truck runs normal when first started. After full running temp is reached idle increases to the point that the truck will shutter going into gear from park and will get up to 20mph on its own. Someone has already backed adjuster screw out completly. I blocked off IAC valve, not as bad but still much to high. Blocked off vacum lines one at a time, no difference, sprayed T-Body cleaner on intake gaskets, no change in idle. When decelerating the engine will run up and done two or three times like its not sure what to do?
The first check you should do to solve this issue is a KOER and KOEO. More commonly known as "pulling codes". I have linked the instructions on how to "pull codes". In a nut-shell you need to use a length of wire or paperclip to "ground" a pin on your self test connector (under the hood, driver side). Then, you get in the truck and turn on the key and count the blinks of the check engine light (CEL). This is called a KOEO (key on, engine off) test. For the KOER (key on, engine running) you will need to warm the vehicle to operating temperature then go through series of "press the brake, turn the wheel, press the OD switch etc..." and it will test all of your sensors. Then, it will blink some codes at you once this process is complete. It might be annoying at first, until you get the steps memorized. However, once you've figured out how it works--it'll be a life-saver. Don't replace a component without out doing a KOEO or KOER, first; or your just wasting money. Hope this helps
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check that there is coolant or fluid in the radiator as a coolant temp sender cannot read air as it is a vital part of the injection system for the ecu to know if the engine is cold and if sender relays no reading it is telling the ecu that it needs to ritchen the fuel mixture (possibally the reason for the fast idle) to get the engine up to normal operating temp as soon as possible.it you live in a really cold climate a thermostat that is jamed in the open position will cause it a long time to reach a warm reading. hopefully it is just the sensor wire off the coolant temp sender and by replacing it will return ever thing to normal
Change the temperature control sensor to the front if the engine near radiator 1 start the truck let it run till you think it is at normal operating temperature 2 unplug the temp sensor if the idle changes then the sensor is bad
check the MAP sensor (manifold absolute pressure). The ECM (car computer) uses that to keep idle at minimum 750 RPM. It's normal for it to run high when cold. These small 4 banger motors typically run hot, and they won't run right IF they're NOT running hot, ergo the idle is usually high when it is cold so as to cause it to warm up quicker. If the RPM's drop below 750, suspect the MAP sensor, &/or ECM.
you may have air in coolant system you should have a bleeding point somewhere and good idea to change pressure cab too. Just becarefull engine coolant and heating system is a pressurized system that works on high temp. can cause a serious injuries!!Safety. you need to run the car on idle with heat on at high speed and open and close the bleeding valve with proper size and long reach tool till no air bubbles comeout make sure you run the car enough that thermostat opened and engine run on normal operation temp. for a while.good luck.
1. Injector cleaner.2. Does it have enough miles (75K-plus) to consider changing plugs?3. What's the air cleaner look like?4. Any codes showing?Here I am trying to give answers when I probably know less than you....Good luck.
These cars are funky and this is normal...gauges on all of the earlier cars are for general reference...checking the oil level manually while the car is running and warmed up is the most proper way to do this...generally speaking, your pressure should drop as the car warms up, but still reach 5 bar on full accelleration (928's have the same gauge). The oil level gauge will actually increase as the car warms up...the difference can be dramatic.
Before you start check the status of your choke. One that is stuck on will cause a high idle. If the choke checks out, proceed to the following:
You should have what's called a 2 needle carburetor. A larger screw adjustment for idle, and a smaller for high speed.
Start by adjusting your low speed (idle) needle until you reach the desired idle. I prefer about 850rpms. Do this with the engine running and adequately warmed so that your adjustments are not thrown off by the automatic choke.
Next slowly open up the high speed needle. As you open it your idle speed will gradually increase. Adust it in 1/8 turn increments, pausing after each adjustment to allow the changes to take affect. Keep opening it until you stop increasing your rpms, then take it back 1/8 of a turn.
Next readjust your idle mixture screw so that your idle is back down to 850rpms.
It is normal for oil pressure to be higher when the oil is cold. As the oil heats up, it will thin out. Since your oil pump is driven faster with the acceleration of the engine, your pressure will also increase. On a engine up to full temp, your oil pressure will probably be around 20 psi and maybe up to 60 at full load. But on a cold engine, you may see 60 psi at idle. I dont know if your high oil pressure is causing your vehicle to stall, but maybe your running the wrong weight/type of oil for your truck. If you live in a extreme cold area, you may want to look into a block heater to help warm up your engine faster.
Hondas are famous for this, my accord does it. This is normal UNLESS it still idles high after normal running temp. has occured. Watch your temp. gauge when it reaches normal temp tap the gas a little bit if the idle drops then it is fine