Truck was running fine,4000k on new engine,driving on freeway 105 k.sudden noise ,as if motor is working harder and lose of power.No gauge changes witnessed.kept driving home.When hard accelleration is attempted, only loud strugling noise a howell or racing ,no banging or clicking .It does shift the three times in drive but seems to really struggle to get there,and really loud when pushed or if kicked into pass.Got home np.proceeded to check distributor cap,fluids,rotor,timing,all checked good .exhaust system looks fine and at idle runs and starts nicely.
Sounds as if you may be looking in the wrong spot. If different gearing is drastically changing the symptoms you may want to check the trans. or torque converter. sudden pop with engine rpm increase and lack of power sounds like possible band breakage in transmission or impellor breakage in torque converter.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This could be oil that built up in the exhaust system when you still had the damaged worn out turbo on the engine. Turbo fins rubbing on the housing do not make a chatter noise, as the turbo is spinning at 20,000 RPM. the chatter could be a lose baffle in the exhaust system. Have you run it long enough to burn out the oil leaked by the previous turbo
There are a few possibilities that come to mind.
3K RPM is generally about the break-even point for when Turbo boost would kick in. There is a dump valve on the turbo system that opens up and vents the extra turbo pressure under high-rpm situations where the boost isn't needed - say high but steady speed on a freeway. If the dump valve system is malfunctioning, then that anticipated turbo run-up in power won't happen.
Revving fine when in neutral may not tell you much, other than that the engine can rev. The gating system will (or should) run differently under load - whether climbing a hill or accelerating, this is where you want the turbo boost to give you the extra power. THat's where the exhaust gate should stay shut, or mostly shut, to allow the turbo to force more air into the pistons.
You might want to check whether the APC (Automatic Performance Control) for the turbo has a separate fuse. (The name might be different on your model, I'm remembering from my 80s/90s era Saabs). If the fuse is blown, that could also lead to lame performance, especially as I'd imagine that the system would be built to fail or go to full open if the APC fails or loses power - that'd keep people from having run-away power that they can't manage.
www.teslamotors.com/.../sudden-loss-power-while-driving-... Tesla Motors
Dec 16, 2014 - 31 posts - 21 authors
My car is back at the factory getting "worked on"...sudden loss of Power and control while driving on the freeway...has anyone else experienced this? ... My son was driving his '04 Volvo on the highway, when all of the sudden the car started slowing down, despite how much he ... Last I heard they were 60.
This will happen when the clutch in the starter drive is bad. You indicate you replaced the starter. Was it a new, reman or used unit? We would usually replace the starter drive assembly to correct this condition.
for one thing the cabureter need rebuilding, and the choke repaired, fix that exhaust leak, most of what you describe relates to fuel, also run some combustion cleaner through the engine, its been running rich and there are deposits causin dieseling when you shut it off, all of this is easy for an older mechanic
The first thing I would recommend is that you change your fuel filter and recheck your fuel pressure once you do that. If is persists I would check your fuel pressure regulator as well. A fuel pressure regulator for a 1997 GMC K2500 ran about $45.00 and a fuel filter runs about $7-10.00. That's a lot cheaper to go that route first than to have to spend $350.00 for a new (Lifetime Warrenty) fuel pump that comes with a new sock and sending unit.