Question about 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
I had my oil changed on my 99 jeep grand cherokee, 10W-30, and driving it home noticed oil pressure gauge sitting at 0. been this way about a week now. What could it be? sensor? sending unit? oil pump? please advise?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
At least you have the 4 liter 6. Once you get all the **** out of the way its like replacing a W/P on an "old school" engine, very much like a Ford or Chevy straight 6. 1) Remove radiator top retainer (the metal U that looks like its the top of the radiator (#13 or 14mm sockets I think). 2) To completely get if off you also have to remove the grill (4-6 phillips screws), then 3) unbolt it from the tubular bumper retainers underneath the grill. 4) DO NOT remove the latch cable - no need. 5) Remove the top bolts holding down the fan shroud. Lift the shroud off its bottom "tabs" and push over the fan. 6) Using #10mm socket remove fan from fan clutch, then remove bolts holding fan clutch onto water pump pulley. 7) Pull out shroud, then fan, then fan clutch. Be very patient, lots of wiggling may be needed. 8) Locate belt tensioner on idler puller below the Power steering pump. Losen very little the pulleys center bolt (10mm), then use a 10mm w/entension to losen the pulley's tension (use counter clockwise/normal rotation to losen). 9) Draw a diagram of the belt routing - you will Never remember it correctly otherwise. 10) Tap the w/p pully and pull if off - do not hit radiator fins! 11) Drain the radiator (clockwise/right rotation opens petoc from factory radiators - counterclock used on aftermaket rads). 12) Remove lower raditor hose at radiator, then at pump (it will be a challenge). 13) Remove upper radiator hose from rad and from thermostat housing. 14) losen the Rubber heater hose from the metal hose screwed into the W/P. 15) Remove 4 bolts from W/P (13 or 14mm I think). The one at the 4oclock position is longer than the others. One is hidden at 6oclock.
16) Remove 2 bolts (14-15mm??) on bottom of Power Steering mount - these go through the W/P case to the block. You may also need to losen the top PS bolts so the PS Bracket can be loose at the W/P case. 17) Wiggle the W/P out from under the PS bracket. and pull off. (16b if needed, remove the upper idler pulley near the A/C unit.) 18) Remove the Thermostat (upper hose return) housing. Scrape off old gasket. Replace with 160deg or 190deg thermostat. Use silicone on gasket. 19) Carefully use a 17 or 19mm box wrench to remove the metal heater hose return line from the upper part of the old water pump. Coat threads with spark plug thread antiseize and screw onto new W/P. 20) Install new W/P gasket w/silcone, be careful to Not block the water holes. 21) Slide W/P under the P/S bracket and jiggle into place. Hand thread one of the top bolts to hold the W/P in place. 22) Insert the P/S bracket bolts and lightly tighten. 23) Jiggle W/P around and insert other bolts, start with the 6oc hidden bolt. Add remaining bolts and tighten to 25 or 250?ftlb (about 3/4 past socket-snug). 24) Tighten ALL P/S bolts. 25) Adjust metal heater pipe. Reinstall rubber heater hose. 26) Reinstall W/P pulley and Fan clutch, and upper idler if it was removed. 27) Thread NEW Belt on pulleys. 28) Tighten tension on idler. Tighten idler axle bolt. 29) Install lower rad hose. 30) Slide shroud over pulleys. 31) Install fan on clutch. 32) Clip shroud retainer bolt mounts back on top of radiator. 33) Install shroud. 34) Connect upper hose. 35) Reinstall radiator retainer. 36) Bolt retainer to Tubular bumper mounts. 37) Reinstall grill. 38) Wonder where the extra bolts etc are supposed to go. 39) Cuss - pray -cuss - pray. 40 ) sip some beer. 41) carefully inspect everything to ensure its back to the way it looked before (several pictures from a digital camera taken during the disassembly will help). 42) Close the rad petok. 43) Add 1 gallons of antifreeze. 44) Start engine and add another gallon of A/F. 45) Turn heater controls to HOT inside (no need for fan). 46) Water guage should show 180 to 210F. 47) Add 1 gallon of water. 48) Install New 18PSI rad cap. 49) Turn off engine and add water or A/F to overflow tank. 50) 1 hour later open Cap to see if level has settled. Add Water as needed to fill rad.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Should be 235/60/15 You can Actually get the BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A to fit on this Jeep with no Prob. LOTS More Meat and Better Handling and 4x4 Actions
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
if you know for certain that the sending unit is correct and the guage is accurate, then yiu may have big problems.....while the engine is running open the oil filler hole.. is everything wet with oil? or does it look dry or just a little lubed? you can allways install an aftermarket oil pressure guage(crappy tire) if you get the same results with that then you may have a week oil pump....worst case scenerio... need an engine rebuild as the moter may have wear issues.does the pressure slowly drop as the motor warms up? at idle ? does it jump up when you step on the gas?
Posted on Mar 30, 2009
The problem sounds intermittent, if you put volt meter on the battery while it is at that 19volt mark/reading(on the gauge cluster) you will be able to see if it is true. If your alternator is really charging over 16volts the lights should be getting brighter then usual and/or they are burning out. Find out ASAP, if the alternator has a defective voltage regulator, it needs to be replaced. Prolong use will damage components.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
There could be two problems here:
1. That buoy floating tank is not working properly
2. That the electrical system that fails to submit the dashboard.
Review this information:
Page 2 - Fuel Gauges description
Page 4 - Voltimeter/Tachometer/Fuel Gauge/Low Fuel Inoperative
Page 10 - Specifications
About Fuel Tank components
Fuel Tank and Gauge & Sensor Units Sending (Page 93 and next)
Good luck... and remember rated this help.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
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