be unplugged and moved also)After you have the bearing assy. out remove the 4 bolts holding the rotor to the hub.Now you will notice the funny shapped hole in the center of the rotor where you can turn it to fit over the flange where you bolt the bearing to the car and there you go the rotor is off. REMEMBER NOT TO HIT ON THE HUB WHERE THE WHEEL BOLTS ON TO REMOVE THE BEARING ASSEMBLEY FROM THE CAR.THIS WILL DAMAGE THE BEARING!!!!!!! Also remember to re torque bearing to proper specs so bearing doesn't get damaged as you drive. (181 ft.lbs.)
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
Usually means a warped rotor or an out-of-round drum -- although it can sometimes be caused by loose wheel bearings, a bent axle shaft or loose brake parts.The faces of a disc brake rotor must be parallel (within .0005 inch on most cars) and flat (no more than about .002 to .005 inches of runout) otherwise it will kick the brake pads in and out when the brakes are applied, producing a pulsation or vibration that can be felt in the brake pedal as the rotor alternately grabs and slips.
You can often see warpage in a brake rotor by simply looking at it. If the rotor has telltale glazed or discolored patches on its face, chances are it is warped. Measuring it with a dial indicator and checking it for flatness with a straight edge will confirm the diagnosis. Resurfacing the rotor to restore the faces will usually eliminate the pulsation (unless the rotor is bent or is badly worn and has started to collapse in which case the rotor must be replaced).
You can often see warpage in a brake rotor by simply looking at it. If the rotor has telltale glazed or discolored patches on its face, chances are it is warped. Measuring it with a dial indicator and checking it for flatness with a straight edge will confirm the diagnosis.
Resurfacing the rotor to restore the faces will usually eliminate the pulsation (unless the rotor is bent or is badly worn and has started to collapse in which case the rotor must be replaced).
Posted on Sep 23, 2011
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