Question about 1995 Mercury Villager
Is this something I can replace myself? I have replaced the timing belt and water pump myself recently. Looks like it's difficult to get to.
The diagnostic connector is located on the engine near the starter. However, there are four connectors in that location and without pictures it would be difficult to determine which is the proper one
Posted on Mar 08, 2009
it is a bit of a time consuming job it would be best to get a diagram to see where everything goes as this will help you alot otherwise take to a mechanic.
any feedback left would be great
Posted on Jul 01, 2008
SOURCE: Timing Belt
I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.
Hope this helps. I'd still buy the HAYNES manual.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
The squeeling noise you hear could be the bearings in your power steering pump, when bearings go bad they tend to make a squeeling noise.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Unfortunately, this is one of the most complex and time consuming operations, short of changing the engine/transmission that can be done to the car.
The heater core is mounted in a box, inside the passenger compartment, almost dead center behind the dashboard and is mounted directly on the firewall to allow the hoses to go through. If you put your hand just above the accellerator pedal, and go toward the center console, you'll find the heater core box.
There is no way to remove the heater core from the engine compartment. In fact, other than draining the radiator and removing the hose clamps and a bolt or two, youll have little interaction with the engine compartment.
Begin by disabling the air bag system, by removing all power from the vehicle. Be SURE the air bags are disabled as they are extremely dangerous if they activate while you are working under the dash.
Next remove the entire instrument panel, and all the decorative plastic. To do this you may have to remove the steering wheel also. Be sure to label everything as you go. Then remove all the heater controls. Once done, you should be able to access the black heater box that the core rests in. Remove that, and if you have loosened the hoses and screws in the engine compartment, the heater core will come free and you can replace it.
For a much better and more detailed explanation of how to do this, I used the Haynes Repair Manual. (Note, Im not affiliated with them, they just had the best description of the procedure.)
I dont really recommend doing this yourself unless you are a very patient and reasonably accomplished mechanic. This will involve removal of all the dash, instruments and controls, and frankly, even when the dealer did this, the car is never quite the same again.
One other hint, after replacing the heater core, use a length of good heavy copper wire to wrap around one of the hose entry points (metal to metal contact) and then ground the core to the engine block or frame. This will help prevent the electrolysis that killed the core the in the first place.
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
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