Question about 1990 Nissan Stanza

2 Answers

Front Right stud replacement

My problem is that the center nut (which the cotter pin is removed for), won't loosen up. The nut is a 36mm and I am turning counter clockwise, but the thing won't budge. I have tried extending the leverage w/ a longer poll but nothing happens.
Any tips or ideas for this hell?
-Thankx
Klaus


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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 710 Answers

Some of these nuts require some heat from a torch to break free, heat up the nut only to expand the metal without burning anything. If replacing the axle, a new nut should come with the axle because some of them are one time use only. Best of luck. Keep me posted please.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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  • Master
  • 1,586 Answers

Usually the torque spec for those nuts is pretty high, and they suffer from what I call "environmental torque" as well (exposure to the elements and to heat cycling that can cause it to seize). Your best bet first off to try, is to spray it down with PB Blaster several times, with maybe 15 minutes between sprays. This will keep it doused and allow it to penetrate. If you have some, or can get some, a penetrating oil like Deep Creep can work even better, as it can get down into gaps a millionth of an inch in size.

If that doesn't work, many tool rental places can rent you an electric impact gun for maybe $20/day or so. Something like that, which can give you an instantaneous blast of strong torque, can often break a stuck nut free. You can also put a flat-blade screwdriver against each flat side of the nut, one at a time, and whack the screwdriver handle with a hammer - sometimes this can break the seizing free.

At this point, you're down to chemical penetrants and brute force. I've found that one or more of these methods usually works for me.

Posted on Oct 20, 2008

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jshreader_9.jpgjshreader_8.jpg

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2. Remove tire and wheel assembly, then install modified outer seal protector No. J34754, or equivalent, Fig.3 .
3. Remove lower ball joint cotter pin and nut, then loosen ball joint from steering knuckle using tool No. J-29330, or equivalent.
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Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
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Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
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Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
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  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

I need to replace my ball joints. can you give me some tips on how to do this? I have never done this before and i would appreciate some pointers on what i need to do to get the job done. Thank you very...


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  6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

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  3. Remove the wheel.
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0900c1528008f64b.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


0900c1528008f64c.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


0900c1528008f64d.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series
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1 Answer

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REMOVAL:
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2. Remove the front wheel.

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12. get the front end aligned.

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