Question about 1989 Acura Integra

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Car will not idle after working on cooling system.

I have a ZC engine. After I replaced one of the heater hoses, my engine will not idle. If I press the gas peddal the engine runs fine. Does the cooling system have to be purged in order for it to idle?

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  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    car doesnt run hot while running idle but as soon as you press the gas it runs hot

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It sounds more like youve knocked something off while doing repair.Did you or mechanic do water hose.Look for a vacuum hose or wire that may have been dislodged as the water system doesnt have much to do with engine idle maybe for choke though.Make sure all things that were moved were correctly reinstalled

Posted on Oct 22, 2008

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02 deville getting air out of cooling system


Remove the cap from the surge tank. Set the heater control temp to max (A/C in any mode EXCEPT max). Start the engine and idle until lower radiator to pump hose is hot. Allow the engine to cool to ambient, and then check/fill the surge tank and replace cap.

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Could be low on antifreeze. The heater core is the highest spot in the cooling system and it may develop an air pocket. Another possibility is the thermostat is stuck partially open and doesn't let the engine warm correctly, watch your temp gauge on the dash and see if it comes up to the middle like it should while idling. If it doesn't, it may need replacement.

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Why would the sound of water flowing through a tube happen when we start to accelorate?


The sloshing noise may be caused from air in the cooling system.

If there's air in the system, it ends up in the heater core because it's the highest point in the cooling system. When you accelerate, the water pump spins faster pushing coolant into the heater core forcing the air out causing the sloshing noise.

To remove any air from the cooling system, get the engine up to operating temperature. With the engine idling loosen the upper radiator hose clamp. take a small flat bladed screwdriver and slip it between the upper radiator hose and the radiator hose neck. Allow the engine to idle until all that comes out from the radiator hose is coolant. Retighten the hose clamp.

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Sounds like the air blend door is not opening to let heat in.

Engine coolant is provided to the heater system by two 16 mm (5/8 inch inside diameter) heater hoses. With the engine idling at normal running temperature, set the heater-A/C controls as follows. Temperature control to full Heat, Mode control to Floor, Blower control to the highest speed setting. Using a test thermometer, check the air temperature coming from the center floor outlets and compare this reading to the Temperature Reference table.

If the floor outlet air temperature is insufficient, check that the cooling system is operating to specifications. Both heater hoses should be HOT to the touch (the coolant return hose should be slightly cooler than the supply hose). If the coolant return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair the engine coolant flow obstruction in heater system.

POSSIBLE LOCATIONS OR CAUSE OF OBSTRUCTED COOLANT FLOW
If coolant flow is verified and the heater floor outlet temperature is insufficient, a mechanical problem may exist.

POSSIBLE LOCATION OR CAUSE OF INSUFFICIENT HEAT
  • Obstructed cowl air intake.
  • Obstructed heater system outlets.
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TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If heater floor outlet temperature cannot be adjusted with the heater-A/C control temperature control lever, one of the following could require service:

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1 Answer

Hot heat at idle cool when driving


is there a chance that one of your heater hoses are clogged? or where they connect to the engine are clogged still? sounds like a clogged system. Cracked heater housing? Outside air bypassing the heater coil while driving?

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1994 silverado heat is not working. Replaced thermastat, heater core and checked fuses. Still no heat. The blower motor (high, med, low, is working fine.


I think that one still uses cables to control the blend doors and vent doors. Are you sure those are working and/or connected.

Also when you replaced the thermostat and heater core did you bleed the cooling system? With the engine cold remove the radiator cap and let engine idle up to operating temp while keeping the radiator topped off with coolant.

Are the hoses going to the heater core hot?

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1 Answer

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Just because the overflow reservior is full does not mean that the rest of the cooling system is also full. The engine itself is very low on coolant and running hot as indicated by the temperature guage showing hot and the cooling fans running continuously. You obviously have a leak in the cooling system caused by either a faulty hose or radiator which is leaking once the system pressure increases as the engine heats up.. The rubber hoses in the cooling system can go hard and start to leak where they attach to the metal piping around the engine as they get towards 10 years old. Thoroughly check all hoses including heater hoses and the smaller bypass hoses around the engine for splits or leaks. Stop engine and allow to cool, replace any defective hoses or hose clamps and then refill radiator. Restart engine with radiator cap off and idle engine with heater control on full until it reackes operating temperature while continuing to add coolant until the system is full once again. Allow the cooling fans to cycle on and off a few times to ensure there are no air locks in the system. .Hopefully you have not overheated the engine to the point where you have caused a problems with the head gasket which could allow coolant to leak into the sump. This will be indicated by the dipstick showing a milky emulsion instead of just oil on it. If the haad gasket has failed, it will necesitate removal of the haed, have it machined, and then replaced with a new gasket. Not a cheap exercise.

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3 Answers

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Check the heater core for a clog or the heater control valve. The easiest was to check these is allow heater to run for a few minutes and check the two hoses coming from under the hood against the fire wall. They should both be hot. If they are not, you have one of the above problems. Start with the heater control valve and replace it. It is much cheaper than than a heater core. Next, you will need to pull the lines from the firewall and see is rust starts coming out of the lines, if so, you may be able to flush the system and clear the blockage. After that, if it does not work, it will require replacing the heater core, which is no easy or cheap feat.

Let me know if there is anything more I can help you with.

Please remember to rate this solution.

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