Had a mechanic check out my car and hooked up computer. Ran a diagnostics on my car and came back with 3 not ready codes out of 5. Will not pass inspection like this. Was told the car has a reset button, but nobody can seem to tell me where it is. Can you help. Inspection up this month. Desperately need a solution.
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This is the problem your mechanic is going by code,code just point you in the direction , Its data, whats the fuel trim? Whats the freeze frame data? These are what you need,The CK ENG LT,looks at rationality,logic,open shorts and ground.You can have a 02 code,but the 02 is responding to the engine,Its data that the mechanic needs to know.
For the I6 engine....First thing I'd do is clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner for the first 2 codes, also change your oil.
P0014 is camshaft position solenoid actuator, probably dirty (change oil and clean this actuator)
P0017 deals with the same as above.
P0171 - Clean your MAF sensor, check for vaccum leaks around the resonator, did you hook the PVC hose back up?
P0860 is Gearshift module circuit low.......can take to a mechanic that has a Tech II or equal diagnostic computer, this can talk to the module to find out what the real deal is here.
The check engine light is basically telling you that your car's computer detected a fault, and usually those faults have a code that corresponds to a system or component. When your mechanic checked out your car, and cleared the code, did he tell you what the code was? You should have your car scanned again, and find out the exact code. If it was the same as the one your mechanic cleared, your car possibly has an intermittent problem, and he needs to dig deeper!
An O2 sensor code is a tricky one. It could mean SEVERAL different things, and I know how bad it sucks to hear this, but your best bet is to take it in and have a diagnostic ran on it at either a dealer or a good mechanic shop with a computer they can hook up to it. I had an "O2" code come up a while back on another car I used to have, and literally spent weeks and hundreds of dollars trying to fix it, and never did. Finally out of desperation took it in, paid the $90, and they found the problem and fixed it in like 30 minutes. Something I would have never even thought of was causing it (can't remember off the top of my head). After that I stopped wating time and money on check engine lights. One comes on in my car, I take it to have it ran for free at and auto parts store just to make sure it's not a loose gas cap or something, just to get an idea of what I'm looking at, then go and make an appointment to have to hooked up to a diagnostic computer to track down the problem. Good luck, and hope this helps save you some time and money.
Yep!... take it back to the mechanic and tell him/her to recheck the system (there's no such DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) as "bad electrical connection"... somebody's pulling your leg!
Whenever the 'CHECK ENGINE' (Service Engine Soon) light comes on, the ECU (Engine Control Unit) sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). These codes identify the particular engine management system which caused the light to come on.
You'll need to use/find an OBDII (On-Board Diagnostic) Scanner to retrieve any code(s) which may have been stored in the ECU computer. Afterward, we might be able to help you DIAGNOSE the problem and perhaps eventually fix the problem.
well its kinda hard to tell whats the actual problem bc every thing is run by computer on ur vehicle but it could be a sensor of some sort or computer problem but its a good thing that the check engine light came on that mean it logged a diagnostic code and a professional mechanic can hook up a diagnostic computer to the car and see waht code it is and should be able to fix the problem for u good luck
Check the Fuel Pump Relay, it may be malfunctioning and need replaced. Also, in some vechicles, if the batter is disconnected and reconnected, the service engine light will come on from time to time, going off and on simultaneously. Have a diagnostics done to see if any codes show up. If no codes appear, then have them all cleared and drive for another 200 miles. Sometimes the computer will need to be cleared a couple times before the light will stay off. Make sure that all fuses and relays are good, and securey in place. Check all factory installed lights to make sure they are good, and securly in place as well.
Yes, that sounds correct to be calibrated.and probably is what is causing your problem. Mass air flow sensors hardly ever go bad. They get dirty and set a code. Garages will try to sell you one when you can clean it with a throttle body cleaner. If you have your old one, clean it and put it back on, try it to see if it works better.