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Re: rear e brake
Either there is a bind in the cable itself if its cable operated. with this typ of e brake they tend to rust and bind up . a good solution is to use wd-40 spray and work the cable back and forth so there is a free movement of the cable. if the e brake is hydraulic operated there should be a seperate bleeder for the e brake. just re-bleed the whole brake system with the e brake included. this should solve your problem. please rate this...thanks
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You will need a special tool for the back brakes,Autozone will loan it to you for 60 bucks,you will get it back when you return,I used it.I replaced brake pads front and back and both back rotors.The driver side rear had metal on metal,all disc brakes,brake pads on that rear side were completely worn down to metal,the driver side was like new,kept wondering why,replaced both rear rotors,put back together,then then I noticed where brake line hose went into brake caliber was leaking,so that caused the side with new like brake pads not to be gripping disc putting all brake pressure of that one side,so the copper fitting their was bad,put new one on and leak stopped.
The problem is likely to be the hardware wasn't as fine as you were led to believe. The brake is clearly not fully releasing and producing the all-important couple of thousandths of an inch clearance between the rotor and friction material.
Possible reasons are a build up of scale in the pad carrier and if stainless steel shim bearing surfaces are used it is often between the shims and the carrier.
Sometimes the caliper dust cover has been allowing water and dirt access to the piston and pressing the piston back into the caliper without first cleaning often results in a sticky caliper shortly after the pads have been replaced.
The parking brake could be badly or improperly adjusted, or it could be a perished brake hose.
A brake that has been overheating for a while is likely to shorten the life of the wheel bearing...
Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time. Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.
probably a dumb question, but if there is a backing plate, did you make sure it isnt bent and hitting the rotor? you never want to sand new rotors, although i dont think it would cause this concern. i would suggest lightly scuffing up the brake pads. this will eliminate any noise caused by the contact of the rotors and pads. if it goes away then you know its a problem with the pads/rotors.
scoring of only the inside rotors would make me think that possibly the caliper slides are frozen up. make sure they move quite freely on the slides. it is not uncommon for brake pads to score rotors though.
but brake noises at low speeds that dont' change when applying light brake pressure are usually some sort of metal or something contacting the rotor.
you need to grease the metal clips at the top and bottom of the pads (dont get grease on the rotor or pad though) and also spray some "disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads. it comes in a red can and the spray that comes out is like sticky red paint. do those 2 things and the squeals will be gone.
you need to open the caliper bleader valve and release the preasure out of the line. so that the brakes will retrat against the caliber. than you should be able to put them on the rotor. they might be a little snug but they will go on. than close the caliber. now you need to blead the brakes.
1a.Make sure that there is brake fluid in the resivoir.
1b.start the car and have it running until all the brakes have been blead up.
2.Go to the passengers rear and lossen the bleader valve.
3.have someone press the break until you see a steady flow of break fluid comeing out of the line.
4.once that has happend have them press the brake again and hold it to the floor.
5. tighten the bleader valve.
6.go to the drivers rear and follow steps 1-5 again
7.go to the passangers front follow steps 1-5 again
8. go to the driver side front and follow 1-5 again.
you might have to turn the wheel so the person can reach the bleader vavle up front.
Remember to check you fluid after every time you finish with a brake so you do not runn out of fluid and put more air into the lines..... also remeber to alway start with the brake farthest away from the resivoir. you always do them in order 1passanger rear2.drivers rear 3.passangers front. 4. drivers front.
if you need further assistance please let me know