Question about 1997 Buick Skylark

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Heater vacuume the engine seems to be different than the original. the vacuume lines seem to be not hooked up.

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You will have to figure out if it is or not and get a vacuume diagram for the engine and the car and see which ones are which

Posted on Nov 12, 2008

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Where Do The Vacuum Lines Hook Up At?


Engine vacuum is created in the intake manifold, so that is where all vacuum lines originate. There are many applications for vacuum, a few are for emissions, others for the brake booster, cruise control, A/C-heater assembly, and so on. You would need a diagram of the vacuum lines for your vehicle to sort them all out. Look for a sticker under the hood, most cars show a diagram.

Oct 25, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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I have an 91 bronco with an automatic transmission that wont shift on its own. It will shift fine if you run it through the gears automatically,but doesn't shift when its in drive.


91-bronco-automatic-transmission-wont-h3u3bvaxgt5rbqkhjnnyjnme-5-0.jpg
this is the modulator this one is pre-adjusted for A4ld
91-bronco-automatic-transmission-wont-h3u3bvaxgt5rbqkhjnnyjnme-5-2.jpg
this is the other one that is adjustable for the c-6 trans
91-bronco-automatic-transmission-wont-h3u3bvaxgt5rbqkhjnnyjnme-5-5.jpg
E40D trans they are all different and maybe you'll find it now there is 4.9 motor 5.0 5.8 and all can come with A4ld /E40D / or C6 transmission look for broken or disconnected vacuum lines or if the engine is running rough you must correct the running condition because you are loosing vacuum inches and the trans needs vacuum at a certain level to shift if the engine stutters your loosing the vacuum and it will never shift that's what this sounds like to me or that modulator needs adjustment or to be replaced later man! it's party time!

Mar 20, 2015 | 1991 Ford Bronco

2 Answers

Replaced clutch then it seemed like there wasnt enough pressure to release it so i have since replaced the slave cylinder no differance so i took a C clamp and worked it in place of the slave cylinder and...


These and Blazers were notoriously hard to bleed the air out of the system. I actually had to make up a clutch reservoir cap with a nipple on the top so I could hook it up to a vacuum pump. With the system full, try to attach a vacuum pump (hand operated one works fine) over top of the reservoir, or if need be to the feed line to the master cylinder. Apply vacuum until you can see fluid, soon you should see bubbles in the line. Maintain constant vacuum until all air is gone the system should be fully functional after that.

Mar 19, 2011 | 1995 GMC Sierra C1500

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We replaced the thermostat in ford f150 but heater still blows cold air


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telemachus
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First, if the engine seems to take forever to warm up, you may have a stuck (open) thermostat. Replacing the thermostat would help get your engine to warm up quickly and maintain the proper running temperature of about 180 deg F. This would solve your heater woes.

However, if the engine warms up normally but the heater just doesn't seem to put out, check the heater inlet valve. This valve is usually next to the firewall on the engine side and is activated by cable(s) or vacuum lines. It is common to find that the valve cables have frozen, the cable ends have broken off, or the vacuum lines are disconnected or broken. Another common problem on vacuum run valves is that the vacuum diaphragm that operates the valve has failed. The diaphragm won't "hold a vacuum" meaning that it leaks and won't operate the heater valve.

If all that seems to work okay. The heater core could be getting warm coolant through it but the underdash heater air handler box has a movable door inside that is not in the requested position. These doors are operated by cables or vacuum lines---so same checkout as above.

Jan 31, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Weber carb vacuum lines


Hookups vary from carb to carb. there are two kinds of vacuum: full signal at all times from the manifold or carb base, and delayed: vacuum that only is present with the throttle either closed or open (depending upon way the carb is internally ported.) I'm fairly certain that vacuum to the t case is full signal. vacuum to the advance is an either or thing. Some engines "like" full vacuum there, others don't. It's easy to tell though...if the engine wants to "lay down" when taking off from a standstill with advance attached one way, attach the other way and see if it makes a difference. Also you can check MPG in different positions and decide what works best if no "off the line" difference is observed. Make sure that the advance diaphragm is good or nothing will work correctly either way.

Nov 16, 2009 | 1987 Jeep Wrangler

1 Answer

1993 Toyota Paseo - Engine dies when clutch depressed


Absolutly, Your idle control valve at the end of your fuel rail has a vacuum line and its sensitive to pressure changes. One way to double check that would be to hook everything up normally and pull that vacuum line off your idle control valve. Are the symptoms the same?

Jun 04, 2009 | 1993 Toyota Paseo

1 Answer

FINISHED HEAD SWAP, SAMURAI WON'T START.


piston rings worn,,oiling up plugs, and cousin back pressure.Thats why you have oil blowing out every where.

May 27, 2009 | 1987 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

1985 mercedes benz 190D, are there anyone out there that can send me a diagram overview of the vacuum lines on the engine. i have 4 to 5 vacuum iines thats not hook up, causing my engine not to turn off....


hello,i already sent you the diagram in fixya...it seems you have a problem in viewing it... so i uploaded it in rapidshare and here is the link to download it....

http://rapidshare.com/files/226590130/function_diagram_of_model_201_190_D_.jpg.html

thanks..you can use a photo viewer preferably Picasa Photo Viewer to see the diagram in high definition...just inform me if you have downloaded the copy...

Apr 27, 2009 | 1985 Mercedes-Benz 190

1 Answer

1988 Chevrolet 1500 V-8 It idles high and won't start the first


could be the fuel pressure regulator. if too much fuel pressure it would act like the choke is on. as with all fuel injection, the pressure to the injectors vary according to the demand from the engine. It can run anywhere from 12psi to 15psi at idle to 30 psi plus when in demand for power. unplug the vacuum line from the pressure regulator while idling and see if the engine acts different. if not the regulator could be at fault. it will be a round barrel about 1.5" in diameter mounted in the return line with a small vacuum line running to it. while you have it off check the line with your finger for vacuum. mike

Jan 06, 2009 | 1988 Chevrolet K1500

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