Question about 1995 Mitsubishi Galant

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1995 Galant won't start

I confiscated this car from an evicted tenant who left it, so I have no key. I unplugged the harness off the ignition switch & turn it with a screwdriver, & it turns over fine. It tried to start the first time, but now won't fire. I've replaced the plugs/distrubutor cap/rotor/wires, with no luck. I was told that distrubutors were a problem on this modeI, so I pulled the distributor, took it all down & didn't find any obvious problems. The timing belt is good and it is in time. It is getting fuel, just not firing. Could it have something to do with an "anti-theft" system that's causing it not to start? I've tried to get a key made at a dealership, but they've got to have title/registration info, which I don't have. The car has a 2.4 engine in it. Thanks for any help!

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  • Loringh
    Loringh May 11, 2010

    Couple of questions:
    How do you know it's getting fuel?

    Are you getting a spark at the plugs?

    I had the ignition switch replaced at a shop, with a new key. If you can get it to run that might be an option


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If it turn over, its not anything to do with the anti-theft system, neutral/safety switch or clutch switch. If your going to start it by pulling out the ignition switch and turning it with a screwdriver, remember that the steering wheel will lock if you try to turn. you can either drill out the tumblers from the key cylinder and turn it with a screwdriver or drill out the breakaway bolts that secure the wheel lock to the steering column.
First check for spark. if your getting spark, check the firing order.

1995 Galant won't start - f6be54f.jpg

the distributor houses a built in ignition coil and ignition power transistor. so if either goes bad you need to change the distributor. to check the coil measure the resistance between the two terminals of the distributor. it should be 0.9–1.2 ohms. then measure the resistance between the secondary ignition coil terminal on top of the distributor cap and each of the 2 pins. 20–29K ohms.f53ce6e.jpg


Posted on Oct 18, 2008

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In Pennsylvania can a landlord lock out a roomer?


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ALARM, CRUISE CONTROL, and STEREO Wiring Color Codes for 1995 Honda Civic This...


ALARM, CRUISE CONTROL, and STEREO Wiring Color Codes for 1995 Honda Civic



This FixYa Tip is for the purpose of installing an Alarm, Remote Starter, Cruise Control, and / or Car Stereo into the vehicle listed in the subject line.


The wires listed are the ones you will need to successfully complete the task.


Some vehicles require additional relays and / or modules to bypass factory security. If they are required - it will be in the NOTES section below the wiring colors.


The following FixYa TIP is good for all Honda Civics for the following production years:


1995





STEREO WIRING COLOR CHART:

Constant 12V+: Blue/White
Switched 12V+: Yellow/Red
Ground: Black
Illumination: Red/Black
Dimmer: n/a
Antenna: Driver's Pillar

Front Speakers:
Left Front (+) Blue/Green
Left Front (-) Gray/Black
Right Front (+) Red/Green
Right Front (-) Brown/Black

Rear Speakers:
Left Rear (+) Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) Gray/White
Right Rear (+) Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) Brown/White



NOTES: - none -

Additional Accessories:

Metra Brand Dash Kit: n/a
Metra Brand Wiring Harness: 70-1720
Metra Brand Antenna Adapter: n/a








ALARM / REMOTE START WIRING CHART:

Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness
Starter: Black/White - Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory: Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Tach: Blue - Distributor
Brake Switch: Green/White - Brake Switch
Trunk Pin: Green/Black - (-) Above Fuse Panel (Blue Connector)
Parking Lights: Red/Black - (+) Above Fuse Panel
Head Lamp: Red/White - Steering Column
Hood Pin: n/a
Door Trigger: Light Green/Red - (-) Driver's Running board
Door Lock: Green/White - (-) 2 pin connector taped to blue connector behind fuse box
Door Unlock: Green/Red - (-) Driver's Door at Door Lock Module
Horn: Blue - Steering Column (Relay Required)
Windows UP: LF=Red/Blue RF=Blue/Yellow
Windows DOWM: LF=Red/Yellow RF=Blue/Green


NOTES: - none -






CRUISE CONTROL:

Constant 12V+: White - Ignition Switch Harness or Use Hot Side of Brake
Switched 12V+: Black/Yellow - Ignition Switch Harness
Ground: Use Chassis Near Cruise Control Module
Hot Side of Brake: n/a - Brake Switch
Cold Side of Brake: Green/White - Brake Switch
Tach: Blue - Distributor
VSS Wire : Yellow/Blue - Driver's Side Dash Footwell, Grey connector.




NOTES: 4000PPM

Vehicles with Manual Transmission require Clutch Switch.
Some vehicles may require a speed signal generator and/or other parts/adapters not listed above.
Rostra® Cruise Control module switch settings may differ if you use a speed signal generator or magnets and a pick up coil.


Thanks for using FixYa!! Please see my other tips on GPS, Car Audio, Large Appliances, and more.

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Key won't come out of ignition on 1999 vw jetta


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It can be faulty ignition lock cylinder. I suggest to wiggle the steering wheel a bit and see if the key gets released out. If that is not helping then first turn steering wheel to right and try removing the key, or next turn steering wheel to left and see if you can remove the key.

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Spray wd-40 in the ignition key hole and let it remain there for few minutes, after that once again try to remove the key and see if that helps.

---------

But if that is not helping then ignition lock cylinder has to be removed out and key has to be manually removed.

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For more troubleshooting on these types of issues, I suggest you to refer the help links mentioned below. Its the accurate solutions mentioned in it. That will help you to narrow the problem: -----

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/2001-toyota-tacoma-ignition-locked.html

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.in/2012/04/ignition-switch-will-not-turn-off.html

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http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/03/ignition-key-off-but-engine-still.html

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http://whoisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/07/2012-dodge-ram-ignition-key-will-not.html

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