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You should never need to adjust the cable what i suspect here is the back brakes need looking at ,but before i can tell you how to do it i will need to know if its A drum brakes B disk rear with cable to caliper C rear disk with cable running to the interior of the disk and not to the caliper
If you are having problems with it holding you need to locate a large area that you can clear and back up in safely. You need to get up to about 5 miles and hour, in reverse, and stomp the brake pedal hard. This will activate the auto adjuster on the rear drums to tighten them a little at a time until you have the hold you desire. If those are not working have the rear drums and pads checked. The hand brake is nothing more than a Manual activation of the rear brakes operated by a cable attached to it. The cable itself may have an adjustment on it but that will make no difference if the pads are worn. Normally this adjustment for the cable is either under the vehicle or you will need to open up the center console so you can reach a twist adjuster. If your issue is a long movement area, having the pull the arm up too high, then the issue maybe cable stretch but I doubt that is the problem on a vehicle that new.
If equipped with an air bag, disconnect the negative battery cable and properly disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as detailed in Section 6 of this manual.
Remove the access cover at the rear of the console. In some cases, removing the console may be necessary for access. Loosen the adjusting nut until the cable ends can be disconnected from the equalizer. With the cables detached, the parking brake lever may be removed, if desired, by removing the mounting bolts holding it to the floor.
Loosen the lug nuts, then Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
Remove the rear wheels.
On disc brake equipped vehicles, pull out the lock pin, remove the clevis pin and remove the clip.
On drum brake equipped vehicles, remove the brake drum and brake shoes. Disconnect the cable from the backing plate.
Detach the cables from the cable guides and remove the cables from the vehicle.
Fit the cable loosely into place. Begin reattachment at the rear brake shoes or calipers. Make certain the cable is routed correctly and firmly seated in it mounts.
Connect the cable(s) at the lever inside the car.
Install the cable bracket retaining bolts. Do not allow the cable to become kinked or bent. Make certain the rubber boots are in place where the cables pass into the cabin.
Adjust the cables.
Lower the vehicle to the ground and check for proper brake operation.
If equipped, enable the SRS system and connect the negative battery cable.
Use a box-end wrench to depress the retaining tangs, then slide the cable out of the backing plate
Start with the rear console. Two screws on the sides, then open the console and pry up the plate in the bottom. Remove the screws under the plate. Pull emergency brake lever. Remove cup holder insert. Three more screws to remove. Now the console will come out when you lift it and pull it back out of the clips. Next remove the ashtray. One screw behind the ash tray two more for the cover. Disconnect wires. the stereo is accessible.
Which brake is on? Emergency brake (it could be over adjusted, or the brake cable at the rear drums is corroding and the cable is not releasing.. Pull the rear wheels off, soak the cable w/ some type of penetrating oil, wd-40, etc--DON'T get any on the drum or brake pads. If it's a front brake, it could be a bad caliper, or even the brake pad wear indicator( the wear indicator touches the rotor when the brake pads wear down to a certain point. This is a warning to replace the brake pads soon. Even though the brakes aren't on, the wear indicators sound like the brakes are dragging. Hope I didn't overload you w/ this explanation, just trying to cover all possibilities. Let me know if you have any questions, and what you find out is wrong. Good luck! countrycurt0