Question about 1992 GMC Sonoma

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1992 gmc sonoma pick up egr system diagnostic procedures. help?!

My truck just quit on me getting off the freeway. I jumped it and it started but I had to keep my foot on the gas because it kept trying to die. When I got home the truck wouldnt start again without a jump. All the pressures were fine. I fixed the starting problem by cleaning the battery posts and no more need for jumps. I've been told the problem is the EGR system. Truck symptoms as of now are smooth fast idle on cold start, rough serging idle when hot and when throttling up. So how do i fix it?? Help! Please?

The system types are:
engine tag:: 4.3 liter n3g4 3tbxe b2 nbo- 3e
house routing tag:: catalyst egr/twc/ho2s
vin # :: 1 g dcs14w8no820230

thank you.

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  • Anonymous Jan 21, 2009

    same problem.... I have cleaned the EGR and replaced the O2 sensor, still having issues. My truck has been acting like this for 2 weeks. The only code that our GM TECH1 scanner will read is that the exhaust is fuel rich. I work in a Chevrolet dealership service dept. and we are having trouble finding the problem. BTW, I have noticed a rotten egg smell and drasticaly increased fuel consumtion. Early morning cold start the truck runs fine, once it gets warmed up, the surging and stalling begin. Also, it seems as though mine is also dropping spark, as if the ignition system is completely cutting off then refiring.

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Exhaust Gas Recirculation systems do not cause you symtoms, when the EGR fails it leaks exhaust gases into the cylinders, this causes a very very rough idle and a stall, the valve gets hot when it leaks at idle. Run a self test on the ECM and try to get any trouble codes stored in it, Kragen auto I hear does this for free.

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

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To trouble shoot your rotten egg smell... have you checked your coolant level. Usaully when you smell a rotten egg smell from the exhaust it indicates that your engine is ingesting coolant. Possible causes are: blown head gasket, cracked waterjackets in one or more cylinders, intake manifold cracked or leaking manifold gasket at the heads. My buddy and I just got done changing out his intake manifold along with waterpump gasket, cooler line O-rings and oil pan gasket. He was finding that he was slowly loosing coolant, but nothing on the ground. I went to his exhaust and smelled it as it was running and it smelled like rotten eggs. That told me that he was ingesting his coolant. We checked around the intake manifold (plentum) gaskets and could see that things were looking damp. My friend did some checking around at the dealer and he found out tha GM has a lawsuit against DexCool (orange coolant) because their product was eating away the seals and mixing with the oil. My friend is driving a 2002 GMC Seirra (96,000 mi - 2nd owner) with the 5.7 liter (Aluminum heads). We pressure tested the coolant system and found that some of the coolant was coming out around the water pump seal as well. GM said that his truck wasn't on the list yet, but it could make the list soon so he's instructed to keep in touch. We also noticed the O-ring on the cooler line showed signs of failing because of the white crusty stain that tracked down the base of the head to the manifold. During all of this his truck seemed to be running fine. Before things got worse we decided to pull the Plastic (on his engine) intake manifold to look at the clip-on style gaskets. They looked bad. They are made of a type of silicone rubber and they looked like they were chemically melted or just like they were getting mishapen (kind of wavey looking in area's). We went to ADVANCED AUTOPARTS store (where we have received years of outstanding advise and quality parts) and queried the parts specialist who told us to also (because it's plastic and there have been known problems with the OEM intake manifold) check with a straight edge, the levelness of the mating surface on the intake manifold (gaskets removed of course). Numbers 2 & 4 intake ports had about a 0.040" gap under the straight edge. Even the silicone style gaskets when compressed can't bridge that gap effectively while under pressure. We searched the intake for cracks as well and found none, but to correct the intake problem we had to order a new intake from ADVANCED AUTOPARTS STORE and the new OEM standard replacement comes with a solution to the known problem and had thicker mating surfaces and the gaskets were embedded in the new design. while having the water pump off, and the intake manifold off we took the oportunity at and changed out his timing chain and gears along with his oilpan gasket that came with the FRAM water pump gasket kit. After making sure that his timing chain sprokets where aligned we put everything back together but opted to change out the AC Delco plugs for NGK Irridiums and OMG... Brother, there was no more leaks, no more throttle hesitation which is standard with OEM plugs and the truck set you back IN YOUR SEAT. The backend got started to float from left to right a rolling start of about 15mph to get out ahead of traffic that was just leaving the light and because of the recommendation of the reps at ADVANCED the truck runs like a Raped Ape. I litterally found myself searching for a break pedal on the passenger floor. LOL My buddy said that truck has NEVER run like that in the all the years that he has owned it. It always ran very clean and nice, but HOLY COW!!! He was grinning like the little school boy that just got his first kiss out on the school playground by cute little Lisa. Best of all... No more leaks and no more rotten egg smell.

You may not have all of these things going on with yours or maybe you do, but to address the smell I would look the engine over and pressure test the engine cooling system and if you're using the Orange coolant, GET RID OF IT before you spend approx $800.00 like my buddy. The coolant could also be causing your rough running engine. Coolant will choke up a cylinder causing your vehicle to run rough or irratic. We did the work in 2 days taking our time and making it right and he hasn't been happier ever since.

V/R,
Ford Guy

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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Fig. 11: Unfasten the EGR valve retaining bolts...


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Fig. 12: ...then remove the EGR valve from the vehicle


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