On the sohc engine there is a rubber elbow on back of the valve cover going over to a line at the fuel injection that cracks at about 100K miles and lets the engine **** air and it will idle horrible til you fix it. Check this and see if it's not your problem...I've had it happen to 3 sohc engines and the dealer wanted $400 to fix the first one for my friend...Took about 30 seconds to pop the hood and pull it off, 3 minutes to glue it back together, an hour to dry, and 30 seconds to reinstall it...
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check for vaccuum leaks.. try spraying brake cleaner around the lines and see if it changes anything with the idle spped.. if it sucks in some it will chug while you spray it.. That helps locate a leak..
If you've recently added (or oiled) a cotton air filter like a K&N, extra oil can foul the MAF sensor causing drivability issues. Most helpful thing you could do is pull the codes though and post them on here, as it could be many things... bad O2 sensor, intake leak past the MAF, failing fuel pressure regulator (my main guess) and others. It'd help if you listed what engine your car has as well and how many miles it has, and if you have this problem under load only or even when it is in idle. Pull the codes.
if you have 14 volts or more at the battery at 1000 rpms, the battery & alternator are fine. If you get the same surge when you turn the bower motor on high speed, it is just the normal load on the alternator as it puts out more current. The engine is supposed to compensate by kicking up the idle. It does this through the IAC, idle air control. You may need to clean the IAC passages and the throttle body passages. I also would clean the MAF sensor heated wires with carb cleaner or MAF sensor cleaner. The MAF is in the iar intake hose and has a 2 or 3 wire connector going to it. The heated wires are in the air stream. Then disconnect the battery for 2 hours to clear the "Keep alive memory"
It will relearn after you drive for 10 miles. May run rough for that time.
sorry but this advice is based on 35 years as a Ford dealer technican and 1000's of repairs. i still say time to trade it in on another low miles used one, not new used, it will nickel and dime u to dealth if you don't, trust me on this. put the fuel filter on check the fuel pressure (spec is 45 PSI) and keep your fingers crossed
System Too Lean (Bank 1) Symptoms include stalling at idle, rough idle, poor MPG, loss of power, high pitch sucking sound from the engine bay. This is typically caused by a vacuum leak. The most common cause is a hole in the elbow at the PCV valve. It may be hard to see so you'll want to pull it out to check it. Also look at the elbow that connects the PCV hose to the intake manifold. It can get a hole there as well. This is 90% caused by a vacuum leak and not the O2 sensor. Most people (ignorant ones) will just say it is the sensor because it set the code. That code is a good sensor reporting a lean condition. Just replacing the sensor without checking for other problems first would be like replacing an entire wire harness when a light goes out instead of checking the bulb and fuse first. Other causes can be a bad sensor, bad MAF, low fuel pressure, or an exhaust leak. To fix the elbows on the PCV valve you can pick up new ones from the HELP section of the local part store. The part numbers for the elbows from the Help section are: 47028 47029 The one that goes on the intake manifold fits the nipple on the manifold snugly. But, it doesn't fit snug on the line so you'll need to use a clamp on that part. The one on the PCV valve is a very tight fit at both ends. If you don't want to bother trying to rig this up, you can purchase a new line from Ford. The part number is: F8CZ-6853-CA.
I would start with a compressoin check. You should get more then 160 psi on each cylinder on a cold engine. If these numbers are low, then the timing belt is your likely issue. Since these engines are non-interference (don't let anyone tell you different) you can just put a new belt and pulley kit on and be done with it. I even have a how-to for this in my tips and tricks on my profile.
A bad MAF (mass air flow) sensor can cause rough running problems. This is easily tested by unplugging the MAF (4 or 6 wire plug) from the vehicle to see if running improves. The connector for the MAF can be found on the front of the airbox just after the air filter locking ring.
If that isn't the issue, a fuel pressure test is an order. You should see around 45 psi with the engine at idle and 60 psi with the engine off and key on.
hi when do it idle worst is it when its cold or hot how does it idle is it just low idle speed or is it up and down when did it start [just started or gradullay got worse] is there any check light on just post me back and lets see if we can solve your problem yates210456