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Re: 2001 sephia timing belt
No you need to bring your number 1 cylinder to to dead center, ( T.D.C. ) this will align your crank shaft then you can adjust your you cam marks. You will need to be sure that your number 1 cylinder is on the firing side and not the exhaust side.
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the timming gear that the belt runs on has a mark (V cut in gear) to rear cover at about 12 o clock and crank pulley has timming mark for top dead centre, both cams have cut outs in rear that a special tool (camshaft stopper 5-8840-2592-0) locks into to hold cams in correct position, but can do without this, if the cam belt gear is off, the keyway should be at 12 o clock. the marks in the camshaft gears (dots) is for assembly of sissor gears to solid gears on camshafts that run together and they should match up only if you had this appart.
Remove the A/C compressor drive belt tensioner.
Timing belt & cover DOHC exploded view
Remove the crankshaft pulley.
Remove the mounting bolts and left timing belt cover.
Remove the mounting bolts and right timing belt cover.
Remove the mounting bolts and front timing belt cover.
Vehicles W/ M/T: Remove the timing belt guide.
Ensure that the timing belt rotation arrows are still visible. If the marks are worn off, place new rotation marks on the belt.
Timing belt alignment marks DOHC
Turn the crankshaft using a breaker bar and special adapter socket on the crankshaft. Align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket (1), left intake sprocket (2), left exhaust sprocket (3), right intake sprocket (4) and right exhaust sprocket (5) with the notches in cylinder block and timing belt cover.
Paint alignment marks on the timing belt at the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets timing marks.
CAUTION Do not turn the camshaft sprockets with the timing belt removed. The valves heads will contact each other causing the valve stems to bend.
Remove the lower right idler pulley.
Remove the timing belt.
Remove the upper right idler pulley.
Remove the lower left (toothed) idler pulley.
Remove the belt tensioner.
Hold the sprocket and remove the left intake and exhaust camshafts.
Hold the sprocket and remove the right intake and exhaust camshafts.
Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
Install the crankshaft sprocket.
Hold the sprocket and install the right intake and exhaust camshafts with the mounting bolts. Tighten 58 ft-lb (78 Nm).
Hold the sprocket and install the left intake and exhaust camshafts with the mounting bolts. Tighten 58 ft-lb (78 Nm).
Reset the automatic belt tensioner as follows:
Remove the mounting bolt and belt tensioner.
NOTE: Do not exceed more than 2,205 lb. (9,807 N).
Place the belt tensioner on a press. Press the adjuster rod down gradually (using more than 3 minutes) 66- lb (165 N) or more until the adjuster rod is aligned with the stop pin hole in the cylinder.
Insert a 0.08 in (2 mm) diameter pin or hex wrench into the pin hole to lock the adjuster rod.
Install the automatic belt tension adjuster with the mounting bolt. Tighten 18 ft-lb (25 Nm).
Install the lower left (toothed) idler pulley. Tighten 29 ft-lb (39 Nm).
Install the upper right idler pulley with the mounting bolt. Tighten 29 ft-lb (39 Nm).
Crankshaft sprocket and oil pump cover alignment marks 2.5L DOHC
Align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the mark on the oil pump cover.
Timing belt alignment marks DOHC
Align the single timing mark on the right exhaust camshaft sprocket with the notch on the timing belt cover.
When the single timing mark on the right exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with the notch on the timing belt cover, ensure that the double lines on the intake camshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets are aligned.
Align the single timing mark on the left exhaust camshaft sprocket with the notch on the timing belt cover by turning the sprocket counter clockwise (viewed from front of engine).
Ensure that the double lines on the intake camshaft and exhaust camshaft sprockets are aligned when the single timing mark on the left exhaust camshaft sprocket is aligned with the notch on the timing belt cover.
The camshafts can be rotated independently causing the valves heads to contact each other resulting in bent valve stems.
When the timing belt is removed the camshafts will turn to the lowest cam lobe position by the force of the valve springs. Before installing the timing belt the 4 camshafts are in the lowest lift position (valves closed).
When the camshafts are rotated to install the timing belts, # 2 intake and # 4 exhaust cam lobes of the left camshafts are held to push their corresponding valves down. In this position, these valves are held in the open position. Right camshafts are held so their cam lobes do not push the valves down.
The left camshafts must be rotated from the lowest lobe position to the position where the timing belt can be installed at the smallest possible angle in order to prevent intake and exhaust valve contact.
Camshaft sprockets rotation
Do not turn the camshafts in the direction shown in the illustration because the valves will open at the same time and contact each other.
CAUTION If the timing belt alignment is off the mark buy more than 3 teeth, the valves and pistons may have contact.
Timing belt alignment marks DOHC
Align the timing marks on the belt with the marks on the sprockets in the numerical order shown in the illustration.
Install the lower right idler pulley with the mounting bolt. Tighten 29 ft-lb (39 Nm).
Ensure that the timing mark alignment is correct and remove the tensioner stop pin.
Vehicles W/ M/T: Install the timing belt guide and temporarily tighten the mounting bolts.
Vehicles W/ M/T: Measure the clearance between the guide and timing belt. The clearance should measure 0.039±0.020 in (1.0±0.5 mm).
I hop you are replacing the belt and tensioner/ idler pulleys. the crank pulley has a notch approx 12'oclock. the cams will be marked rear cam "I" and front cam "E" .. put both letters at 12 o clock. there should be a notch at the top of the cover for the cams at 12 o clock. thats all there is to it. to tension the belt, after you have it all timed up. put some tension on it, tighten tensioner bolt, turn the engine 2 revolutions, then double check your marks, push down with you thumb between the cam sprokets with 20 lbs of force, the belt should delfect about 10MM if its too loose, loosen the tensione rbolt an dturn it tighter a little more an dck tension again. If you get it too tight it will whine and wear the cam journals, too loose and timing will not be correct.
I have a 2000 sephia 1800 dohc t6 and the cam marks are at 12 o"clock on the cam dears and on the block itself also on the crank gear and on the block you will have to take off the plastic cam gear covers to access these marks.Hope this is a help.
If your timing belt came off when the motor was running, there 2 possible scenarios:
Motors are interference (pistons hit valves if motor spins <=2 revolutions without a functioning belt/chain) or not.
1. if kia 1.8 motor is an "interference" engine ... major damage already occured, at best valve stems are bent and you have to pull the head to install new valves, at worst, a piston now has a hole in it and you get to do a full rebuild. I'm now praying for you;~).
2. if it's not an interference engine ... joy is you, you rotate the cams whichever way you want and pistons do not hit valves ... and as they say in England "Bobs your uncle" ... ask a Brit.
I'm guessing that Kia doesn't build an interference motor with a belt ... the dealer or any shop with access to a good paid automotive database can tell you if the motor is interference or not.
The standard explaination for rotating forward ... which is not necessarily clockwise, has to do with tensiong the belt and how you get the tensioner in the correct position to do its job ,,, which is to keep the timing belt from jumping teeth. Each motor can be slightly different for tensioning the belt, so you need the specific instructions for your year car with the 1.8 motor. If the manual says you need special Kia tool "XYZ" ... get it or an close equivalent, don't try to use a pair of vicegrips clamped to a screwdriver.
You need to spend $20 for a Haynes manual for your car. Now you or I might think for a minute that what they say in the haynes manual isn't the easiest way ... but then we would probably be wrong.
Having done several timing belts, engine rebuilds and general maintenance over the years ... I can tell you this sincerely ... advice from someone (haynes in your case) who has actaully done the job you are embarking on is worth more than $20 if you are doing a job that takes more than a couple of hours. The specific stepwise instructions they have will get you successfully to the place where you have a new timing belt and the motor runs right by the shortest path. And one of the biggest benefits in doing a job of any complexity, it that you have written stepwise reassembly procedure documented ... so you don't end up at step 17 in the reassembly ... just to realize you didn't do step 9 .. that now requires to take stuff apart for the second time !^%$@!
Good luck ... you'll feel great when the thing is purring again.