Fluid coming out from rubber boot on gear box that pushes the fork in clutch just need 2 now wat the part is called plz

if manual
collapsed pressure plate
worn clutch
hydraulic master or slave cylinder leaking
syncro internal transmission issue

if auto
low oil
torque converter collapse
gearbox solenoids or electronic fault
internal mechanical damage

Does the car want to pull when sitting still in gear with your foot on the clutch? If so, I would say that your clutch is not fully engaging and could be the cause of your grinding when changing gears. If not then I would think the clutch is operating fully and the synchros are worn and need replaced. But either way, with metalic fluid being in the slave cylinder dust boot, the slave cylinder needs changed.

does it go to floor --if hydraulic check fluid level possible leak air in system--blown line-- burnt up clutch -bad slave --regular clutch --spring --throw out bearing --broken fork --blown clutch

Just a suggestion here but my son was experiencing the same problem with his Toyota Celica. We replaced the clutch and throwout bearing and MC, had me stumped for days the I pulled back the rubber boot on the MC where the it comes through the firewall under the dash and saw that there was fluid leaking into the boot so basically the MC was bad an it was bypassing the metering valve causing the fluid not to push the slave cylinder all the way down for engagement. On another car ...a 97 Saturn SL it wouldn't shift into gear, also all new clutch components. Wound up being a bad top right side motor mount was bad. engine was sagging just enough to cause the clutch not to shift properly. I hope this helps.

The problem is inside the box, could be a sliding sleeve and gear

hi from uk the 17mm bolts you mention do not remove as these secure the caliper carrier and only need removing to facilitate disc/rotor renewal to remove caliper only if you check the rear of caliper you will see two 13mm blts top and bottom of caliper these bolts pass thro conveluted rubber boots into slide pins bolts screw into these pins and the caliper is what is known as floating caliper this means only one piston operation on caliper then caliper slides on pins tou operate both pads when brakes applied so remove the two bolts and the steel spring on front face of caliper ?(remember how it fits !) then caliper slides off the rotor leaving pads in place on the carrier you then prise out pads/wirebrush carrier points where new pads are to fit then push caliper piston back then refit caliper in reverse order ADVICE= before refitting caliper smear alittle copper grease on rear metal side of each pad this prevents squeeling of pads when braking also pull out the to pins mentioned above that fit into carrier top/bottom wipe clean and put /smear copper grease on these too then refit and push in till rubber boots reseat on the carrier lips ? when you have done both sides brakes bleed calipers this is a must ! and when you do you will see dirty fluid emmited on the fist couple of pumps on b/pedal then clean fluid ? this WILL improve b/pedal travel and more positive ? the dirty fluid is o/heated /burnt fluid which becomes compressable giving soft pedal when operated and is due to heat transfer from disc/pads over time and is conducted thro caliper piston to fluid that is why it is recommended you bleed/flush hydraulics at least 2year intervals hope the above helps you and understandable best wishes from uk

usually when this happen you lost fluid pressure look for a fluid leak at the clutch master cylinder under the hood ,it should be by the brake master ,it has a small plastic tank on top with a black rubber cap or underneath on the transmission there is the clutch slave cylinder it will have a small 2 inch rod that pushes the clutch fork ,look for the rubber boot on it ,see if there is fluid coming out of it ,also follow the clutch fluid lines maybe somthing has damaged one and its leaking !

Yes that is correct. it should say what type right on the lid. example dot 3 or dot 4.

The squeaking would have either been caused by the clutch release bearing or the pilot bearing in the crankshaft if it has one (pilot bearing). It doesn't really matter as the transmission has to come of to repair either of these. It is hard to tell what you were describing, but whatever you do, don't spray any more WD 40 at anything! It will ruin your clutch and clutch fluid if it comes in contact with either. If the clutch fluid reservoir gets low, only use new brake fluid to top it up.

hi from uk just out of curiosity ? with engine off try selecting a gear manually by moving the selector link at gearbox from engine compartment if you can feel a selection ? then press clutch and start engine see if car moves with clutch slowly engaged ? if it does? then would suspect the actual g/stick vertical part that fits into the cables gate/selection has broken ? come back with update ? and please give history prior to this fault occuring ?as it would give more of idea what may have gone wrong ?