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the timing is 180 degrees out so ignore where no 1 lead should be and rewire the HT leads to the new position for no1 cylinder. The crank timing mark should be on 10 degrees advanced. Engines are timed off the crank position so forget the cam position.
Or you can start again. Remove no 1 plug and turn the engine over until you feel compression under your finger over the plug hole. Set the timing on the crank to 10 degrees before tdc. Position the distributor so that the point of the star is directly opposite the exciter coil in the distributor. The rotor button should now be facing no 1 cylinder plug lead adjust the HT leads so that they will fire in the 1342 firing order. Start the engine and with a timing light attached to no 1 plug lead adjust the timing mark to specifications by turning the body of the distributor.
I would look into replacing the coil even though it is sending spark it might not be enough and I would go through and just double check all my wires as well as the firing order because if it's off just a little it will make the car run rough
spray some starterfluid in there see if ur getting gas. check ur plugs and gaps. cap, rotor if none of that it may be a coil pack or the ICM a way to check the coil pack is to remove one of the spark plug wires from the cap an rotor an hold it close but not tuching the cap and turn it over to see if there is a spark if so that means the coil is good
you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.
Since it don't fire, you need to check your spark plugs/coils, wires, distributor/coil pack, dist.cap, rotor, cam sensor, crank sensor. It may be the computer but that is last possibility. Each one of these effect the fire to the engine. You need to test what you can. It could be anyone of them.
Pull one or two sparkplugs and check them for moisture; not fuel, but for water beads.
I don't know how long your engine ran after losing coolant but there is a chance that you lost the head gasket and have gotten water into the cylinders.
crank shaft position sensor is most likely cause. Do check ignition and fuel pump relays with an ohmmeter to make sure they are not faulty. Check power to ignition module. You can also check crank sensor with the ohmmeter. Check all vacuum hose and also check throttle position sensor.