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Depends on what engine you have. All engines require the pan removal first. The 4 cylinder then has a pickup tube to remove, a windage tray, and then 2 bolts hold the pump on. The 6 cylinder is more complex, with an output tube, more complex cover, etc. Both have O rings to replace.
But I rarely see oil pumps go bad. If you have low oil pressure, it could be the relief valve, but what I would suggest is screwing a mechanical gauge into one of the oil pressure switch fittings. Worn connecting rod bearings are the most common cause of low oil pressure. So if you have the pan off, check rod bearing looseness. It is easy to replace rod bearings if no damage has been done to the crank yet.
Could be bearings, could also be partially clogged oil pickup unit , FILTER or bad oil pump. I would change oil filter if you haven't already done so and remove oil pan for inspection of pickup screen, testing of the oil pump and you can even check the condition of your bearings
it's not easy even for pro mechanic.
oil pan has to be droped , in order to repl. oil pump.
but I think you pump is ok , the problem is o-rings between oil pan and cyl. block , that's were you loosing oil pressure , which is again - oil pan has to come out.
Can't be done by a careful rookie.
Sounds like you have either an obstructed oil pump screen or a bearing beginning to go bad (generally rod bearings go first) You need to verify oil pressure with an external mechanical gauge or just drop the pan and remove the bearings. If they need replacing, use plasti-gauge to determine how much wear you have and replace with the proper bearing sizes. Without machining crank journals this is very important as one size does not fit all!!! Reason it happens more when warm is that the oil becomes thinner when hot and flows out the bearing sides much easier, lowering pressure. One note: if this has been going on for any length of time, it's not worthwhile to do a bearing change without removing and installing all bearings (requires engine removal) otherwise, repair will last only a few weeks at best.
You didn't say how many miles were on the truck or if there was any clunking down around the oil pan. If your pressure gauge is wandering, your oil pressure sending unit may be bad. If the sending unit is OK, it is time to drop the oil pan.
You may have to drop the tie rod or sway bar to get it out. Check the oil pick-up screen for blockage. If it is clear, check the oil pump for excess play. Replace if needed. If the screen is blocked, clean it by soaking in solvent, replace the oil pump, drop the rod and main bearing caps and examine the crank bearing surfaces. If they are in good condition, you can buy .001" undersized bearings. Lubricate generously and reassemble. Torque to the correct setting, then put the pan back on. This job can be done by one or two moderately skilled back yard mechanics if supplied with a case of beer.
If the bearing surfaces are scarred, take the crankshaft out and take it to a machine shop. You are going to have to take out the timing chain on the front end and unbolt the torque converter or flywheel from the back end of the crank. This job requires a good bit more skill, so unless you have an expert mechanic on speed dial, take it to a shop.
Likely cams are beginning to seize in the head. Usually this is the result of carbon plugging the oil pump pickup screen or internal oil passages. Changing the pump will not fix this unless your pump is inside the oil pan with pickup attached. If bearing surfaces on cam are damaged, you may be able to restore oil pressure but likely have already done internal engine damage which may extend to crank bearings as well. Generally at this point I recommend a replacement engine or vehicle. I really don't like telling people this. good luck