Good lighting will help. Also, use a brake cleaner spray or penetrant to clean things off so you can see .I have a 1996 F150 with push button 4WD with manual locking hubs. Dana 44 axle. Yours may be similar. For front wheel, remove locking ring just inside the inner edge of the hub housing (once you remove the manual hub locking switch, 6 screws on mine, could be 3 on others). Not conspicuous, took me awhile to find. Your hub locking assembly will appear to be recessed just behind its edge goes around outer circumferance. Next, Remove the locking spring (looks like a washer) around the very end of the spline shaft. This is towards the center around the shaft. There is a silver looking retainer ring you have too pull it over, use very small standard screwdriver. Locking mechanism should pull right out after that, giving you access to the outer bearing adjustment nut. Use 4 prong wheel bearing nut socket readily available at auto parts stores. Remove adjustment nut. Next, remove spacer that fits into keyway on shaft. There is nothing holding it on, just pull it off. Beneath that there is another bearing nut, remove this also with 4 prong socket. Just pull hub off after removed. Sometimes rust will keep you from removing at this point. Just get a good penetrant lubricant, spray on and let soak, repaeat if necessary . You can also get a plastic 4lb+ dead blow hammer to assist. Bang on rotor from inside to out. Be prepared to service wheel bearings, they fit into the inside of the rotor/hub assembly and will be dislodged when you remove it. This is as far as I have gotten myself. Good Luck.
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its time to rebuild the hub you can pick up the new one at auto zone advanced auto napa
this is very easy to do they come with step by step instructions
its common for the hub locks to get sharp edges and get misaligned and hang up
1. Jack up, put on jack stands and remove tire (obviously)
2. Remove caliper
3. Remove bolts holding locking hub body to hub
4. Remove snap ring from end of axle, Remove hub retainer ring from ID
of wheel hub. Use a small screwdriver or pick to start it out of the
groove. Remove the hub body
5. Remove the outer bearing lock nut, lock washer and the inner adjusting nut
You need the special socket for this OTC #7158 or similar
6. Remove the outer bearing and then the hub
7. To separate the rotor from the hub, use a soft faced hammer to drive the studs out
8. Turn the hub over and set the new rotor in place. Put the studs back in.
9. I will usually use an air hammer to drive the studs back in.
Alternating in a circular pattern. If you don't have access, you can
use a large diameter punch or another hammer on the back of the studs.
10. Now would be a good time to repack the bearings and replace the
wheel seals. Pull the spindles and check the bearings and seals in the
back of them. If they are not rusted, slab some grease on them and put
11. Install the hub and rotor assy, and the outer bearing and bearing adjustment nut.
large O-ring that holds in the lockout,just on other side of outside cover with 6 allen head or torque screws,little snap ring around the axel shaft outside end of spline,everything you see all the way to the ratchet nut that holds the rotor-hub on.The ratchet nut has 4 notches in it,stop there way inside.
I've got a 96' with manual turning hubs,before I go into 4 wheel drive I have get out and turn them onto lock,when I change my rotor, as soon as I took that part off,and whatever parts came out with it,and then you have to look real close of the inner hub there is a ring in there you have to get that out now your get to the outer lock nut,you'll need a spanner locknut wrenchto loosen it,next is lockwasher you can pull it out then you got inner lock nut take it out ( when you put that back you can hand tighten it) the rotor should come out
you have to knock out all the wheel studs first. these are pressed in, just hammer them out then you can hammer the rotor off by placing hub and rotor, outer side up on flat surface. this will probably destroy the rotor but im assuming you are replacing them anyway
have you got the wheel off, this is first step. next take off the pads and caliper. you dont have to disconnect the brake line. next there is a cotterpin and bolt holding the rotor on( in the center under a cap w grease in it), remove these and it should come off. if its rusted on youll have to hammer it a bit.
There is a small o- snapp ring under the grease around chrome hub. Clean gease and then remove with an automtive pick. That will lead to nother snapp ring. Exloded view autozone.com. You still need a spanner socket to remave bearing nut.