I have a 1998 bravada that always blows cold air. It is an automatic temperature control vehicle and I assume that it has something to do with the temp sensor but sure and don't know where the sensor is at.
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It Sounds Like You Have Either A Faulty Heater control Valve Or On The High Side A Bad ATC (Automatic Temperature Control). Check The Hoses That Go Into The Heater Core Both Should Be Hot At Normal Operating Temp. If The Outlet side Is cold Or Luke Warm You Have A Bad HCV.
It sounds like the system is fried. Based on the description, it is just pulling in the outside air and not doing anything to heat or cool the flow. Unfortunately, this is a job for your preferred mechanic.
did you burp the system after you where done. The heater d-core is the highest place in the cooling system and will be the first to collect an air pocket. Running the vehicle at idle with the cap off will help purge the air out.
The a/c will turn on any time the mode switch is on defrost. When the heat selector is turned to hot the air will first go through the a/c evaporator core and then through the heater core. When the heat selector is turned to cold air will only go through the evap core. So regardless if the a/c compressor is on or not with the heat selector on hot it should blow hot air.
Did the heat work before you replaced the other parts?
If not than it is possible that the heater core is plugged. Especially if the coolant was really dirty before you started.
A.B.S. stands for Antilock Brake System. The antilock braking system is an electronically controlled hydraulic system. Vacuum has absolutely nothing to do with your A.B.S. system or the light being on. To find the reason that this light keeps coming on, you must scan the Antilock Brake Control Module for fault codes and follow the troubleshooting chart for the related code. The most common problems with these systems are wheel speed sensor problems and vehicle speed sensor problems. (although it could be a number of other things including the hydraulic control unit)
I assume that "my heater is always blowing hot air" means that you cannot control the temperature.
The "blend-air" door in the HVAC housing is what controls how much of the air is directed through the heater core, and therefore the temperature of the air coming out the vents. On your vehicle, vacuum controls the "mode" door (which switches the airflow from defrost to vent or floor) and the air inlet door (which switces the intake air from outside air to inside air or "recirculate") The blend-air door is controlled by an electric motor. It is located on the upper, forward side of the HVAC housing and requires removal of the dash to gain access to it for replacement. This vehicle has a history of the blend-air door getting broken at the point where the actuator motor connects to the door. If the blend-air door is broken, the complete service plenum (HVAC housing) must be replaced because the door is is not available as a separate piece and the housing is glued shut and would have to be broken or cut open to replace the door if it were available. (Not one of Fords better ideas) There is also a Technical Service Bulletin for your vehicle which covers this subject.
Hi - There may be 2 separate problems. On my 1991 Lincoln Town Car, there is a Thermal Blower Lockout sensor that disables the heater from blowing until the engine temperature reaches a specific temperature. This way if you have vent or floor settings and 90 degrees set and it is winter, you won't get blasted with cold air. When the vehicle warms up, the TBL circuit enables the climate control to blow the hot air. If you use the flr/def instead of the floor or vent control, the TBL should not prevent the heater from working even with a cold engine. On my car, the TBL went bad and always prevented hot air from blowing on the floor and vent settings, even when the engine was hot. Another thing to check is a thermal limitor resistor. It is designed to cut off the blower at very hot temperatures, except if the blower fan is in the hi setting.
As far as the A/C is concerned, can you verify if the clutch is engaging or not? A rapid cycling of the clutch is an indication of low freon. If you are absolutely sure that you are fully charged on freon, I think there are 2 possible causes: (1) Bad pressure switch on the accumulator is indicating low freon that is telling the compressor not to work; (2) a blocked orifice tube.
This may be one or two different problems. One could be the climate control unit itself. Surprisingly the problem with the air not changing the source will likely be remedied by a reprogramming by a Volvo dealer. Defrost is the delfault outlet if there is a problem with that system. As for the dial not having detents and the cold instead of hot air in the pass side, that could be programming, a disconnect with the heater door for the passenger side or it could be the control unit. 98 is a difficult year to diagnose and the dealer is likely the only one who can properly diagnose this car. The download at the dealer is an inexpensive fix. If there is a mechanical problem within the air system that could prove more costly. I'm not sure how much the control unit for the climate control system, but there are usually quite a few on ebay. Good luck and I would suggest visiting the dealer first for this one as it is the least expensive fix and could very well be the only problem.
I have narrowed the problem to a non-functioning climate control acctuator (a mechanical vent door opening/closing unit that mixes warm and cold air) Unfortunately it is located high in the dash and requires entire removal of dash panel. Shop repair manual states a repair time of 5.2 hours... GM parts $260 actuator $75 door panel......Online parts $60 to $175