There is no water gettin to the hose and when i got home i heard a sissing noise. i opened up the hood to see if i was getting any water to the hose and the hose to the radiator cap was barely getting any water going to it.
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A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.
3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.
Okay, it may be due to overheating, that may be the noise you heard, lets hope. first allow engine to cool, open radiator cap or the resivoir cap, which ever is the fill, remove the bleeder at top hose and fill radiator slowly until coolant comes out bleeder.
note if water pump was replaced due to leaking and engine was overheated at that time then it may be a good idea to replace the thermostat . after filling is done start engine and allow it to run. watch temperature if temp start to climb past half way shut engine down and let sit for 5min. then restart and check level, in res do not open cap . feel air from fan and see if it is getting hot, this may take up to a half hour but do not drive,
A few questions, does this jeep have an electric fan? when you heard the knocking was engine temp hot? If you start jeep cold does engine knock? Did this jeep get a new thermostat with waterpump job? did it overheat when pump went bad and why did water pump get replaced?
sorry for all the questions ,just trying to get all the info to help you .
When your water pump goes bad it will begin to grind. I had one I let got far to long and it sounded deafening when I opened the hood. You can open your hood and listen and see for yourself. The water pump is on the belt line, left side under the hood, last pulley toward the rear.
Now if your asking can an oil change effect the water pump? No, not at all. Water pumps go sporadically.
It would be odd that you heard no noises before the oil change and now the water pump is loud enough to take notice after the oil change. The bearings usually go a little slower than that.
I would be interested in some more of the details to this. And what your overall concerns are. I'd be happy to further. help. Otherwise get a second opinion on your cars condition.
If you can be more specific about the engine knock it might be helpful. I am assuming this knock happens after the engine warms up and can be heard while the engine is under a load. If it is a strong knock sound then it would be a crank shaft bearing. You may want to check the oil. Check for level and condition. If there are water droplets on the dip stick or anti-freeze in the oil, or oil in the anti-freeze, you could have a bad head-gasket. Redused oil pressure, pressure testing the cooling system, doing a cylinder compression test, could help in figuring it out. Also it is possible that it could be piston slap or the fly wheel is hitting inside the bell housing.
Have you checked your belts? A piece of belt may have come off and been slapping under your hood, and then fell off completely. While it was slapping, your computer would have detected the slow down of pulleys etc. and caused your engine light to come on. Then when the piece broke off, everything would be back to normal. Let me know!