1982 Volvo 240
Timing belt replaced professionally 135,000
Well maintained until last year when my daughter moved to college
She reported the car had very little power and would not go over 45mph for the last week or so. Monday morning she showed up at our house in the morning stating that the car was running very rough and when she "pushed on the gas it wouldn't go" and had essentially idled all the way (2miles) and shut it off in front of the house.
I finally got around to looking at it this morning.
Would crank well but no start or even signs it wanted to.
Gas gauge read nearly empty, added 5 gals gas. No change to symptoms
removed coil wire from distributor and put near a metal bracked - good spark when cranked
Poured a tablespoon of gas into the power brake booster vacuum line, car fired and tried to run for a couple of seconds.
The electric fuel pump underneath is running and sounds smooth but just a bit noisier than i remember - never shuts off like my other cars after running for a few seconds - don't know if normal or not.
As I was looking at the engine I noticed a loose electrical connector on what appears to be a cylindrical servo sticking out of the intake manifold. Re-clipped but no change to problem.
How do I troubleshoot the fuel system? I have been a mechanic and have a decent set of tools but no shop or lift.
I wouldn't even mind taking it to the shop but would rather not pay for a tow truck.
Any tips or advice would be greatly appriciated!!!!
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: No start - good spark, no fuel
Hi hgudmund, If you have fuel injection, (the diagnosis will be different than for carbs)....What I would suggest, as a first step, replace the fuel filter....
If there is still no improvement, this is how the pump should operate with fuel injection. the pump should start when the ignition is turned on and after a short burst, cut out, until the engine is cranked up, at which time the pump will run all the time ....
Checking the fuel delivery can be dangerous without the correct equipment for the injection system.....You'll need a fuel pressure test guage....The injection pressure should run at around three and a half bar, minimum....if it's lower than that, you'll need to replace the pump....
There are more tips that I can pass to you, but before I do please let me know how you get on with the first stages....and let me know if we are in fact dealing with injection or carburation?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
you meant, car will not run right (unsaid)
so i unplugged the MAP sensor (forcing limp home mode)
when was last time car had fresh fuel.
when was last time car was a daily driver?> last week, last year?
by removing the map the limphome goes huge rich state.
so id say , the engine is in a very lean state and going to limphome
hides this situation.
why not post full symptoms , with all parts back on engine.
did do the 60k mile , tune up yet? if the cam belt snaps, say good by to a good engine. (boom) Timing belt, sparks and filters.?
1: cranks ok.?
2: wont start
3: is it flooding? or starving for fuel. spark plug tips dry or wet.
if spark is good all cylinders, (no engine option stated) then
i check timing, if off the belt (cam) slipped.
if the engine is flooding i do the flooding tests.
if its to lean i do the lean tests.
for the lean test i check the ECT , then fuel pressure.
the fuel pressure is 10 tests on a V6.
I can also test the MAP in 5min with a voltmeter, to see if its right.
here is the list ,
Good voltage 12vdc to the EFI starting and running.
Good engine, spec compression,
good spark and timed correctly if, off its the cam belt slipped,
there are simple tests for each.
i also make sure the EGR is not stuck open on all cars with this.
and that the ISC is not dead.(stuck and dirty)
Do it at 60,000 miles, it is cheaper than a damaged engine-Volvo had different recommendations:
All models - 1999MY: Replacement of timing belt and tensioner every 80,000 miles or 8 years.
1,6/1,8/2,0 - 2000-01MY: Replacement of timing belt and tensioner at the following intervals:
90,000 miles/8 years.
186,000 miles/16 years.
1,9T/2,0T - 2000MY: Replacement of timing belt and tensioner at the following intervals:
66,000 miles/6 years.
138,000 miles/12 years.
210,000 miles/18 years.
2,0T - 2001MY: Replacement of timing belt and tensioner at the following intervals:
90,000 miles/8 years.
186,000 miles/16 years.
All models - 2002MY : Replacement of timing belt and tensioner every 96,000 miles or 8 years.
The previous use and service history of the vehicle must always be taken into account.
Yes it needs to be replaced its already time for that.
IntervalsHere is what I recommend for maintenance intervals. There are exceptions to all of these including severe duty, which most northern cars fall into.
Change Transmission filter-30,000 miles, 90,000 and 150,000 miles and fluid at 60,000, 120,000 and 180,000 miles.
Change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months, unless you use Mobil One, in which case 6 months/6,000 miles.
Chassis lube every 3,000 miles, assuming there are fittings.
Spark plugs: Conventional plugs: 30,000 miles, Double platinum: every 50,000 miles (100,000 mile plugs are best to be changed well before that, although some can reach it).
Fuel filter: 35,000-40,000 miles. Unless it is in the tank. But if the tank is ever dropped, do it then
Ignition cap, rotor, wires: 60,000-80,000 miles. (if it has them).
Timing Belt, if applicible: 60,000 miles on many but check with gates or dayco or the manual or dealer, as many different intervals are now present.
Coolant flush -- green: 2 years/24,000 miles.
Coolant flush -- dex-cool or long life: 5 years/50,000 miles.
Tire rotation: 5,000-8,000 miles.
Alignment: 15,000-20,000 miles., unless tire wear is not a problem and car goes straight.
Brake fluid flush and power steering fluid flush: 2 years or when dirty or discolored.
Air filter, pcv valve and cabin air filter: as needed.
Professional fuel injection service: 40,000 miles.
Throttle bore plate cleaning: 20,000 miles.
Air induction service: 20,000 miles.
MaintenanceEvery auto manufacturer lists their required maintenance on their web sites and in the owners manual the maintenance service intervals vary between manufacturers.
Your car is a moving piece of machinery, it needs maintenance, if you want this car to last you need to service it. Do not just do the minimum recommended services that are listed in you service manual. Make sure you service your cooling system which prolongs the life of the radiator and water pump, and the power steering system, which will extend the life of your cars power-seeking pump and gear box or rack. It will cost you much more than you want to spend when you fail to maintain your car and larger problems surface. I recommend that you review your owners manual and get acquainted with a reputable auto repair facility. A good relationship with you car and your car's mechanic will benefit you in the long run, providing you with a long lasting and safe car.
At 30,000 miles you should also service your cooling system, transmission, fuel system and power steering; this should be repeated every 30k miles. I recommend flushes of the later mentioned items to prolong these systems' life span.
Have you checked for any error codes?
Since your car is an 850 you should check your fuel pump relay, which is infamous for causing intermittent starting problems. Open the hood and remove the fuse box cover (4 torx screws), revealing the relays. If one of them is a green one marked 103 you should replace it with the newer, improved red relay. A used relay is cheap and should do just fine. Also, you should be able to hear the fuel pump working when turning the ignition to on. After doing this a couple of times the pressure becomes high enough for the pump not to engage. If so wait for the pressure to drop before listening for it again. Here's a topic with some info on the relay and how to check the voltage at the pump:http://www.volvo-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=15505&st=80&p=80586&#entry80586 If fuel delivery is not the problem you should check for spark.If you do not have spark the problem is likely coil, camshaft position sensor or crankshaft position sensor. Good luck!
The same thing happened to my 94 volvo 960 the engine belt was having the same problem, i changed it the belt, it was fine for a few miles after that it just died, does not fire, not sure if it is getting fuel, but the mechanic says the timing belt went off. you may have to check the crank sensor on yours.
Go to www.FCPgroton.com and enter your make and year, then check under timing components. They sale a few different kits for this job. I would recommend doing the timimg belt, idler pulley, tensioner, water pump at serpentine belt at a minimum. you can check and see if you need to do the cam seals also one of their kits includes all these. I would only do those if they were leaking.