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Re: Rear shock replacement
Ummm do you have the spring compressor attached?
If not, put the bolts back in before someone gets hurt.
Those are strut style.
The proper way to remove them is to install the spring compressor, compress the springs a little, then remove the bolts. Then you will be able to remove the assembly, remove the shocks, put the new ones in, and reinstall.
With out the spring compressor, the spring can "jump out" and possibly cause serious injury. That is a 1,000+ pound spring.
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Loosen and remove the upper nut and bolt. Compress the shock and wiggle it off the lower stud. Slide the new shock into place and tighten the lower nut. Pop the top of the shock into place and bolt the upper bolt through the holes the same way you removed it. Tighten the nus and bolt in the same point they were when you removed them. Then lower the car to the ground and you are done.lightdeal
the easiest way to replace the spring is to actually replace the spring and strut assembly together. most parts stores sell what they refer to as a "quick strut assembly". all you would do at that point is unbolt the old strut assembly and bolt the quick strut one on. no need to compress the spring to replace the strut etc. the process would involve removing the wheel, removing 4-5 bolts, removing the old assembly and then bolting the new one on. the complete assembly at autozone should run you about $130-140. good luck with it
you don't repair it, you replace it. jack it up, remove the brakes, and all the brake assembly from that axle,, http://www.ehow.com/way_5731956_ford-rear-brake-replacement-instructions.html
then remove the bearing cap,, cotter pin, and nut from the spindle , ( you might want to replace the wheel bearing at the same time due to the bad axle ) remove the axle bolts,, and shock bolts, from the axle beam. remove axle beam assembly
If he is mechanically inclined - it is not a difficult job. Safety is the factor. Be sure vehicle is well blocks from moving forward or back. Use floor jacks to support the vehicle when up in the air. (chasis supported) and be sure rear end is supported when the shocks are being removed and replaces since the rear end will fall until the suspension supports after shocks are removed if not supported..
I had a similar problem about a year after having rear shocks replaced, turned out there is a round metal tube through the bushing at the top end of the shocks, if you tighten the mounting bolt down too tight these crack and allow a bit of movement which causes the clunk. Replacing the shocks (at another shop) solved the problem - two years ago, no recurrance. Take out the shocks and check that little metal tube (I'm sure it has a more technical name); if it is cracked, try to find replacements (otherwise you have to replace the entire shock) and be very careful when reinstalling them not to tighten the mounting bolts down too tightly. Don't know if maybe there is a torque specification for these mounts, perhaps a Haynes or Chiltons manual could help here. Good luck.
You will need to remove the rear seats to access the hole just above the shock.
Remove the bottom seat cushion first, then find the small bolts that hold the upper seat to the frame. Once removed, you will see access to the top of the shocks (might have a plastic covering the hole).
this job is easy enough the 4 bolts hold shock mounting plate undo plate with shock .attatched remove from car as you will probebly have to cut old shock to separate from plate due .to nuts being corroded on top of shock
if you bounce the car by putting your weight on the rear bumper with your knee you can test the rear shocks. If the car bounces more than once on the way up you need shocks. I generally replace shocks on new cars with factory installed shocks anywhere from 40,000 - 50,000 miles. There are bolts at the top and bottom of the shocks that will have to be removed. You can do this a little easier by removing the rear wheels and placing the car on Jack Stands.
bolts should be easily removed after breaking them loose. If someone replaced them and used nuts on the backside, it may present a problem & require cutting the heads off. Sometimes you can snake a distributor wrench above to grab nut but on most jeeps this is difficult because there isn't enough clearance. Really soak them down with good solvent at least twice several hours before attempting to remove.