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Re: could you tell me where the sensor coolant temp bwd...
Old messages but . . .
You might want to check your coolant for bubbles; you could have a blown headgasket between the engine's water jacket and a cylinder. If the gasket fails this way, it will force hot gases into the coolant path that will cause this rapid and intense heating. The gasket does not have to be failed much to cause this and the early stages won't cause a cylinder to misfire but on cooling, the coolant can enter the cylinder and produce misfires for a few seconds when first started and this can show up as a fouling of one plug which can even show signs of rust if examined. Also, check your oil dipstick for the color of your oil; it shouldn't look like Jergens lotion. At the same time, look into the coolant bottle to see what it looks like since a failed gasket can also cause oil to leak into the coolant. For the Jeep owner; there were three different engines for that vehicle and you didn't tell us which you have so that could be why you received no answer.They are all located in different areas.
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Did you check for applicable trouble codes? Anything? Some of the national brand auto stores will check codes for free.
Check the coolant temp sensor, if you haven't already? Some makes and models if you turn on the ac, the fan/s will run. If you unplug the coolant temp sensor, the fan may run.
I might want to use non--contact infrared temp gun just to double-check temp gage.
Have you ever checked thermostat or coolant flow through the radiator. I understand it only heats at idle.
If the engine is running hot you may be low on coolant. Check this first. If coolant level ok, the rad fan may not be working to cool the engine. If the AC is operational, when you turn it on, the radiator fan should come on telling you the fan motor is ok. You still may have an issue with a fan control related to temperature. This can be caused by a fan relay/wiring/temp sensor/ecm. Make sure the thermostat is functioning properly as well
Sounds like your cooling fans on the radiator are not working. The fans are activated by a thermol switch on the engine or radiator reading the coolant temperature and an A/C switch. When the coolant is too hot the fans should activate cooling the system down. And, when the A/C is on the fans should also activate in order to cool the condensate so the A/C would work.
When you are driving, the movement of the vehicle throught he air is providing enough air flow to keep things cool and functional.
I would check the radiator fan fuse or fuses first. If those are OK I would try to run the fans with 12 volts and a ground that I supply just to see if the fan motor(s) actually run when powered. If the fan don't run when powered then the fans are bad and will need to be replaced. If the fans do run when you power them manually, then something is not allowing the power to activate, like a relay, control unit, or wiring.
It will take a little diagnostics, but it is not too difficult to chase it down.
CHECK COOLING FAN SEE IF ITS RUNNING.IT NOT CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE AND RELAY.IF ALL IS GOOD HOTWIRE COOLANT FAN SEE IF IT RUNS.IF NO REPLACE FAN.IF YES CHECK FAN WIRING AND CODE SCAN VECHICLE FOR PCM FAULT CODE.
IF CAR OVERHEATING AT STANDSTILL OR IDLING IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE.COOLANT FAN NOT TURNING ON.MORE LIKELY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR NOT WORKING.USE A SCANNER TO CHECK COOLANT TEMPERATURE WHEN ENGINE HOT.IF TEMPERATURE READ LOW COOLANT TEMP.SENSOR BAD.IF SENSOR OKAY.CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE AND RELAY.ALSO HOTWIRE FAN TO SEE IF FAN MOTOR WORKING.IF NO REPLACE FAN MOTOR.IF FAN MOTOR GOOD FUSE AND RELAY COOLANT FAN MOTOR WIRE CONNECTOR IS DAMAGED OR HAS BROKEN WIRE.
Sensor on the engine sends info to the computer that triggers fan relay and sends power to fan. Most often problem is sensor or relay but quick check fan itself by hot wiring it to the battery Polarity is not an issue...if you get wrong it will run backwards. If it does not run, it's bad.