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Electronic or fly-by-wire throttle or accelerator system these days means there is no direct connection between the engine and throttle pedal.
The pedal is linked to a potentiometer by a short cable or linkage or it could even be a part of the pedal assembly. The engine ECU uses the potentiometer output to determine the pedal position and instructs a servo motor to open or close the throttle as required depending on inputs from other sensors.
The air mass metering unit is not part of the throttle, or at least I haven't seen one that is (so far). There are various methods of operation of the air mass metering unit but regardless of which type is used they are almost exclusively placed to measure the air entering the engine before it has been affected by the heat from the engine. That is usually in or near the air cleaner. Not all management systems have used an air mass metering unit and a few relied solely on a MAP sensor and other sensors.
The ambient air temperature sensor is often integrated into the air mass metering unit or placed close to it.
The throttle body or housing these days generally contains various sensors, motors or actuators and often also electronic circuitry to provide dedicated application correction for the air mass metering unit because the response or output of that unit is not linear.
Your code relates to throttle motor bank 1 circuit mallfunction, this can be caused either by a wiring fault, the throttle motor itself, or ECM the most common fault is the air flow meter also called air mass meter
You would need a fuel pressure gauge and the attachments to hook it into the fuel line before the injectors. You can spray carb cleaner into the throttle body to imitate the injectors, just don't spray it thru the mass air flow meter. Its possible the mass air flow meter was failing and your cleaning it finished the job. They are very precise components. There could be an air leak between the throttle body and the MAF meter. You could need a simple fuel filter too. If it will start on carb cleaner and the filter is good, you may have to get a book to troubleshoot the mass air flow meter.
Your description, I venture has a number of things misspelle by accident. "Jucking" Maybe "Jerking?" But you can drive "throw" as though" it is the air mass meter.
Keep in mind, I am not making fun of you, I have made my share of misspelled words and sentances which were a little confusing.
As for the mass air flow sensor, looking at technical service bulletins, there is one which pertains to the throttle position sensor, Air Idle Contril Valve and the Mass Air Flow Meter. They reference connections which need to be checked and insured that they are clean. These can cause a balk or hesitation and stumble. False air problems can also caise the same conditions. Look for vacuum leaks. The main hose which connects the air mass meter to the throttle body may have a crack or tear in it. As you apply throttle, the engine is going the jump and shift position a little. This can cause a small to massive air leak between the air mass sensor and the throttle body. Un metered air means poor performance.
If it idles up and down real high, its the throttle body sensor. If it's a low up and down idle and runs rough it is mass air flow meter. If you unplug the mass airflow meter and it will just low idle (no up & down) then the mass air flow meter is bad.
I would look at the air filter, if it wasn't replaced, If it's dirty replace it. Then check all the vacuum lines and hoses on the vehicle. A dirty enough filter or broken vacuum lines will pop a Mass air flow meter code. One other thing you can do is clean the mass air flow meter, use brake clean, do not use a brush on it. You can also clean in the throttle body as far as you can, open up the plate and clean behind it to, you can use a brush on this. When you clean the throttle it will take a few seconds to start the car. Try this first. MAF meters do get contaminated and will mess up the performance of cars.
mass air flow meter uses the tps for referance. if tps is off it can cause a mass code to set. also check throttle body and clean if needed.also make sure mass in installed in correct position. check arrow on mass for direction and clamps are tight.
yes their is a way to replace the mass air flow. Get a can of brake clean or throttle cleaner, throttle cleaner is going to work best. remove the until and spray it down with throttle clean, let it dry for about 15 min. and reinstall it.
Now a little warning for you, IF their is no visual damage to the mass air flow then you can do this successfully. Now the reason why I always replace them instead of spraying them down is because is MOST cases the mass air flow will start acting up again. Sometimes it takes a weeks, sometimes months, sometimes years its hard to say.
But the worst you have to loose, is it doenst work an your out 5 bucks for the can of fluid.
Try to unplug the mass air flow meter. The mass air flow meter is atached to the air filter housing on the left of the engine bay at the front edge (left side when sitting in the drivers seat). It will be a somewhat flat 5 or 6 pin connector that mounts to the air box on one side and goes to the black air intake tube that goes down to the back of the engine.
Do it with the key off of course. With the mass air flow meter unplugged start the car and see if it will idle. if it does the mass air flow meter is bad. If the car will still not run then there is a good chance the Eletronic Throttle Module (ETM) is failing. The ETM is under an extended waranty from Volvo for 10 years or 200,000 miles.
I would suggest taking it to a garage or directly to the dealer.
Of course there are numerous other things it could be, but the Mass Air Flow Meter and the ETM are the most likely.