I recently saw the water gauge went up to hot (260) and look into the cause. When the van is idling, looks like the water pump is sliping. It will engauge and turn but then stopped for about 10-15 seconds and then it will go again. Seems like I need to replace the whole unit or parts of it?
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Overheating can be caused by many variables...How hot is overheating? Does your gauge register over 260% or does your hot kight come on? If so the problem would be related to other concerns too. Many cooling systems have a bleeder valve located on top of the thermostat housing...Is your coolant level low? Any leaks? The radiator cap can lead to overheating if defective...a low cost repair. Does your water pump belt make any noise? If so the belt could be slipping on the pump pulley...any drips from the bottom of the water pump (weep hole) usually mean it is time to replace the water pump. Also inspect all hoses for good connections, no leaks...a late response but hope this helps.
I'd still check the thermostat. Or basically just replace it. Have you ever drained all the antifreeze and flushed the system? Good time to do both. If the hose's get real hot that doesn't really mean the thermostat open. Wouldn't they get hot even if the thermostat didnt open.? If the thermostat was stuck open you'd would have cold air and low temp gauge. Then maybe hit a pump or something and have the thermostat stick closed and have high temp. Maybe water pump. Check it when you have the belt off. Spin, pull & push the water pump pulley around. I'd replaced my water pump at about 110,000 on a '97 dodge Dakota. My 97 never had a very good heater. Always heated up more after driving. Idle never got it warmed up.
the 4.3 engine has a problem with leaking intake manifold gaskets. check for leakage behind the water pump. did you change the thermostat? This controls the engine temp. check for rusty radiator cap and replace if worn
The easiest solution to the misfire is to go down the line and eliminate the things you have fixed or not fixed to help eliminate what is causing your misfire, click on this link below to better help you understand what you need to look at to solve your problem. http://www.obd-codes.com/p0300
Check coolant level, and possibly replace thermostat. When a thermostat gets stuck in the closed position, coolant does not circulate thru motor. Gauge stays midrange when driving, because motor is being cooled by air and or the fan. If car seems to operate completely normal, then the gauge is faulty.
tis the seson for fuel pumps, this is where i would start checking to see if there is a problem, try to turn the key on and off letting the pump build up presure and see if this lets you idle the van for a while again
if so you may have a problem with your fuel system, pump, presure regulator, filter, ect.
NORMAL JUMP AS THE ENGINE RPM INCREASES THE OIL PRESSURE GOES UP VERY FAST. I HAVE THE VAN, MY DOES THE SAME THING, U CAN TRY REPLACING THE OIL PRESSURE SENDER, BUT ONLY USE THE GM ORIG PART, AFTERMARKET ONES MAKE THE FLUCUATION WORSE..
It could be 3 things: Temp sensor, thermostat, or fan relay. Fans don't usually turn on until car has been idleing for a while. I first would change thermostat, then relay, then temp sensor. Coolant must be 50/50 mixture for water pump to have proper lubricant from antifreezer. Do not go any further than a 60water/40antifreeze mix
The only real way to answer your questions is for you to open the hood and look it over. Once it has cooled down, re-fill the cooling system (use water...it's cheaper and to do repair you will need to repalce it anyhow...Once full carefully look everything over to find where the leak is.Also make sure that the drivebelt is there. (from what you said, likely it is) If it's water pump, you will see coolant running out from under the pulley. Once you have looked everything over, if you have not found leak, start engine and close the cap...look again...as pressure builds, small leaks will become more obvious. If you don't find leak, remove the thermostat and change it. After changing stat, if problem persists, it's likely that you have either a plugged radiator or an internal engine gasket problem. If you have any auxiliary electric cooling fans, make sure they are working and also check the fan clutch on the mechanical fan (it should not excessively freewheel when hot). Whole testing, any time you replace the radiator cap you must allow engine to cool down before removing it again. Watch temp gauge while testing...don't allow engine to overheat.