Question about 2000 Ford F350 Super Duty Super Cab

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F350 super duty deisel front brake locking up

My 2001 F350 front brakes will sometimes lock up. Bleeding them will release them.

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SOURCE: Bleeding Brakes on a 2001 Silverado Z71

Tony,

When bleeding brakes after the system has been opened for service (you didn't say if you were doing any work on the master cylinder) you should start with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder, which is the righ rear. Fill the master cylinder, then have an assitant "pump up" the brake pedal. Tell them to hold it down firmly, then open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder(s). Do not release the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder valve again. You'll know when the air is out - there won't be any more bubbles. Since this vehicle is 2001, this would be a great opportunity to flush the system. Just make sure you have enough brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your vehicle). Good luck!

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

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SOURCE: bleeding brakes 2000 suburban wsith ab

Why were the brake lines replaced?

Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...

if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.

Posted on Sep 20, 2009

techbuster
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SOURCE: bleeding brake system how?

BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM

Make sure one end of the Jeep is raised (starting with the rear end) and secure on jack stands and the wheels on each side have been removed. If you have been working on the brakes, this should already be done.

Connect a clear rubber tube to the bleeder valve on the right rear brake caliper. Start with this end and side because it is farthest from the master cylinder.Place the tube's other end into a container partially filled with brake fluid.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper and have an assistant press on the brake pedal inside the Jeep. Look for a mixture of air and fluid to come out of the valve. Once all the air is purged and the fluid runs cleanly from the valve, close the screw and remove the tube.

Repeat the process for all four brakes. Move to the left rear next, followed by the right front and the left front. If you need to, reconnect the Jeep's rear wheels and lower the rear end before raising the front end and removing those wheels.

Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder periodically as you bleed the brakes. If the level drops below the needed fill line, add more fluid. Use fresh fluid, not any that you have bled from the brakes.

Start the Jeep's engine after bleeding all the brakes and press on the brake pedal. You might need to do this repeatedly to seat new brake pads you just installed. Turn off the engine and hold down on the pedal. Bleed the brakes again if the pedal sink within 15 to 20 seconds.

Posted on Dec 21, 2009

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This could be master cylinder not fully releasing. Is pedal fully coming back to the stop? It needs to so it uncovers the ports to let the pressure release.
Also, try loosening the bleeder screws just a little to see if the calipers release.

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hi from the uk have had this problem on a customers car b4 who had replaced frot calipers and pads and pedal went to floor on inspection of caliper i found that the steel spring clip that fits into two holes in the front face of caliper and must also locate behind the caliper carrierbehind two lugs was fitted incorrectly it had been fitted behind the outer pad resulting in when brake pedal off ?the caliper being floating type as it is known because it is fixed by two screw pins/bolts and moves on these pins/bolts as pads wear ? what happens is the spring fitted wrongly ? actually pushes against the outer pad and as a result the caliper piston is pushed back into its cylinder slightly as it moves on the locating pins/bolts resulting in pedal going to floor on 1st application but if pumped ? some brake pedal force is felt but is lost again when pedal released ? so try this ? remove the steel clips from both front calipers that retain caliper to carriers then press brake/pump pedal ? if as suggested above works? your pedal should pump up and remain ok when you release and still be firm when re applied ? all above is what i found on ford ford but many other models use similar calipers and spring locating recheck how this spring should locate hope this helps ? good luck

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Did you bleed the master cylinder before you put it in the vehicle?This usually makes it easier to bleed the entire brake system if this is done before you install the master cylinder.Other wise all you have done is put air in the brake system.The master cylinder kit usually comes with a bleeder kit.This is for bench bleeding the master.Hope this helps.Good luck.

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Brakes wont release


Was the leading input shaft adjusted correctly? Usually they come with a new one and has to be matched in length to your old one. If the old one was used I would bleed the system from the right rear, left rear, right front, & left front in that order. Always bleed from the furthest point first. Sometimes air in the lines will lock these up

May 24, 2009 | 1992 Ford F350

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Bleeding Brakes on a 2001 Silverado Z71


Tony,

When bleeding brakes after the system has been opened for service (you didn't say if you were doing any work on the master cylinder) you should start with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder, which is the righ rear. Fill the master cylinder, then have an assitant "pump up" the brake pedal. Tell them to hold it down firmly, then open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder(s). Do not release the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder valve again. You'll know when the air is out - there won't be any more bubbles. Since this vehicle is 2001, this would be a great opportunity to flush the system. Just make sure you have enough brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your vehicle). Good luck!

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s to check.

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