Knocking sound coming from the Passenger side front axle

Most probably wrong part. Compare the holes with the old part.

Hi there do check your strut mountings ,strut mounting centre bolt , sway bar rubber mounting,sway bar links and shock mounting bolts on axle . Do check your brake calipers for worn slider bolts or brake pad retainer plates .

OK so it's your CV axle most likely during slow revolutions it clacks and makes noises so replace both sides to ensure transmission/engine performance stays optimal to power applied to the road. The other cause of noises in that area are due to the wheel bearings needing replaced usually and sometimes repacking the bearings instead. On your car if the axle passes through the wheel it has to ride on something to control balance and torque across the drive shaft. I would replace both front driver and passenger side wheel bearings and the CV axles on both sides please be smart people and replace parts like these in pairs/ together the reason being after you replace one side you drive a few months or less and the other side goes out almost always soon after the other I would say over 75% of the time let it be bearings/u-joints/CV axles or other crucial parts. Hope this helps please take my word and fix it right the first time and please buy the better parts not the cheapest parts out there if you want quality/ safety than buy the better or best parts never just the good or OK parts

could be loose strut springs , strut shocky mount , top strut bearing, loose wheel bearings, suspension mounts.
have it inspected by an accredited suspension shop.

He's probably talking about upper strut mounts/bearing plates or the rubber bumpstops under them. Either way, the strut assemblies have to be removed and dis-assembled to replace them. So he is probably figuring on replacing these items as well as the struts themselves, since everything is already apart. unless the van has very, very low miles. I would double check the front sway bar links though. These cause noise on bumps similar to a strut mount, and are notorious for premature failure. Moog makes them with grease fittings to get batter life. Both sides can usually be replaced for around $250 for parts and labor. When I do have one with bad strut mounts, I usually go ahead and figure worst case. I figure struts, upper mounts/bearing plates, bump-stops and bellows, and the sway bar links on any T&C with over 60K. Usually runs between $750 - $850 for parts and labor (including alignment) with a labor rate of $74.50 per hour. If it is your struts and not just the sway bar links, you can drive it for a while before they have to be replaced. Another option is complete strut assemblies from Monroe or KYB. They are completely assembled with all new parts and you can bolt them in youself to save come money. It takes all the specialty tools out of the job. This can be accomplished at home with simple hand tools in the driveway! Either way, check the sway bar links. If in doubt, replace them.

can b e a few things -bearings,hub,brake,control arms[upper/lower]shock sway bar,bushings,steering components-----jack up side where noise is coming from leave tire on -move tire up down and side to side -look and listen also if any oil residue around shock/strut most likely faulty

Check the drop link and sway bar (anti roll bar) bushes also the knock could be in the strut top or the strut itself, maybe disconnect the drop link to the sway bar and drive over a pothole and see if the knock is still there.

Shocks/struts need to be replaced.

My dear if according to you,

You've replaced tie rod ends, lower ball joints, sway bar links, struts and strut ends, and the warped brake rotors and the issue is still at hand; then you ought to consider replacing the hubs.

Good luck.

possible sway bar links, strut bearing plates (they sit on top of the strut), ball joints, tie rod ends. If the you can make it squeek by pushing up and down on the front, have someone do this while trying to narrow where the noise is coming from.