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How to best remove lower rocker plastic panels

Need to do some body work on the lower back rocker panels. Looking for the best method to remove the plastic covers so don't damage.

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Power Lock Unlock Rocker Switch


Hi E,with key OFF, try spraying a little ELECTRIC CONTACT CLEANER from CRC or Radio Shack into space between switch & panel on driver's side,cycle switch back & forth 10 or 12 times.driver's side switch 'overrides' others ,if cleaner dosen't work,replace it first. Good Luck

Oct 18, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ticking sounds engine


Without hearing the noise I can only guess. Probably a hydraulic lifter. Many 50s, 60s and 70s engines had this problem. Varnish builds up in the lifter body. If it's just a SLIGHT tick, I wouldn't worry about it. You could try a different brand of oil and some engine cleaner.

As an aside, I personally own a 91 GMC pick-up with a 4.3. It had a clicking lifter on start up and 10 min after. I always used Castrol oil, supposedly one of the best. Switched to Penzoil, it was on sale. No more click!

If you want to try and un-stick it, try this. Be forewarned, it WILL make a mess! Try and locate which side of the engine the noise is coming from. Remove the valve cover. Inspect for bent pushrods and rocker arm stud pulling out of the head. If you find either of these problems, disassemble the whole valve train and inspect/replace worn parts. Back then, Pontiacs and SBCs were notorious for studs pulling out of the head if you ran them hard.

Start engine. Oil will spray/mist everywhere. You were warned. LOL
Watch the rocker arms as it idles. If one does not move as far as the others, and the click is more of a bang, you have a collapsed lifter. A worn cam lobe will be much more quiet than a collapsed lifter, but you will see decreased movement of the rocker arm. Replacement is the only option on both.

Take a RUBBER (not metal ) or plastic dead-blow hammer and rap the rocker arm(s) several times where the pushrod mates with it. Over the years I have used this method with approx 60% success.

May 04, 2013 | 1967 Pontiac GTO

3 Answers

Do I have to take the timming belt off to do a head gasket on a 1999 chevy malibu v6 3.1L


The 3.1 engine does not have a belt,it is a chain motor.You do not need to remove timing chain to remove head.

Apr 12, 2011 | 1999 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Need head bolt torqe for 3100 and should bolts be dry


The bolts should have thread lock on them when installing, and the torque is done in 2 steps. 33 ft lbs. and then 90 deg. after that on the second pass. 3.1L Engine CAUTION
Observe all applicable safety precautions when working around fuel. Whenever servicing the fuel system, always work in a well ventilated area. Do not allow fuel spray or vapors to come in contact with a spark or open flame. Keep a dry chemical fire extinguisher near the work area. Always keep fuel in a container specifically designed for fuel storage; also, always properly seal fuel containers to avoid the possibility of fire or explosion. LEFT SIDE (FRONT)
  1. Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the cooling system into a suitable container.
  4. Disconnect the top half of the air cleaner assembly, then remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
  5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield and crossover pipe.
  6. Disconnect the spark plug wires from spark plugs and looms then route the wires out of the way.
  7. Remove the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  8. Remove upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold.
  9. Remove the left side exhaust manifold.
  10. Remove oil level indicator tube. NOTE: When removing the valve train components they must be kept in order for installation in the same locations they were removed from.
  11. Remove rocker arms nut, rocker arms, balls and pushrods.
  12. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts evenly, then remove the cylinder head from the engine compartment. Remove and discard the gasket. To install:
  13. Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. Clean the threads on the cylinder head bolts and block threads.
  14. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins on the cylinder block so the words THIS SIDE UP are showing.
  15. Coat the bolt threads lightly with sealer, then install finger-tight.
  16. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). With all the bolts tightened make a second pass tightening all the bolts an additional 90°.
  17. Install the pushrods, rocker arms, balls and rocker arm nuts in their proper locations. Tighten the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  18. Install the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum.
  19. Install the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  20. Install the oil level indicator tube. Insert the dipstick.
  21. Connect the spark plug wires to spark plugs and looms.
  22. Install the left side exhaust manifold.
  23. Install the exhaust crossover pipe and heat shield.
  24. Refill the cooling system.
  25. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body air inlet duct.
  26. Connect negative battery cable.
  27. Start vehicle and verify that there are no leaks. Fig. 20: Cylinder head mounting and bolt tightening sequence - 3.1L engine 86883134.gif
RIGHT CYLINDER HEAD (REAR) CAUTION
Fuel Injection systems remain under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
  1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove the top half of the air cleaner assembly and remove the throttle body air inlet duct.
  5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe heat shield and crossover pipe.
  6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  7. Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor connector.
  8. Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
  9. Remove the right side exhaust manifold.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Disconnect the spark plug wires from spark plugs and wire looms and route the wires out of the way.
  12. Remove the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  13. Remove upper intake plenum and lower intake manifold. NOTE: When removing the valve train components they must be kept in order for installation in the same locations they were removed from.
  14. Remove rocker arms nut, rocker arms, balls and pushrods.
  15. Unfasten the cylinder head bolts evenly, then remove the cylinder head from the engine compartment. Remove and discard the gasket. To Install:
  16. Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. Clean the threads on the cylinder head bolts and block threads.
  17. Place the cylinder head gasket in position over the dowel pins on the cylinder block so the words THIS SIDE UP showing.
  18. Coat the bolt threads lightly with sealer, then install finger-tight.
  19. Tighten the cylinder head bolts in sequence to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). With all the bolts tightened make a second pass tightening all the bolts an additional 90°.
  20. Install the pushrods loosely retained with the rocker arm assemblies. Make sure all pushrods are in the correct locations. Coat the ends of the pushrods with prelube. The intake rods are marked yellow and are 5 3?4 inch long. The exhaust pushrods are marked green and 6 inches long. balls and rocker arm nuts. Tighten the rocker arm nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  21. Install the lower intake manifold and upper intake plenum.
  22. Install the rocker arm (valve) covers.
  23. Connect the spark plug wires to spark plugs and wire looms.
  24. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  25. Install the exhaust manifold.
  26. Connect the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold.
  27. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  28. Connect the Oxygen (O2) sensor wiring.
  29. Install the exhaust crossover pipe and heat shield.
  30. Refill the cooling system.
  31. Install the top half of the air cleaner assembly and the throttle body air inlet duct.
  32. Connect negative battery cable.
  33. Start vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.
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Feb 04, 2011 | 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

Ford explorer no heat clicking in dash


NO NEED TO REMOVE WHOLE DASHBOARD!!! REMOVE TWO7MM SCREWS FROM THE BOTTOM OF STEERING PANEL & PRY AND REMOVE PANEL.
NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS ON BLACK PLASTIC STRIP THAT YOU SEE AFTER REMOVING STEERING PANEL....PRY THIS STRIP OF PLASTIC OUT JUST A LITTLE AND CUT IN THE MIDDLE .
NEXT REMOVE TWO 7MM SCREWS FROM AROUND TOP OF INSTRUMENT PANEL (BY GAUGES ) PRY PANEL STARTING FROM AROUND VENT ON LEFT BY DRIVERS DOOR ""THIS PANEL WILL STAY IN PLACE LOOSE... NO NEED TO REMOVE!""
NEXT YOU WILL SEE 0NE 7MM SCREW BY GEAR SELECTOR AREA.. BEHIND THE LOOSE PANEL REMOVE THIS SCREW.. ALSO IN SAME AREA BUT LOWER THERE IS ONE 7MM SCREW THAT NEEDS TO BE REMOVED THAT HOLDS LOWER DASH PAD ITS FOUND BEHIND LOWER CORNER OF DASH PAD.( LOWER DASH PAD GAS PEDAL AREA )
"DON'T"!!! REMOVE THE FOUR 10MM BOLTS!!!! IN SAME AREA
NEXT REMOVE RADIO /AC CONTROL TRIM WITH THIN SCREW DRIVER OR PANEL TOOL IT HELD IN BY SIX CLIPS...NO NEED TO DISCONNET ANYTHING IT WILL STAY THERE HANGING!!
NEXT REMOVE TWO CENTER CONSOLE LOWER LARGE PLASTIC CLIPS BY FLOOR MATS. NEXT UNDER SQUARE BLACK RUBBER AT CENTER CONSOLE REMOVE ONE SILVER SCREW. MOVE SEATS FOWARD AND REMOVE TWO 8MM SCREWS FROM SIDES OF CENTER CONSOLE FROM BACK SEAT.
PRY CUP PANEL SECTION THAT WAS HELD DOWN BY SILVER SCREW ...PRY UP TOP HALF OF CONSOLE STARTING FROM SECTION WHERE ARMREST DOOR IS.. DISCONNECT LIGHTER PLUG AND REMOVE PANEL .
NOW YOU WILL SEE SIX SCREWS STARTING FROM BELOW RADIO TRIM WORKING BACK TO ARMREST DOOR

Dec 04, 2010 | 2004 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Looking to repair rocker panels want to remove plastic panel first with out breaking clips that attach to body


Your best bet would be to check your local area for stores that carry auto paint and body work supplies. These are not "auto parts" stores. They are true paint/body work stores where you can purchase supplies to repair body work and repaint vehicles. Here in Minneapolis, we have quite a few. They have a specialty tool for this purpose. Your other option (if the vehicle is driveable) is to drive to a local autobody shop and ask them to pop it off. It'll take them about 5 minutes to do and depending on the shop, may not even charge you if it's a slow day.

Jun 23, 2010 | 1998 Pontiac Trans

1 Answer

I need to replace a rear seat belt in a 1997 Ford Tarsus. Does any know the best way to access the assembly? In addition, are there any diagrams available that show the connection points?


please don't forget to rate, thx.

Retractor and Tongue—Sedan
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Safety Belt Bolt Bit T77L-2100A
NOTE: Safety Belt Bolt Bit T77L-2100-A should be used for safety belt removal and installation.

Removal
  1. Remove rear seat cushion. Refer to Section 01-10 .
Seat Cushion, Rear Sedan
Removal
  1. Apply knee pressure to lower front portion of the rear seat cushion. Push rearward to disengage rear seat cushion pad and frame (600A88) from rear seat cushion front retainers (63370).
  1. Remove rear seat cushion from vehicle.
  1. Remove rear seat back. Refer to Section 01-10 .
Seat Back, Rear 60/40 Split Bench—Sedan
Removal
  1. NOTE: Safety belt bolts do not secure seat back to vehicle.

    Remove rear seat cushion as described.
  1. Fold down back seat and remove two bolts in the center of each seat back striker plates.
  1. Remove two bolts from outboard rear seat back frame retaining brackets.
  1. Lift seat back up and pull forward to remove from vehicle.
  1. Remove panel (52018) and quarter trim panel (31012). Refer to Section 01-05 .
Trim Panel, Quarter—Sedan Removal
  1. Remove rear seat. Refer to Section 01-10 .
  1. Pull up on rear section of rear door scuff plate that overlaps lower quarter trim panel.
  1. Pull lower quarter trim panel away from body.
  1. Remove safety belt retaining bolt.
  1. Feed safety belt through lower quarter trim panel.
  1. Remove safety belt anchor plate-to-sill bolt from quarter panel.
  1. Remove retractor anchor nut and retractor from rear quarter panel.
  1. Remove upper seat belt anchor bolt and anchor from upper rear quarter panel.
  1. Slide anchor plate end of safety belt through the openings in the quarter trim panel.
  1. Remove outboard front safety belt retractor and tongue (611B08) from the vehicle.


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    Item Part Number Description 1 386277-S190 Bolt (Part of 611B68) 2 31012 Upper Rear Quarter Trim Panel 3 611B60 Retractor and Tongue 4 N800937-S190 Nut 5 389370-S190 Bolt 6 — Rear Quarter Panel (Part of Body) 7 52018 Lower Rear Quarter Trim Panel 8 — Mounting Stud (Part of Body)
  1. Remove seat belt anchor bolt and retractor and tongue from rear deck panel.


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Installation
  1. To install, reverse Removal procedure.
  1. Make sure the safety belt webbing is not twisted. If it is, remove the twist.
  1. Tighten retractor anchor bolt and safety belt anchor plate-to-sill bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Check the restraint system for proper operation.

Jun 30, 2009 | 1997 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Lower body side cladding or molding im trying to find the piece on the front passenger door


I am parting several 93-97 Intrepid, Intrepid Sport, and Intrepid ES....which part of the ground effects do you need, door part(which door) or the rocker panel part (front or rear, left or rght)....email me at convert63@hotmail.com

May 24, 2009 | 1997 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Front fender removal


Hiya... here's the details of fender removal/installation:
the left-side (same for right-side) fender has 6 bolts attached to the "sidebody" frame.
The bolt location:
3 are on the top fender-easy to find when hood is open,
1 is hidden at the rear of top inner fender-just open the left-front door wide to find it (early equinoxes had foam-like noise absorber material in it, just remove it from underneath fender after the wheelwell liner is removed),
1 bolt is hidden at bottom of front fender area at headlight/bumper area-you need to remove plastic wheelwell liner to gain access,
1 bolt is hidden at bottom of rear fender area where the black plastic rocker panel meets below the fender...
THIS area is probably the most difficult task to do since it requires you to remove a small bolt found on the front of rocker panel behind the front-left wheel then use a flat screwdriver or clip removal tool to pry open the black plastic **clip's 'dime-sized' head prior to pull out the clip's body (it has 8 clips underneath the chassis) then use your hands to grasp the rocker panel underneath, pull it down-toward you...this should do it....USE CARE during rocker panel and clip removal/installation so you don't break the clips!
It also has yellow plastic clips inside the rocker panel (used as a guide during installation into rocker sill holes-use caution not to break it)
**note: early equinoxes had rocker panel clips that you can actually pull it out from the hole, while later equinoxes has 'built-in' clips inside rocker panels that you don't see the clip heads below it due to engineering part design change**
Be sure to exercise care when handing this task!

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Nov 20, 2008 | 2005 Chevrolet Equinox

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