Question about 2000 Volvo S80
Cranks and has fuel psi to the rail, but does not start..
If it has fuel in the rail that doesn't mean the injectors are delivering it to the engine, that is called injector "pulse", this can be checked with a little neon light tool called a "NOID" injector tester, you plug it into the injector connector and crank the engine over, it will flash if the injector is working and ionjecting fuel. The tool is very cheap. The loss of power to the fuses is likely a defective igntion starter switch.
Posted on Feb 09, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The gas filter is located passenger side just forward of the rear axle. The band that holds the gas filter in place is a pinch band that has a nut welded/formed into it on the back/top side. A 12 mm bolt holds the band in place. The top of the band has a bracket that hold the return fuel line - this just pops off and the return fuel line can be reattached once the filter has been replaced. If your filter has never been replaced there is masking tape covering the pinch connections at both ends of the filter. Remove the masking tape. You need to put a pan under the old filter to catch any gas spillage - it will be minimal. Also the new filter comes with plastic caps on the ends of the new filter - you will want to use them to plug the old filter connectors so you need to take them off the new filter to have handy. Ther is a T off the inlet gas line that has a cap on it - remove the cap and press the needle in the T to relieve any pressure that is on the gas line - If it has been setting for an hour there will probably be very little if any pressure on the line. You can skip messing with the T and you will see about an ounce of fuel that will come out of the filter when you remove the hose.
To remove the connectors push the connector ring away from the filter housing. (I did the front first because I had more room). I used a paint can opener to help pry the hose away from the filter - it is shaped like a can opener but without a cutting edge - a large flat screwdriver would perform as well. It is a tight fit but once it starts to move it will come off. Once the hose is off use the plastic caps you took off the new filter to help hold the gas in the old filter. After removing both ends remove the holding band and place it on the new filter. The two lines will go back on easier than they came off, just push them onto the filters nipples. Put the 12 mm OR 10MM bolt back into the pinch band and reintall the return fuel line.
Posted on Aug 18, 2009
if it ran ok before the work its not going to be good,start over check all marks the see if you bent any valve by doing a compression test,does it fife? does it have ful pressure
Posted on Aug 26, 2008
Tricky ... Was the alternator replaced with a 2nd hand one or a new one?
A defective alternator can allow the battery to discharge within a few minutes (the diodes in the rear of the alternator can burn out and cause the problem. The diode pack can be replaced). When this happens recharging the battery only replaces the power in the battery - which drains straight back to earth via the alternator, flattening the battery again - often within a couple of minutes or less.
Does the battery lose its charge when the car is standing or just when the engine is fired up?
If the battery loses its charge overnight, try disconnecting the wiring from the rear of the alternator (also look at the electrical connector that fits into the back of the alternator - look for melting/burning marks which suggest something may be amiss inside the alternator).
Let the car stand overnight with the alternator wires disconnected. Will it start up ok and drive (with the alternator wires still disconnected) the next morning?
You could also try just disconnecting the alternator wires, firing up the car and then driving it -
If the car drives ok without dying out and gets further down the street than it usually does, then it probably is the alternator at fault. The car should drive until the battery drains and has insufficient power to trigger the ignition. You certainly would get further down the street with a charged battery and disconnected alternator than you currently do.
It does sound as though you've had an alternator fault to begin with. If it has been replaced with a 2nd hand unit that unit may also be faulty. Rather than replace parts in desperation, visit an auto electrician's - within a few minutes they will be able to test the battery/alternator output and also identify where the lost current is going. It will be cheaper in the long run to have an auto electrician look at the charging system. It only takes a few minutes.
Posted on Sep 17, 2008
In the past we have used starting fluid to find vacuum leaks. Start the engine, let it idle. Spray quick shots of starting fluid at your vacuum lines in isolated areas. When the starting fluid find the vacuum leak the engine will react to it... usually by going up in rpm. Depending on your engine computer, it may stall the engine. Either way you will find your vacuum leak. Get starting fluid or "ether" at Autozone or O'Reilly.
Posted on Dec 01, 2009
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