Question about 1999 Subaru Forester

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Center differential When the mechanic replaced the clutch, he advised that the right axle needed to be replaced. Shortly after I picked it up, a crunching sounding and feeling came from the right axle when I turned the wheel, especailly noticeable at slower speeds. Sounded and felt like the right wheet was coming off. They replaced the right axle they had installed. It still happened when the car attained highway speeds. After taking it back three times, they came to the conclusion that my center differential needed to be replaced. This would seem to defy logic. 1. Could the center differential cause the wierd crunching on the right when the wheet was turned 2. could they have damaged the center differential in replacing and monkeying around with the right axle

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  • joyfull2 Dec 16, 2008

    I just found out i need a 2 new front axles on my forester. It does make a metle sound clicking when i turned. Does any one know how much i should pay for parts and labor?



    I had my transmission fixed over one year ago and it was very costly about 4 thousand dollars. I am not sure if it was a good job when I took it to the dealer he told me i could have had a new one put in. I am wondering if my axel will ruin my trans or the other way around may be they didnt do a good job in repairing the trans. Anyone know anything about the transmission and effects on the axels?

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    replaced axles and bearing is all right when ypu turn wheels sharply front end makes noise. on rack all four whens turn all of the time

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What you are discribing sure sounds like CV (constant volocity) joint noise from the axle(s), diff's don't make crunching noises, they whine and howl when they go bad, I will say this about your problem, you did not have it before the work was done, so it's a fair guess it has something to do with the work done, make them fix it, do you agree?

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

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1 Answer

The right rear axle is bent on my 2005 Ranger. How do I remove and replace this axle? Does it have a clip that locks it into the differential?


kiker graham, Yes there is a clip that holds the axle in the differential. First jack up the back of the vehicle and support with jack stands. Put the transmission in neutral. Remove the wheel and brake drum from the axle you want to remove. Place a catch basin under the differential and remove all the bolts on the rear cover of the differential. Remove the cover and let the gear oil drain out. You may have to move the break line to remove the cover. When the oil has drained out turn the drive shaft until you see a small bolt in a recess on the right side of the assembly on the opposite side on the main drive gear. This is an 8MM bolt that has to loosened very carefully. First, using a punch, place the punch on the head of the bolt and hit it a few times with a hammer to "loosen" it up. This is done to avoid breaking the bolt. If this bolt is broken then you are going nowhere with this job. BE VERY CAREFUL when removing this bolt. When the bolt is out you can move the pin that it is holding. You will notice that this pin is very close to the ends of the axles. Do not completely remove this pin as the side gears will fall out. Pull the pin out only as far as you need to, to push the axle in towards the center of the vehicle. There is a C clip that will fall out when you have done this. Sometimes you have to spin the C clip to get it to fall out. Pull the axle out only far enough to put the center pin back in place. After you do this push the center pin back in and put the small bolt back in to hold it in place. Remove the axle. If the axle is bent and you say it is then it would be a good idea to replace the axle seal at this time. You can use the axle itself to remove the seal. Use the groove where the C clip sits. Place on the inside of the seal. Using the axle as a pry bry, remove the seal. Replace the seal and put the new axle in. You will have to move the axle around a little to get it to engage the splines on the inside of the side gear. Once again pull the center pin out only far enough to push the axle all the way in. Place the C clip in the slot at the end of the axle and pull the axle out as far as you can. This wont be much. Push the center pin back in and replace the little lock bolt and tighten it up. Clean the cover and the back of the differential and use silicone to seal it. There is a fill hole on the front side of the differential. The plug for this hole will accommodate a three eigths ratchet. Fill the differential until the gear oil starts to spill out of the hole. Replace brake drum and wheel. Good luck with this.

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1 Answer

Have a 2004 Avalanche 1500 that has rear end noise that get louder turning to the right and goes away turning to left. Also upon excelatation noise not so loud coasting noise get louder have checked rear...


Suspect a worn left side spider gear or it's bearing in the differential. If a limited-slip differential, the left side clutch may be grabbing somewhat. In any case, the differential will need to be removed from the case to service any worn or defective components. Rear end service is not for inexperienced mechanics. Have you checked the fluid level in the differential? Hope this helps!

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3 Answers

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Depends on what model and components you have:

{ ...
ENGINE TORQUE DISTRIBUTION – DIRECTING THE FLOW OF POWER
In an all-wheel-drive vehicle, engine power can be directed to all four wheels. Subaru Symmetrical AWD differs slightly from model to model in how it directs power to the wheels, depending on its transmission.

MODELS WITH FIVE-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION – CONTINUOUS ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: A viscous-type locking center differential and limited-slip rear differential help distribute torque – normally configured at a 50/50 split front to rear. If wheel speed differs between front and rear axles, the center and/or rear differentials lock up to help distribute power to the wheels with the most traction.

MODELS WITH FOUR-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS – ACTIVE ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: An electronically controlled variable transfer clutch and limited-slip rear differential distribute power to where traction is needed. Sensors monitor parameters such as wheel slippage, throttle position, and braking to help determine torque distribution and direct it to the wheels with optimum traction.

MODELS WITH FIVE-SPEED AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION – VARIABLE TORQUE DISTRIBUTION ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: As with Active All-Wheel Drive, an electronically controlled variable transfer clutch distributes power, but through a planetary-type center differential and a viscous-type limited-slip rear differential. Torque distribution is normally configured at a performance-oriented rear-wheel-biased 45/55 split front to rear. Sensors monitor the same parameters as for Active All-Wheel Drive.

WRX STI, WITH SIX-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION – DRIVER CONTROLLED CENTER DIFFERENTIAL (DCCD) ALL-WHEEL DRIVE: The STI uses an electronically managed multi-plate transfer clutch and a mechanical limited-slip differential in conjunction with a planetary-gear-type center differential to control power distribution between the front and rear wheels. Featuring manual and three automatic modes, DCCD is normally configured at a 41/59 split front to rear. Sensors monitor parameters such as wheel slippage, steering angle, throttle position, and braking to help determine torque distribution and direct it to the wheels with optimum traction. DCCD also features a limited-slip helical front and Torsen® rear differential. ... }

And what are the symptoms? How do you know the coupling to the rear is not working?

Jun 05, 2010 | 1995 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

While in drive, hear clunking and grinding from front differential and axles chatter and hardly spin, drivers side chatters,passenger side spins, put in park, then back in drive and then passenger side...


It sounds like your limited slip differential is in need of a fluid change.
The clutch packs in the axle require a special friction modifier,about 4 ounces added to the axle lube,which fixes the chattering issue.
I'd suggest someone drop the axle diff cover and check or change the
fluid,to see if there are any big metal pcs. in there. If there is no damage,drain the diff fluid and add the friction modifier,only if a SLD..

Note: Only add the friction modifier,if you have a limited slip differential.
Since I can't physically see your vehicle,make sure a mechanic does
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1 Answer

Vw lt35 sdi T.reg clutch has resistance, selects gears but no drive when clutch released ?


Suspect the clutch disc (which fits between the pressure plate and the flywheel) may have had it's center torn out which could prevent power from transferring into the transmission. You could also have a bad differential or a broken axle/CV-joint/universal joint. Another possibility is the drive from the clutch output down to the transmission could be damaged. In any case, it looks as if you are in for a major tear-down of the drive from the clutch onward. You can check for anything broken in either axle by setting the brake, blocking the wheels, and try to move the car with the engine while watching the stub axles coming from the differential case. If one of the axles turns, check outward for what doesn't. If neither turns, then the problem is inside the cases. Good luck!

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1 Answer

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Get the rear wheels off of the ground, remove wheels, and drums. (Rotors if you have those)
Remove rear cover (use a drain pan to catch fluid)
Look for the 5/16" or 8mm head pin bolt and remove it.
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Mark your carrier bearing caps so you know what is left or right, and remove them both.
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2 Answers

1998 ford expedition how to install rear spider gears


Find a PICK-your-PART auto salvage and go get a whole rearend for $150 or so. You will be way far ahead. Or submit to the BLUE OVAL (dealership). Sorry no easy fix.

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2 Answers

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SECTION 205-02B: Rear Drive Axle/Differential — Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 2003 Mustang Workshop Manual IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Axle Shaft Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
  1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Remove the rear brake disc (2C026). For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. Remove the differential housing cover (4033) and drain the lubricant. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.
  1. Remove the differential pinion shaft (4211).
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt (4241).
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove.
    Remove the U-washer (4N237).
    1. Push the axle shafts (4234) inboard.
    1. Remove the U-washer.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Damage to the rear brake anti-lock sensor (2C190) may occur if it is not removed before the axle shaft.
    Carefully remove the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal.
    Remove the axle shaft.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal Removal
  1. Remove the axle shaft (4234). For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
  1. NOTE: If the wheel bearing oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged.
    Using the special tools, remove the rear wheel bearing and wheel bearing oil seal.
Installation
  1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing with the specified lubricant.
  1. Using the special tools, install the new rear wheel bearing.
  1. Lubricate the lip of the new wheel bearing oil seal.
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. Using the special tools, install the new wheel bearing oil seal.
  1. Install the axle shaft. For additional information, refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

-------------------------------------------------------------------
Installation
  1. Lubricate the lip of the wheel bearing oil seal
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel bearing oil seal.
    Install the two axle shafts.
  1. s3b~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-ring in the axle shaft groove.
    Install the U-washer.
    1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shaft.
    1. Pull the axle shaft outward.
  1. NOTE: If a new pinion shaft lock bolt is unavailable, coat the threads with Threadlock and Sealer EOAZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G351-A5 prior to installation.
    Install the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the case lock bolt hole.
    1. Install a new differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
  1. Install the differential housing cover and fill the rear axle with the specified lubrication. For additional information, refer to Differential Housing Cover in this section.
  1. Install the rear brake anti-lock sensor. For additional information, refer to Section 206-09A .
  1. Install the rear brakes. For additional information, refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. Install the tire and wheel assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
  1. Lower the vehicle.

Apr 10, 2009 | 2004 Ford GT

1 Answer

97 dodge grandcaravan


just as your mechanic said it is the overrunning clutch case and you might be able to save it by changing the fluid in it and adding an additive we alway use the limited slip additive made for GM and it has gone away within 100 mile of driving. what this clutch does is links the front to the rear axel and if your tires do not match in size (overall diameter) this clutch has to work over time. and wil ruin this clutch . so check your tires first and hope the additive will save your clutches. good luck

Aug 23, 2008 | 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan

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