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If none of the mirrors or locks work, then you will very likely find a blown MIR/LCK Fuse #7 (10 Amp) in the underhood fuse block. If this is the case, you need to find out WHY the fuse blew because if you simply replace it, it will most likely do it again. Otherwise, the locks and mirrors also connect to the Body Control Module (BCM). I would recommend scanning the BCM for fault codes.
The windows are a completely separate circuit. They have nothing in common with the mirrors or locks other than than that they all ultimately get power from the battery and the circuits run through the umbilicals that go between the body and the doors.
If none of the windows are working, the most likely cause is an open power circuit or open ground circuit at the driver's door. This could be either a bad master control switch or is could be that the wires inside the umbilical are broken (fairly common).
First, check all fuses to make sure that none are blown.
If the door lock switch works on the passenger side, then the drivers side door lock switch is probably faulty. Use a multi-meter to test the Drivers Side Door Lock Switch (Black and Pink/Light Green wires unlock the vehicle, and the Black and Pink/Yellow wires lock the vehicle) If the switch is tested and found to be operating properly, you may have a faulty Body Security Module or Drivers Side Door Lock Actuator.
If neither of your Power Mirrors are working, you probably have a faulty Exterior Rear View Mirror Switch, Power Mirror Module, or blown Central Junction Box Fuse.
If none of your Power Windows are working, you probably have a faulty Accessory Delay Relay or a blown fuse in your Central Junction Box or a faulty Master Window Adjust Switch (all of the Power Window Switches feed through this Master Window Switch). If the Power Windows didn't stop working at the same time, you may have faulty Window Adjust Switches, or faulty Power Window Motors, this is very unlikely though. It would also be a good idea to inspect the wiring for any obvious damage.
I dont think that anything to do with the rear hatch lift supports have anything to do with a wiring issue, however I have recently discovered that there are so many 98 models that were put together in many different factories world-wide that it is the most problematic jeep without uniform or typical related problems haha...but first thing I would do, generally the windows and locks all operate based on the drivers master controls located on the door, you should check the wiring connection on the inside of the door panel and if that is the problem more than likely you will have to replace that module
Your chevy uses two fuses for the system. The power lock actuators are on the 15 amp fuse inside the truck. The fuse for the switches (locks and mirrors) are under the hood. For 99 to 04 (I think those are the years) there is a TSB on replacing the 3 amp fuse under the hood with a 5 amp fuse because this is a well known problem of having these blow.
Your drivers side window is a different issue. If the rest are working your problem is in the motor or getting power to the motor. The wires that go from the body to the door often crack and break with the opening and closing of the door.