My clutch cylinder leak i took it apart and clean it and put it back together and i bleed it the same after noon i had no clutch again it leak around the rubber what can i do and what is the real name of that cylinder the one on the transmission
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Re: nissan pick up 95 4\4 v6 my clutch cylinder leak
Hi, I think that there must be a scratch in the bore of the "HYDRAULIC CLUTCH CYLINDER". I would treat it like a brake cylinder that has a leak and **** / burnish it out or better still replace it and forget the problem. Glad to be of service - Please rate the solution - I can learn from your rating. Thank you
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`Did it bleed, did fluid come out in a steady stream? Isn't there a spring to bring the pedal off the floor?
Check the linkage of the pedal to rod to the clutch master cylinder, make sure that is all together. Any chance the master has an internal leak and won't build hydraulic pressure down at the slave? If you get it bled, then watch the slave operation while someone works the clutch pedal. The piston on the slave should extend and push the clutch fork enough to disengage the clutch.
Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm.
Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder.
My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it.
There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.
You have to open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder to let the air bleed out. It is done the same way as bleeding brakes. If there is one bubble of air inside the lines or the slave cylinder , it won't work.
crawl up under the dashboard & look where the clutch pedal rod goes through the firewall. look for traces of brake fluid at the rubber boot of the rod. a clutch master cylinder normally will leak to the inside of the vehicle & down the firewall when it fails. Replace as required & bleed clutch system using the bleeder valve that should be on the slave asy.
first fill the clutch reservoir with brake fluid.get some body to help you.besure dont let clutch reservoir fluid get low during this procedure.get a clear vinyl tube.connect it to bleeder plug on slave cylinder.put the other end of vinyl tube in a container filled with half clean brake fluid.now get helper to open bleed screw on slave cylinder just a hair.now you pump clutch pedal 10 to 15 times.with out bringing pedal the full way up.do this until you see no air bubbles in vinyl tube.when all air is out.before tighten bleed screw make sure you keep slight pressure on clutch pedal to keep air from going back in line.when job complete clutch pedal fill firm check slave cylinder brake fluid level. check for leaks.you all set to go.
no, there is no clutch adjustment. the clutch is hydraulic, and self adjusting, there are several things that can go wrong with these. with normal wear the fluid can run low allowing air into the system, causing a weak peddle. they can also develop leaks in the master and slave cylinders resulting in fluid loss also causing a weak peddle leading to an inopperative clutch. check the fluid level in the clucth master cylinder(next to the brake master cylinder. if it is empty, refill it(it takes brake fluid) then cycle the clutch peddle a few times and check for leaks. if there is air trapped in the line the clutch will need to be bled. there is a bleeder screw on top of the slave cylinder, bleed it just like bleeding brakes.