Stuck distributor rotor 1995 k1500

Camshaft Position Sensor Replacement (5.0L, 5.7L)

Removal Procedure

Caution: Refer to

Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.

For Vehicles equipped with OnStar® (UE1) with Back Up Battery:

The Back Up Battery is a redundant power supply to allow limited OnStar® functionality in the event of a main vehicle battery power disruption to the VCIM (OnStar®module). Do not disconnect the main vehicle battery or remove the OnStar® fuse with the ignition key in any position other than OFF. Retained accessory power (RAP) should be allowed to time out or be disabled (simply opening the driver door should disable RAP) before disconnecting power. Disconnecting power to the OnStar® module in any way while the ignition is On or with RAP activated may cause activation of the OnStar® Back-Up Battery (BUB) system and will discharge and permanently damage the back-up battery. Once the Back-Up Battery is activated it will stay on until it has completely discharged. The BUB is not rechargeable and once activated the BUB must be replaced.



1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.



2. Disconnect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire from the distributor.


3. Disconnect the CMP sensor harness connector from the distributor.



4. Remove the distributor cap screws.



5. Remove the distributor cap.



6. Remove the rotor screws.



7. Remove the rotor.
   


8. Remove the CMP sensor screws.



9. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.



10. Remove the CMP sensor.
    

Installation Procedure

Important: Do not use the old cap screws, CMP sensor screws, or rotor screws. Use replacement screws that have been coated with a thread locking compound. Precoated replacement cap and CMP sensor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475922 (pkg of 10 screws). Precoated replacement rotor screws can be acquired using P/N 10475924 (pkg of 10 screws).

1. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor.



2. Insert the CMP sensor through the reluctor wheel slot.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.




3. Install new CMP sensor mounting screws.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the fasteners to 1.6-2.8 [n-m] (14-25 lb in).
   

Important: The locating tabs on the rotor are necessary for correct alignment of the rotor. If the tabs are missing or damaged, replace the rotor.



4. Install the rotor onto the reluctor wheel.



5. Install new rotor fasteners.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the screws to 1.5-2.4 [n-m] (13-22 lb in)
   


6. Install the distributor cap.



7. Install new distributor cap screws.
   
   Tighten:
   
   Tighten the screws to 1.8-3.0 [n-m] (16-26 lb in)
   


8. Connect the CMP sensor harness connector.


9. Connect the spark plug wires and ignition coil wire.



10. Connect the negative battery cable.

1995 silverado has a distributor, remove the the distributor cap, make sure the distributor spins with the engine. also make sure the ignition rotor is not burned out or have a hole were it makes contact with the cap. also make sure the cap has a good carbon inside to make contact with the rotor, at this time get a screw driver, put it on the end of the wire from the coil to the cap, don't touch the metal part of the screwdriver, it will shock you if good, so put it at 5/16 from any metal on the engine, bracket, alternator , thermostat housing no matter, some one turns the engine over, check to see if the coil produces a spark, if the rotor turns, if ok it should have spark on all the wires, if it has no spark, remove the wire from the ignition coil and check if you have spak at the coil, if you have no spark, try getting a wire lead, connect it from the battery ground on one end, a screw driver on the coil to check for spark, and the other end of the wire with the key on, touch the - negative plug on the coil, that should produce a spark, if not spark yet, make sure you do have power at the coil with key on, if you do and it doesn't produce spark, replace coil. if it does spark but it is weak or yellow in color, replace coil. if coil is fine, replace distributor module,

Check distributor I have a 93 1500 pull cap and trun engine over watch the shaft if nothing turn truck off and check free play on rotor bug shaft

Hello,

I understand your problem, and I will try and give you the best advice here of what to do.

Yes, most likely when your son installed the distributor cap/rotor the screw might have been stripped some or just loose. And yes over a period of time they can work them self off, mostly because the rotor itself is the moving part. The distributor itself if screwed down correctly does not move, but the rotor inside of course does move.

The best way to solve this, and to make sure this works correctly, is to purchase a new distributor cap and rotor, reason for this is, then the screw will be new and do not have to worry about possible stripped where rotor tightens down. It is possible he might even cross threaded them, which is still better off to buy new rotor and cap (they normally come with the screw if not , have them match them up to fit) Just need to give like AUTO ZONE, the make, model, engine and they can hook you up. Now I realize you can use old cap and rotor, but problem is this, because it came off and so forth, why take the chance of the rotor or cap getting banged up, and then will could have some electrical issues, sense there plastic and only takes a small hairline crack to cause problem. best to replace both and then secure down snug. Almost any garage, or a friend that has a couple screw drivers and some knowledge can do this for you for like a cold beer. I hope this helps you, and I think this will be a easy, low cost solution. Thanks Mike from Fixya.

If you've got the caliper assembly completely off, including the caliper mounting bracket, the rotor should come right off. If it's still giving you a hard time, you have 3 avenues you can try.

• First, check to see if there's a screw holding it on. Some cars will have a single screw in the center portion of the rotor that holds it on.
• If there's no screw, then the rotor is just rusted on. It just needs a little persuasion to come off. A good way to break it free from rust is to hit it with a hammer. If you need to re-use the rotor, make sure to hit it in the center of the rotor and not on the braking surface. If you are replacing the rotor, don't be shy. Give it some good whacks from the backside of the rotor and it should come off.
• Some rotors are particularly stubborn and still won't come off with the help of a hammer. If that's the case for you, then there's one more trick. In the center portion of the rotor, there should be a couple of blank threaded holes that look like they should have a bolt in them. These holes were put there for this very reason. Find a couple of bolts that fit these threads. Thread them into the holes and start tightening them up. Tighten them evenly and you should start to see them push the rotor off.

Hopefully this helps you.

Good Luck!
~Brandon

The distributor rotor just slides on the distributor shaft with no screws or hold downs on it.

How did you inspect your parts. Sometimes a part might look ok when actually it is bad. When was the last time you replaced your Fuel filter? I would perform a fuel pressure test. You may have a weak fuel pump. You don't list checking your plug wires. You may have some bad plug wires. Also remove your rotor and look in the distributor. There is a part located under where the rotor goes that is a ceramic type of material. I can't remember what they call it but inspect it for cracking. Is is a fairly common thing. If you see cracking you will need to replace the distrubutor shaft which is not a big deal or you can buy a remanned distributor if you don't want to mess with it. Also you may have an EGR valve that is sticking open which could cause your symptoms.

Try pulling up on the rotor, it may just be stuck on, some of the mounting screws have keepers that keep them from seperating from the rotor. They come out with it.

Removal & Installation 2.2L Engine To Remove:

1. Lift the vehicle.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Right wheel and tire assembly.
   • Camshaft position (CMP) sensor electrical connector.
     
     
   • Bolt and CMP sensor.

To Install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   • Camshaft position (CMP) sensor and bolt.
     1. Torque to: 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
   • CMP sensor electrical connector.
   • Right tire assembly.
2. Lower the vehicle.

4.3L Engine To Remove:

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Spark plug wires and ignition coil wire from the distributor 4.3L Distributor CMP electrical connector
     
     
   • Camshaft position (CMP) sensor harness connector from the distributor
   • Distributor cap screws 4.3L Distributor cap removal
     
     
   • Distributor cap 4.3L Distributor rotor screws removal
     
     
   • Rotor screws
   • Rotor
   4.3L Align reluctor wheel slot with CMP
   
   
2. Align the square slot in the reluctor wheel with the CMP sensor 4.3L CMP sensor screws removal
   
   
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • CMP screws 4.3L CMP sensor removal
     
     
   • CMP sensor

To Install:
NOTE: Do not use the old cap, CMP sensor, and rotor screws. Use the replacement screws that have been coated with a thread locking compound.

1. Insert the CMP sensor through the reluctor wheel slot
2. Install or connect the following:
   • New CMP mounting screws and tighten the screws
     1. Torque to: 19 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
   • Rotor onto the reluctor wheel
   • New rotor screws and tighten the screws
     1. Torque to: 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm)
   • Distributor cap
   • New distributor cap screws and tighten the screws
     1. Torque to: 21 inch lbs. (2.4 Nm)
   • CMP sensor harness connector
   • Spark plug wires and ignition coil wire
3. Test drive the vehicle to confirm the repairs

brake rotor or distributor rotor?

The brake rotor usually gets rusted on....putting a hammer on one portion of the rotor face and striking the rotor face 180 degrees from the first hammer should do it.

Distributor rotor is under the distributor cap. Two screws usually free the cap and expose the rotor. You pull off the old one and push on the new one!

Good luck and be careful!