Car is well maintained - but does have perks at times. Today, I stopped at a sign and the car just stopped. It took about two minutes to start. It sounded flooded - but I had been driving it for at least 15 minutes before it stopped. Any ideas? I was able to drive it again with numerous stops without a problem.
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My 1986 jaguar XJ6 was running fine until I took my car in for smog and the people adjusted my vehicle to pass smog. I went to pick the Car up after it passed smog and the vehicle is running as if it has dropped a cylinder, the Car is running rich and sputters when I excelerate. I took it back, and they can't remember what they did or how they adjusted the car. They said the vaccum wasn't right, please send me or show me a vaccum diagram for the XJ6 1986
Look for an IAC sensor (motor) Idle Air Control. Usually located on side & front of throttle body. Not 100% sure which type you'll have but if you have pintle type (pointed end) Remove it, spray it well with throttle body cleaner as well as port it came from, and retry. If it cures it temporarily & starts to do it again, replace it.
If you jumped the car placing the black to the battery not the trunk latch there is a good chance you could have blown the relays. Been there and done that exact problem, i fixed it by replacing the window switch (relay is licated inside) and the relays on both seats.
The last Jaguar on which I corrected this problem had a nut loosen on the lock mechanism. I took out the rear seat and then the parcel shelf covering and then cut an access hole into the trunk.
That was a 1987 XJ6. I am not certain that you have similar access due to fuel tank location. If you take this on, be aware of that possibility.
I forgot to mention about the locks. Mine does the same thing...jumps three times. This is an indicator that one of the locks on the circuit is not functioning properly. Mine happens to be the right front but it could be any door including the boot lid.
The antenna could be a burnt motor; however, my 1987 XJ6 had the same issue. One day it came up just a bit and I was able to slowly coax it fully out. After I got it out, I took some olive oil and lubricated it just a bit--not a heavy lubrication--and it worked well after that although it would still sometimes stick.
The brake light may or may not be connected the the door problem but I would start with checking the ground wires. i have had a problem with the door lock relay and if that is blown the car will not start.
The antenna is just **** , they get dirty and just stop going up and down.
Many cars of that period could be reset by some ignition key sequence.
Try switching from the off position to the on (not start) several times within 15-30 seconds.
It won't hurt anything and might turn off the light.
If the problem is still present that caused the light to go on the first time, it will likely come on again after you start the engine.
I hope the reason for that alarm light has been since corrected.
Some cars needed to have the battery disconnected for several minutes to cancel the memory contents.
Newer cars will not likely respnd to that since flash memory is now common which retains the error code even without power.