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How much oil does the 4 cylinder engine take?

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  • Anonymous May 20, 2009

    how much oil does the 4 cylinder engine take?

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4 1/2 qts

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

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This will help.

Thanks.

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Torque setting for a 1998 ford taurus 3.0 intake manifold


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONSDescriptionNmLb-FtLb-InEngine Air Cleaner Tube Clamps1.6-2.2-14-19Engine Control Sensor Wiring Through Bolts2.5-3.5-23-30Generator to Bracket Bolt3727-Generator to Cylinder Head Bolt4835-Generator Brace to Upper Intake Manifold Bolts and Nut12-209-14-Intake Manifold Support to Throttle Body8-12-71-106Intake Manifold Support to RH Cylinder Head40-5530-40-Degas Tube to Upper Intake Manifold Bolts8-12-71-106Camshaft Sprocket to Camshaft Bolt50-7037-51-Camshaft Thrust Plate Bolt10-88Coil and Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt40-5530-40-Connecting Rod Nut31-3923-28-Crankshaft Damper to Crankshaft Bolt125-16593-121-Crankshaft Pulley to Damper (4 Bolts)40-6030-44-Cylinder Head Retaining Bolt(1)(1)-Accelerator Cable Shield Bolts1.4-13Camshaft Position Sensor Housing Retaining Bolt2417-EGR Tube Connector to Exhaust Manifold40-4730-34-EGR Valve to Upper Intake Manifold Bolt20-3015-22-EGR Tube to EGR Valve and Exhaust Manifold35-6526-47-Exhaust Manifold Bolt/Stud20-2515-18-Flywheel to Crankshaft Bolt73-8754-64-Fuel Injection Supply Manifold to Intake Manifold8-12-71-106Throttle Cable Bracket1713-Dual Converter Y Pipe to Exhaust Manifolds34-4725-34-Crankshaft Position Sensor Bolts5-7-45-61Intake Manifold to Cylinder Head Bolt (5)(2)(2)-Main Bearing Cap Bolt75-8556-62-Oil Drain Plug11-169-11-Oil Filter Insert to Cylinder Block27-4020-29-Oil Filter to Oil Filter Adapter(3)(3)-Oil Galley and Cooling Jacket Plugs2014-Oil Level Indicator Tube to Exhaust Manifold Nut16-2012-14-Engine to Transaxle/Torque Converter Assembly Bolts40-6030-44-Torque Converter Nuts27-4620-33-Transmission Range Sensor Nut16-2212-16-Front Sub-Frame-to-Body Bolts77-10357-75-Oil Pressure Sensor16-2212-16-Oil Pump to Cylinder Block Bolt40-5530-40-Power Steering Bracket to Cylinder Head Bolt40-5530-40-Valve Cover to Cylinder Head Bolts/Studs (5)10-14-89-123Right Exhaust Manifold Heat Shield Retaining Bolts8-12-71-106Rocker Arm Seat to Cylinder Head Bolt(4)(4)-Water Outlet Connection to Intake Manifold Bolt10-14-89-123Upper Intake Manifold to Lower Intake Manifold Bolt/Stud20-3015-22-Engine Front Cover to Cylinder Block Bolt (No. 1-10)2518-Engine Front Cover to Cylinder Block Bolt (No. 11-15)10-88Water Pump Pulley to Hub (4 Bolts)20-3015-22-Water Pump to Front Cover Bolt8-12-71-106Wiring Retainer Bracket Nut20-3015-22-Valve Tappet Guide Plate to Cylinder Block10-14-89-123Ignition Coil Bracket40-5530-40-Oil Pan to Cylinder Block Bolt10-14-89-123Water Bypass Tube Nut20-3015-22-Crankshaft Pulley Bolts40-5530-40-


  1. Tighten in four steps (refer to illustration in Cylinder Head Installation for tightening sequence):
    • Tighten in sequence to 70-90 Nm (52-66 Lb-Ft)
    • Then back off all bolts 360 degrees
    • Tighten in sequence to 45-55 Nm (34-40 Lb-Ft)
    • Tighten in sequence to 85-99 Nm (63-73 Lb-Ft)
  2. Tighten in two steps
    • 20-30 Nm (15-22 Lb-Ft)
    • 26-32 Nm (20-23 Lb-Ft)
  3. Advance 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket contacts sealing surface or tighten to 13-15 Nm (10-11 Lb-Ft).
  4. Tighten in two steps:
    • 7-15 Nm (6-11 Lb-Ft)
    • 26-38 Nm (20-28 Lb-Ft)
  5. Refer to illustration in the Cylinder Head Installation procedure for tightening sequence.

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How many quarts of oil do i need to put in my corsica 95


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Can't find oil filter, need location


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4 cylinder oil capacity


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Jun 28, 2009 | 2001 Daewoo Lanos

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Oil leak?


Whoa whoa ... You've said that the car takes 7 quarts of oil. That's 14 pints. Depending on which engine variant is fitted, engine oil capacity is either:
  • 5.75 litres + 0.4 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • Turbo - 3.85 litres + 0.6 litre if the oil cooler is drained
  • These figures are for a UK 3 litre version of the 960
If you've filled the car with 7 quarts of engine oil that's almost twice as much oil as should be in the engine. Did you mean pints when you wrote quarts?

If you've filled it with 7 quarts it's overfull. Way too full. Check your oil dipstick - remove it, wipe it clean and then dip the oil level. At the bottom of the dipstick there is a flattened wider part. The oil level should not be below the bottom of this marker, and nor should it be above it. If the oil level is way above the flattened marker bar - you're overfull and will have to drain some oil out of the engine. An overfilled engine will try and blow oil out from wherever it can as the oil system will over-pressurised.

Ok .. so there's no problem with the engine compression. The crankcase isn't overfilled with oil (the crankcase is known as the oil sump in the UK). There's no oil fouling of the plugs and the car isn't burning oil, just leaking it. There's no misfires or running

If the engine isn't overfilled with oil there may be a problem with a broken/sticking piston ring or piston/cylinder. That high oil loss you mention seems severe. A problem with a piston/ring/cylinder can allow the compression to leak past the rings/piston into the engine oil sump and pressurise it. Under pressure, the oil will try and leak to atmosphere from anywhere it can.

A blue smoky exhaust is also an indication of piston/ring problems. A quick check is to start the car. If there's a cloud of blue smoke at start up which clears quickly, it's like to be worn valve guides. If, when driving the car with a warm engine there's blue smoke on acceleration - it points to a problem with rings/piston.

A quick check is to remove the spark plugs. Is there engine oil on one or more of them? An oiled up plug indicates that the engine oil is finding its way up past the rings/piston - and if oil can find its way up to a spark plug, then exhaust gasses/compressed fuel/air can find its way into the engine oil sump and pressurise it.

Another quick check is to start the engine and remove the oil dipstick. If fumes are 'chugging' out of the tube or oil is spitting out, that's another sure-fire sign that the oil sump is becoming pressurised due to a piston ring/piston/cylinder problem.

If you possess or can borrow an engine compression tester there is a further test you can do yourself to confirm whether or not there are piston/ring problems. Basically, a compression tester is just a gauge that screws into the cylinder head in place of the spark plug.

Warm the engine for 5 minutes so that the pistons expand fully in the bores.
Remove the spark plugs
Fit the compression tester into No1 cylinder and crank the engine for 10 seconds. Make a note of the compression reading on the gauge.
Do the same for each cylinder.

Here's an example of what you might find (the figures are for example only)
Cylinder Reading
1 115
2 120
3 118
4 95
5 96
6 117

Figures vary, but there should not be more than a 10% difference between the readings.
In the example above you can see that cylinders 4 and 5 have readings that are well below those of the other cylinders. This is indicating problems within those two cylinders. The lower compression could be due to a head/gasket fault or piston ring/piston problem. A split or worn exhaust valve in the head may cause low compression, a misfire and uneven running but it won't cause the engine oil sump/crankcase to pressurise. Now, some fine tuning to locate the exact problem:

Put a liberal squirt of oil into each cylinder - something like Redex, WD40 or engine oil.Put a cloth over each spark plug hole and spin the engine to get rid of the excess oil. The idea is that the oil you have squirted into the piston bores will form a 'seal' around the outside of the piston/rings.

Do the compression tests again and note the readings. If the readings go up significantly it indicates that the rings/pistons/bore has a problem. Readings that go up significantly are due to the oil forming a seal around the piston which raises the compression whilst testing. Here's an example:Cylinder Reading on 1st test 2nd test
1 115 118
2 120 121
3 118 120
4 95 110 Significant rise - more than 10%
5 96 98
6 117 119

Ok .. all this means is that cylinder 4 has compression problems due to the rings/piston/bore. The 2nd compression reading (with the oil squirted in) is higher simply because the oil formed a seal. Cylinder number 5 still has a low reading which didn't increase significantly on the 2nd 'wet' (when oil is added) test. This suggests that the problem is an exhaust valve/head gasket/head problem.

If there had been no significant increase in the reading on number 4 cylinder, this would suggest valve/gasket head problem. Low readings on adjoining cylinders (and which don't increase with the 2nd compression 'wet' oil test) would indicate a faulty head gasket between those two cylinders.

I'll continue this article ... ran out of word space

Jun 24, 2008 | 1996 Volvo 960

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