I HAVE VERY LOW HOT AIR COMES IN THE CABIN ALTHOUGH THE FAN WORKING PROPERLY CHECKED HEATER HOSE AT NORMAL OPERATING ENGINE TEMPERATURE ONE HOSE VERY HOT CAN NOT HOLD IN HAND THE SECOND ONE FAR LESS HOT CAN EASILY HOLD IN HAND. CAN SOME ONE HELP WHAT IS RESOLUTION
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Re: 1989 NISSAN MAXXIMA LOW HEAT IN CABIN
Could be a blocked heater core (the part inside the dash that the hot water runs thru), or the heater blend door motor not operating (the part that allows the air from the heater into the vents), or a broken blend door shaft, or something similar. Most of these would require a workshop to attend to them, although you could try flushing out the heater core, by removing those hoses you spoke about from the pipes they go onto at the firewall and directing water at a reasonable pressure (not high pressure like a steam cleaner) into one of the pipes to see if you get a whole lot of crud come out. This may or may not fix the problem and I recammend you take it to a garage and if cost is an issue just tell them you want it diagnosed, and to advise on a price to repair. Give them an upper limit on what you expect to pay for diagnosis as well.
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The Lincoln has a cabin air filter which filters outside air. It is probably plugged therefore the heater can only recirculate the the air inside the car. The results are windshield may clear but most other windows away from the heat stay fogged up.
Try changing the cabin air filter and see if it helps a great deal.
have 2002 altima,blower works no heat at idle and very little heat when accelerating.I changed carbon cabin filter,made sure little gear under dash to temp knob wasnt broken,flushed and bled system.Nothing worked so checked hoses to heater core and found inlet hose was hot,outlet hose was not.So investigated this problem and came to conclusion heater core was clogged.An easy way to check is to get car to normal running temp. put on heater and blowers at full.Go under dash on passenger side where counsel meets firewall,this is where heater core core inlet and outlet aluminum tubbing go through firewall,you will be able to feel both tubes one closest to you is outlet, so if this one is not hot and and other is your heater core is clogged.I detached both inlet and outlet hoses to heater core from water control valve.Then I blasted water with waterhose and nozzle set at jet,first through outlet hose to blow gunk out,then through inlet hose until water runs clear.Reatach hoses fill and bled system.heater works great nice and hot!
You can start with checking the fuse that is usually located in the engine compartment fuse panel...in there there may be a cooling fan relay that will need to be checked also...if these components check out..then sometimes the sensor on the engine for the cooling fan circuit may have become defective....usually it is located somewhere on the housing where the top radiator hose goes...you may have 2 different ones as the other is used for the temperature gauge
Since your blower is working and it is a heat issue,thats where we'll
start,First thing is have you checked the coolant level in the radiator when
engine is cold,make sure it is filled to top,next verify you have coolant in
reserve ,Start your van and get it up to normal operation temperature,If your
heat gauge on the dash works correctly it should be 190 degrees,Now lift the
hood and locate the two heater hoses going into the heater assembly at the fire
wall,Both hoses should be hot to hold on to,if both are hot and no heat inside
your problem will be the blend air door in heater assembly. if neither hose
is that hot you need to replace the thermostat in the engine to get it up to 195
degrees. if one hose is hot and one is luke warm then the heater core is
blocked and to blame. hope this helps you.
fazsoliz: If the A/C system is not properly charged, it will not cool properly. Usually it is noticed at low speeds because the compressor is turning slower. If you bring the RPM up, you would probably notice it would start to cool a little better.
HOWEVER, there is a danger if the system has been over charged and you do not have enough air flowing over the condenser to keep the head pressures down. The hotter it is outside and the more overcharged the system, the higher the pressures will be in the system. They can reach dangerously high pressures in excess of 300 psi. This can cause hoses to blow, a/c evaporators and condensers to fail and compressors to fail.
If the refrigerant is contaminated or if the system had been opened and had not been properly evacuated before charging, it could have moisture in it as well as air.
The fan which is driven by the engine is attached by a viscus coupling (designed to offer more resistance as it gets hotter, thus making the fan turn closer the the engine's rpm's). If this part is not working properly, it will not make the fan turn fast enough at slow speeds to draw the air over the a/c condenser and radiator.
I have found in very hot climates, that installing an electric fan in place of the engine driven fan made a vast improvement on the performance of the a/c at idle and low speeds. I have an old Mercedes diesel wagon which I converted from R-12 to 134-A.
The a/c would freeze you out on the highway, but you would be better off rolling the windows down in town. I removed the engine driven fan and installed an electric fan. Now the a/c will freeze you out at low speeds if you bring the rpm up to 1100, but is cold enough even at 700 rpm.
You must also check for any type of debris caught up in the a/c condenser. The more trash accumulated in the fins, the more difficulty it will have in dissipating heat. The fan schroud also must be on the radiator, otherwise the fan will have little effect in pulling
air over the condenser.
Also, put the system on recirculate after a minute or so. This way you will be cooling the air in the cabin and slowly bringing the temperature if the cabin air down and not having to fight the need to constantly cool hot air coming in from the intake vent.
I hope that what I have offeref for suggestions will help you.
There is no tap inside - heat for the cabin is dictated by whether air flows over the heater core or bypasses it. The core could be blocked - just pull both hoses off it and stick a garden hose in it, preferably in the reverse direction to normal flow.
First, check to make sure you are not low on coolant. Check hoses going to heater and see if they are getting hot.(one should be hot, the other should be slightly less hot but not cold or just warm) Check heater control valve to make sure that it is operating, Check that plenum door is opening properly inside the cabin, in the heater box. If you have done any work at all on cooling system, run the engine 'till it reaches operating temp with radiator cap off...sometimes htr core can become air-bound. Also...goes without saying, but make sure that engine reaches normal operating temp while driving. If not check thermostat!
Put your hand on the heater hoses as close to the fire wall as possible find out if both hoses are hot.Do this when the vehicle is cold allow car to heat up with heater open and running.If both equaly hot then heater core at fault.If different check water supply to cold hose.